Hi everyone - a few entries ago I appeared on this site - I think it was on the way home with this car behind me. I asked hey - why does this car have Dual Dellortos? Well now I know a bit more - they are rev. C and they were NOT rebuilt like the PO said so. 🙂 Well there are a lot more of those said so's but hey I am having a blast.
Here is what I knew when I bought it.
Interior had some Recarro seats on cool chrome mounts and the fabric matched the back seats - wasnt that bad of shape
My fit-up number umpteen - going well. front to rear location, shock tower location, floor pan location all good. getting ready to plug weld all the holes from drilling out the previous brake fluid rotted rail. Once those are plugged I plan to fit in the rail once more and weld it in. Nice working with such a solid California car - no rust in the pan or any other portions along this mount up. I would say the most difficult fit area was here where the fire wall meets the floor pan and the ne
Hi All - I need to shop for a set of pistons for this engine. it is a 1mm oversize bore with a 121 head that has the intakes increased to the same as an E12 head. I hope to get my sidedraft dellortos running on this combo. Suggestions?
Today I removed the fenders to check and see how bad the rust is on the pillar. Not Bad!!! Great news.
I was pretty anxious to tackle the leaded joint up front. I mean I have taken so many fenders off cars - dodge dart, plymouth valliant, vw Bug, (never a ghia though) and NONE of them had a leaded joint!
OK so I started there first. ground off the paint to see only shiny metal - got out a pic and sure enough it was soft.
Then I got out the h
Hey all -
I finally chose a body shop for my project.
G & M in San Bruno, CA- competitive pricing and some expert references and a super clean and efficient body shop.
And today the owner gave me that dreaded first call! Not so bad! Just need to get some more patch panels from W&N!
So good news for sure. I hope things move along faster than quoted - 6 mos.
Getting my car ready for paint. Thanks to Bart at TheRestoShop for recommending Tom at O2again for a dolly. Hats off to [email protected] O2again for the plans to make my dolly! All went well! Thanks Tom!!!
-got the plans
-ordered the materials from McMaster
-without the hard tooling I did some improvising too 🙂.
-done in a weekend - and a bonus- pulled the rear subframe...
-started the stripping down to bare shell for paint!
Hey all - looking good. You can see the W&N patch panels for the outer wheel wells are clamped in - they are waiting for the inners from me.
The dent in passenger door is removed.
Drivers door sanded and primed.
Drivers rear QP waiting for patch panel inner and outer. Rear panel sanded and my patch panel finished by the pro's.
Hood and Deck Lid sanding away the old paint to bare m
Hi Folks - just getting the hang of this blog process. Here is the before shot...
And the after shot
New motor - but the old one still works. Rebuilt heater core - San Jose Radiator. New grommets, new foam, cracks epoxied, sex bolts to replace the rivets, rebuilt valve (new oring) and valve mounting bracket. Could not have done it without my Dremel - first Dremel I ever owned!
OK so when I built the engine the first time I assembled the flywheel and noticed serious runout. Came to find out the flywheel was machined on a table that was not calibrated and yes it was seriously out by about 8 thousandths. So I re-machined it and finished the engine build. All was good except I had this nagging feeling that perhaps the crank was wrong too? The engine idled roughly but at high rev. it screamed.
So....when Covid came I figured time to tear down the engine and
Tackling the bottom of the spare tire well. Several spots of rust... Circled with a marker.
So... had to fabricate sheetmetal with a groove pressed in for rigidity. I've got a lot to go in terms of shaping and cutting to size but wanted to post the first day of effort here.
Had a blast dreaming this process up. I used my arbor press, routered out piece of plywood and a piece of hardwood as the press. Came out pretty well.
Since I am getting brave on the exterior I decided to open up the next can of worms. The quarter-panel. Besides W&N is having a sale!
This was my first quarter on this car and I had no idea what I was getting into - could not really tell from inside what was behind it - and the manual was vague to me too- just some vague ideas from a guy named Barney and his Ceylon in the FAQ. Thanks Barney!!! 🙂
So I went for it. What you see here is me cutting open the rusty panel and find
Previous owner poked holes in the tunnel to get wires through i guess. I just do not see the wisdom and did not want the fumes / sound in the cabin. Tried a trick I saw during my umpteen thousand test welds during my covid welding course. It worked! Butt welds are tough for sure. You make a piece to fit over the hole and tack it on. Then you take your trusty Dremmel thin cut blade and cut around the edge of your piece and push your piece in and tack it in flush.
Not a great
I am moving from bit to bit on the car shell these days. Getting ready to roll it out for paint. When I bought the car five years ago a friend pointed out how the exhaust was not correct. I was a bit miffed since I did not know that about the car.
Well in a quick effort last night I started to pick at it and noticed the patch was brazed in!
So with a little heat and a pair of pliers - off it came!
Here it is removed.
moving along this is to show the inner panel needed patching.
Here are the panels from W&N - .0277 thick. p/n A41 35 1 855 113
Hood looks great... down to the metal
Rear deck needed a bit more effort - was hard to close due to latch not properly tensioned - PO must have slammed his hands down on it one to many times
Rear panel looking good too! Removed a bunch of extra bondo from PO
This weekend I tackled what no sane person would ever do. I removed the tar undercoat by the previous owner (the carpet in the cover shot is long gone) from the inside of my trunk! Used Lacquer Thinner and Adhesive Remover and a plastic putty knife with much luck. VERY pleased to report very little body work underneath. Good news for when we strip the car - now I can have the trunk shot too.
When I get more braver I will tackle the rust on the fenders - not much but a few spots
Moving on to the other few spots of rust on the car - this one was under the heater box. Was a fun project - took about 3 hours. Notice the rust gets worse as you go from left to right - I replaced the entire section to remove all the rust. Those two cut holes are from air conditioning I removed. Yes it is time for a new fuel line and vent line.
Here is the piece of metal I fabricated and welded in. The butt welds are by far the hardest. The Rosettes are easy.
Now that the dolly is on I am stripping the car down to the shell to ready for paint. Most everything is off the car now. Struggled more than I would like to get that chrome off the doors by the glass. Some minor (I hope) rust spots and then to the paint shop for some 2 stage (?) Agave! This car was sprayed once with Agave darkened a bit. I will bring to original Agave. Have not found any bondo but I know there is some here and there.
A tricky rust spot under the left rear
OK so it is time to "catch up" a bit here. COVID 19 has kept me busy with my BMW - aka "the occupier". Been sitting for five years after I "got it running" with a lot of necessary parts - The Engine, The Brakes, The Shocks, The Electrical and The Fuel.
Was good but it was kinda like that first and second date. She needed a lot of work.
I sold my 1972 Karmann Ghia Convertible to pay for the BMW Project ... and yes I do miss my Ghia dearly.
So where I am n