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About this blog

A DIY blog dedicated for those whose believe the journey is more interesting than the destination.

Entries in this blog

 

Phone holder - Part Trois

Previous versions were unnecessarily complicated.  This version is simple.  The wall is now wider and thinner - more flexible for mounting.     file is here:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3531308
 

45 hr and 58 min

I came across an opportunity to purchase a larger 3D printer at a significant discount.  Went for it.   The size of the new printer allows me to attempt modeling the grille with its various surfaces, planes and splines. 45 hours and 58 minutes of printing.     Voila.   Side by side.   Fit check.  
 

Phone holder - Part deux

So, I dropped my phone a few weeks ago.  It was damaged beyond repair.  My new phone now wears an "impact resistance" case that is pretty hefty being mostly rubber.  The previous phone holder will not hold something this big....   Below is the new design with articulating arms.  The weight of the phone causes the bottom of the slider to move down, pulling the two arms up to hold on to the phone.  A spring pulls the slider up when the phone is removed.  Current design will hold phones u

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

If at first you don't succeed

Started out with the vague notion to make a phone holder.  I already have a design for a clip to hook on to the lip of the dash from another project.  So, how hard can it be?     Modeling this guy was straight forward. The piece tilts up and in toward the driver.   After 14 hrs of printing, I was rewarded with this mess.  It turned out that the part printed as one piece was not did not have all the printed layers in the ideal alignment to take any amount of mechanic

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

Ti clock tribute

The Ti clock is a rare thing.  It is essentially a Tii clock; but, with the chrome bezel and the script Kienzle.  A faq member was looking for one...   I have a look-a-like clock.  It has the klunk-tic-tic movement, the chrome bezel and the script Kienzle.  However, it did not have the correct wire harness, the shroud and the mounting hardware.   The shroud was modeled and 3D printed.  The thumbnut was also modeled and 3D printed.  I added the extra large chamfer to help

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

Ebony or Cocobolo?

Bought some enamel key chains from the auction site. Trimmed off the chain Made the threaded insert on my little lathe Voila.  

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

DIY evaporator

Last winter project.   Bought this evaporator:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HGJCYDE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Expansion valve:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2003-2004-Ford-Expedition-A-C-Expansion-Valve-Rear-47398ZB-Expansion-Valve-/292766864272?hash=item442a43d390 Fabricated the sheet metal.  The vent was salvaged from a Behr unit.  Fans was a largest SPAL pusher that could be fitted into the available space (5.2").  Added a PWM fan controll

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

Dual Extruders

Modeling and testing 3D printing with dual extruders (one for each color).  Multiple fails until end of day yesterday.  Still have a way to go.  

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

Busted

So, I've posted some of my 3D models up to Thingiverse.  One of them is "under moderation".  Bummer.  Will not be uploading files any time soon.   

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

3D printed bits

I made a horn pad for my Petri wheel some time ago.  Did not have the means to make the hardware bits to fasten it to the wheel.  Finally have the tools and the means to do so thanks to my CL purchased 3D printer and Solidworks.  I am still an absolute novice with these two tools.  But, it's amazing what YouTube, sheer stubborness and hours of trials and errors will do...  The grey bits are threaded inserts for the pad.  The white screws were printed from flexible plastic.    

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

I've never left.

So, I've tried a number of things and still could not reproduce the turn signal lens to any degree of satisfaction and had been chewing on this project.   I recently acquired a 3D printer off the local CL.  This new to me tool allows for certain possibilities.  I had the lens and the frame scanned.  Then, I attempted to print some samples.  Mind you, I still do not know what I am doing with the 3D printer.     As scanned, the plastic lens does not fit into the frame.  Once freed from t

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

I could not wait

I got home today and the transparent UV resistant amber spray paint was there!  It arrived days before I had expected.  Dropped everything and rigged up a quick test on a scrap lens.  The paint was more diffused and less transparent than I would like, but, it looked okay.  So, there it is.  

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

The Cajun two steps

I set out trying to do a diy project to convert the US turn signal assemblies to Euro style turn signal assemblies.  This has been done before by others.  However, I wanted to accomplish the following:   1)  In the original design, the lens were first molded then heat formed to conform the plastic lens to the lens frame both from outside and the inside.  This is as good a seal that can be made between plastic and metal.  Obviously, my diy project can not completely follow the original

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

So close....

I ran out of materials to continue experimenting with the lens.  So, I ordered more stuff and the lens project will have to wait.  Naturally, I started to look at the US bracket to see if it can be converted.  (I am sure this has been done before, but, I've got to do it my way.)   The challenges:  1)  Once the US lens is removed and is replaced with the euro style lens, the lamp socket and reflector stick out and will need to be moved in.  2)  There is no room for the bracket to move f

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

My hare brained idea

So, I have an idea, hare brained, but an idea none the less.   The goal is to duplicate the curved surface of the lens in a female mold so that the heated/softened plastic lens can be pressed and cooled/frozen to shape consistently.  Without a 3D model, the only available option is to make a mold from the real part itself.  I tried different ways to do this and failed miserably.  The main problem was that the clay/putty material I used kept sticking to the assembly itself and could not

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

Routing the flat lens on the CNC

While waiting for the polyurethane to dry, and for something to pop in my head as to how to form the female molds, I decided to cut some 1/8" polycarbonate.  Up until now, I have been using PETG and acrylic.  They both have their pros and cons.  Polycarbonate is likely better for the signal lens application.  It is stronger, much less likely to crack, much stronger against harsh chemicals...  So, got to test it out.  Right off the bat, my plastic router bit broke!  I had to slow the feed rate of

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

Making the molds

Once the thermoformed pieces cooled off, I traced the outlines of the lenses and cut them out.  Even though these pieces were only 1/32" thick, they were sufficiently stiff to use as templates to help me judged and tweaked the wooden molds.  The concave curves proved to be very difficult to duplicate with a wood rasp.  Then, it occurred to me to lather up wood filler onto the molds, cut up an old Visa to match the curve on the lens, use the curve Visa card to shape the wood filler very much like

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903

 

Copying the shape of the euro turn signal lens

I've been trying to make a pair of wooden molds to form the lens.   They were close, but, not good enough.  After thinking about it, I decided to use the actual assemblies to make the molds themselves.   I already built the vaccuum table from another project.  For this purpose, I use some 1/32" PETG plastic sheet stock.  The sheet is held in place using a wooden frame.  The pocket knife happened to be the correct height to support the lens assembly.  I also rigged up a space heater to

Tsingtao_1903

Tsingtao_1903



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