Our community blogs

  1. adawil2002
    Latest Entry

    After another winter at the VSR Spa, Vern is back home again. Newly chromed bumpers, completely restored vent window frames, new carpet, restored and rebuilt seats, modified wiper system with intermittent delay, paint retouched and looking better than ever.


    Dropped off Athena, who developed a stumble along the way, which will be addressed...I do not care for her original distributor with points! 


    Chris Langsten followed me as we sped along at a rapid pace on NH 101. In fact I set a new record from VSR to Ricetta’s Falmouth 1:20. Usually 1:35.



  2. A bunch of pictures to update everything. Also sorted almost all the wiring in the car and should be going back together in the next week or two. 












  3. We've been hard at work (and having a lot of fun) developing new "period correct / vintage" motorsport products for the 2002 community!


    Our new cast aluminum dead pedals are designed specifically for the BMW 2002 (tread design matches OEM accelerator pedal) and help to aid in driver comfort and access to clutch pedal while driving aggressively, on and off track.

    The upper mounting holes lock under factory underdash panel tab, (drilling optional) lower mounting holes require two 3/32” holes drilled in floor pan. (to install two #8 sheet metal screws, provided) choice of three finish options: raw/tumbled cast aluminum, satin black powder coat and satin black powder coat with brushed KoogleWerks logo.






  4. TESORO’s trunk is nice and tidy in preparation for the Bay Area 02 swap and show in Brisbane, CA on May 4th. I am ecstatic over this brilliant fuel filler design by Kooglewerks ! No more contorting myself in fear of gas burping up onto the paint! 😉

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  5. Ken Sears

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    The wiring is sorted with everything removed that I don't need (I hope.)  I need to tie in all the new components before wrapping it up.  Headliner in, not perfect but I am happy with it.  I will start putting in the our 2002 Underground parts soon.   






  6. It seems like every project meets some sort of random parts wall at some point. That is to say, you end up waiting for ages for parts to arrive, things are difficult to source, or you end up with the wrong parts entirely. That has been the case for the last few weeks for me. I’ll try to tackle things in order and get everyone up to speed. 

    So you may remember last year I bought a beefier version of the radiator I currently had in the car. This was in an effort to keep the poor 2002 a little cooler in the hot summer months. However once we started going down the rabbit hole of shaved bay, and systems deletes, that radiator became non-viable. I also purchased a Radium Expansion Tank, that is likewise useless. The part itself is great, but for my purposes needlessly complicated. 



    Purchased, assembled and immediate regret. Not using this wonderful piece anymore.


    The solution? Capped radiator. Since I am deleting the heater, the expansion tank loop becomes a bit redundant. Some measuring and scrolling through Summit later, and I found this unit. I couldn’t tell you what car it normally lives on, but I can tell you it fits perfectly between the frame rails of a 2002.




    I also ordered an M20 header flange, because we decided to make a header from scratch. Off the shelf options for M20s simply don’t clear the 2002 steering linkage. Problem one, no one in the US seems to still make this flange. Problem two, after finding an international company who makes a flange, it took ages to arrive from Bulgaria. Problem three, it was warped to hell. I don’t want to put the company on blast, but it is frustrating to wait all that time for a fairly ruined piece. 




    On a more positive note, my wiring harness came back from modifications. At it’s core, it’s mostly my stock E30 wiring harness, however it’s been freshened up, reloomed, and most importantly modified for my standalone. I’ll be running an ECUmasters EMU Classic, and the plugs have been swapped out to accommodate ECUmasters sensors and ECU. I also had a few areas extended to help with the tucking plans. 






    Now onto the physical car itself. My fabricator has been working on the radiator support. Now that he has the right radiator in, he cut a pretty sizable chunk out of the bottom of the nose to sink the radiator into the chassis. He also finished cutting the shock towers flush and welding the seams. 






    You may notice a bar peaking in the edge of those photos. Progress has started on the radiator support. This will put some sort of structural piece back into the nose. For my car, this will double as the radiator mount, hood mount, oil cooler mount and so on. Additionally, and perhaps needlessly complicating things, it will be removable. I will be able to unbolt this bar from the car if necessary. The fabricator bent it to fit the nose of my car, and cut out some end plates to start the process of fitting it. 




    Hopefully within the next week or two the radiator support will be all welded up and ready to go. We’ll be adding ducting, and some vanity panels to help hide this all as well. I’m also now looking into just painting the whole car. I realize this is another jump in project scale, but it’s going to be so close to being perfect for me after this stage, that paint would just be the icing on the cake. I’ll have to figure out how that will work exactly, but it’s something I really want to finally tackle.

  7. Been at the fabricators for three months, total re-work of front suspension/steering.  Major, major work.  More pics to follow.




  8. Previous versions were unnecessarily complicated.  This version is simple.  The wall is now wider and thinner - more flexible for mounting.  



    file is here:

  9. Another 2002 came my way that I could not say no too! Its a 1974 2002tii. Definitely has its issues including rust, however there is a lot going for it as well. bilstien shocks, H&R springs, poly bushings, five speed and strut braces are a plus. Some of you might have followed my M42 2002 Build a few years back. This car is getting different treatment. I have only a limited amount of time to get it on the road and am embracing the “patina” look so to speak. Anyway, here is a short video of my progress so far.











