So I dropped the rear subframe out of the car over the holiday:
I needed to install the IE Stage I rear swaybar. Why drop the whole subframe for this? Well....the subframe on the car has no provisions for swaybars.
I managed to find a subframe on ebay that was both a long neck diff subframe AND had the swaybar mounts. I only had to pay $6 for it....and another $40 for shipping!
With that part of the problem solved, we move onto the next: no swaybar mounts on the trailing arms.
Well, for that we have the brackets PN 33553628130, ordered from bavauto:
I installed the swaybar, and installed the drop links shorted up as far as they go, then lined up the above brackets on the swingarms (after cleaning things up a bit with the wheel)
The only trouble is...the come in at what I think is a odd angle....shouldnt they be as straight on as possible?
I propped up the swingarms to simulate the suspension geometry close to what it would be with car sitting on the ground...its close, but It needs a bit more work I think....I was referencing this thread for my set up
I installed the residual pressure regulator to the rear brakes....fits in nicely.
Then I moved onto the engine...from a bare block to 75% done in two days. I had it decked & honed, then a paint job.
Balanced crankshaft, straightened rods. No need for a regrind My machine shop gave it the thumbs up, and my own plastigauge check gives it the thumbs up. Standard size bearings.
Cylinder head on...the head was resurfaced, and got a valve job.
I moved onto the Getrag 245, getting it prepped for its eventual install. First, I cut & welded the shift platform. Then I fabbed up a shift plate support bracket that drops its pick up point just enough so I did not have to cut and weld the support bracket as well....It just bolted it in.
Tomorrow I hope to complete the engine, and drop it on the subframe over the weekend. That's all for now!
I got the side of engine bay repainted, and some components installed....the pedal box, new aftermarket remote brake booster, and brake lines. I left out the residual pressure valve, as there was no way to fit the original one in. I might add one in...just wondering if I actually need it for the rear brake line?
With the pedal box done, I have built up the sub frame
then....I had to rectify the great brake fluid disaster that occurred at some point in the cars past.
Some work with the flap disc and wire wheel have brought me to this point
More paint/surface rust removal is needed...but I am totally new at this....we'll see how it goes. I am not sure how to get in this seam area, or if I even can
I modified the pedal box. I wound of cutting off the brake MC mounting "rail", and made a new one. After much of tack weld-fit check-break tack weld and relocate then tack weld again and fit check, I arrived at what I think is the ideal condition which comprises:
Maintaining as close as possible the stock brake pedal ratio
The Brake MC clearing the steering arm
The clutch MC clearing the frame rail.
Ease R&R of both the clutch and brake MC's
Results: (there is more clearance then the picture leads to believe there is...but not much)
Well....crap. The steering does indeed hit the brake MC and mounting "rail". All is not lost; I can still shove the MC in, and cut off a section of the mounting rail. I will probably also have to grind off the nub on the steering arm
So I decided to go with a 5 speed while the engine and trans is out. First problem...the car has a mech. clutch. I could have opted with just swapping in an 02 pedal box, booster and all associated components...but I decided I like the compact nature of the remote brake booster, so I went a different direction. First, I cut this out of the back of the pedal box.
Then I welded in some 1/8" mild steel plate.
Space here is TIGHT to fit in 2X master cylinders. I have been wrestling with the E21 MC....but the horizontal mounting flanges make it too damn big.
So I found this Wilwood tandem unit..5/8" dia., 1.3" stroke. Its a tad small, but I think it will be fine for my stock 1600 brakes. However, it has issues.
So I decided to ditch Wilwood's pushrod, and put the 1600 pushrod in. Just a little modification was needed. The retaining washer for the stock pushrod was too large....it needed about 0.04" taken off around its diameter to fit in the bore of the Wilwood cylinder
Viola....it fit right in
So, with the ever-expanding scope of work (sound familiar?) on my 1600-2..I decided I might as well start a project blog about it...so, here is where we stand:
This is where the car has been since June 8th of this year....see http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/167002-when-it-rains-it-pours-wall-of-text-inside/?hl=%2Bwhen+%2Brains#entry1047565 for how it wound up here