  10. One of the many projects that I’ve been dreading on this car is replacing the trunk floor. Not just the part aft of the wheel wells, I mean the entire trunk floor. When I bought the car the gas tank was about the only thing holding the center of the trunk floor up. The brace down the center of the floor was no longer attached to the floor. There was no bottom to the spare tire well and the quarter panels were the only things keeping the tail panel attached to the car. I’d cut the main portion of the floor and the tail panel off a few yrs ago. The other day I finally cut the panel away from between the whee houses and fitted the replacement from the parts car. 










    Somewhere just before that I saw an ad here for some Compomotives... 13x6 and 13x8s. I had to have them. 



    This pic shows :far right 165r13, 185/70/13, my new rears 205/50/13, and far left my new fronts 185/60/13s. I’m gonna have to really lower this bad boy to make these look right. 



    I made a new throttle pedal base using the longest m10 ball studs from McMaster Carr and a scrap of metal cut to mimic an original. It’s gonna work great. 




    In order to move the car I figured I better get a seat installed. You may recall that I bought some seats from an ‘84 Ford Mustang SVO. It’s not in its final position (too low and it needs the front tipped up for better thigh support), but at least I’ve got somewhere to sit now. I removed the bmw mounting flanges and will use the Ford rails and custom frames to get elevation and slope that I’m after. 




    The spare tire well kit arrived from Jaymic. I haven’t decided if I’ll add a band to it for a wider spare, or if I’ll leave it as is and get a space saver spare from a mini or similar. 




    I started cleaning up the rest of the trunk floor from the donor. Tons of work still to do, but it was nice to see something in the hole even though it was just clamped in place. 










  11.  First of all,  thanks to all of those who have supported me through this project.  It has been fun and challenging, but not being able to leave well enough alone, I have embarked on incorporating the timing function of the Sniper EFI into my build.   What am I hoping to achieve by this... no clue.. if I were forced to give a reason... I guess I would say because it was there,  and life is too short to ponder things that satisfy your curiosity. 


    So after consulting a lot of people, and getting quite a bit of apparently conflicting advice, I think I figured out the answer to a long-standing question.  Why can't I use the dizzy and fool the EFI into thinking it was a crank trigger.   In short, I can emulate the signal or the spark distribution, but not both.  


    A longer explanation is that you need to give the EFI enough warning in order to trigger the ignition based on your timing table.   This is a critical angle, and the dizzy can't tell the Sniper when to trigger.  And I quote from the manual. 


    "Once these steps are completed, the rotor will be pointing to the cylinder #1 terminal on the distributor cap (ensure the engine is still at 50 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1). Note which position this is on the distributor cap."


    So this 50-degree angle means that the system gets an idea where the crank is ahead of the trigger event and can do what it needs to do, then trigger the MSD to fire, all this while making sure that the dizzy is pointing in the right cyl. 


    I hope that makes sense. 


    Here is an article that helps explain this perhaps a little better. 



    Crank Pulley Design 


    I consulted Tom at 02Again, and he is providing a hub,  2 pulleys (one for the accessories and one for A/C) and a trigger mount (which I will have to mod a bit).   The trick is to get it all packed in a relatively small space.    This is the unit built for an EDIS based system (this type of system has a different wheel design), which is incompatible with the Sniper EFI, but taking the parts from it will allow me to sandwich a fabricated "flying Magnet" style of  trigger wheel between the pulleys for the accessories and A/C . 





    I may have to modify this a bit because my trigger wheel may sit slightly closer or farther away from the front pulley, but all in all, I think I am about 80% of the way there. 




    Parts arrived








    Here is a video of AMT machine shop where I get my stuff done.   A great resource for those folks who live in Vancouver CA. 





    And instagram



    Ok so I finally programmed the timing curve into the Sniper.   The interesting thing is that the 123 doesn't change vac advance under 2000 RPM whereas the Sniper EFI will.  The crank wheel is done.  Pictures to come. 






    Here is the finished pulley and sensor holder. 









  12. Roundeie
    Latest Entry

    Got the sunroof back in with a bit of trial and error. Fit is ok just a slight passenger side height difference.



    Also installed heater box and dash. Mocked in the gauge cluster to fill the hole. It will be removed before permanent installation.



    Added H4's w/city lights and a relay/fuse harness. Will install the driving light brackets when they arrive. Thanks, Pierre.


  13. Djthom
    Latest Entry

    With spring approaching and with just a few trim bits left to be completed, I'm looking forward to seeing a lot more of the top than the bottom.  But here are some pics before it comes down off the lift for spring.  












  14. ohgodno
    Latest Entry

    This happened over the course of a bunch of months. It's all the metalwork to the floor pans and trunk area.


    First, we removed all the sound deadening from the floors and then the cutting began. The car got three floor pans replaced with new metal, one patch we had to fabricate for the rear seat shelf, then patches on the front inner wings, and finally a few outer rocker panel patches — the inners were solid, rust treated, painted and then sealed up.


    The undercoating was stripped from the underside then sandblasted - and treated with POR15 (cleaner, zinc phosphate metal-prep, then POR15), the same for the inner panels of the floor. Then hit it all with seam sealer.


    Then we moved on to the trunk - the spare tire well was shot. We cut it out and decided to mount the spare UNDER the car like a truck (hell yes). fabricated it up, welded it in, then moved on to the gas tank surround.


    It had been poorly patched in the past, and we discovered all kinds of rot underneath it. So like everything, cut it out, sandblast it, make a new piece, weld it in, POR15, seam sealer.














  15. Last year, I bought a beautiful set of E21 Recaro seats and mathcing rear seat covers for the Chamonix '02.  Since this is the sportier my two '02 cars and it had the old-style marshmallow wide headrest seats, it made sense to install them in this one.  They look A-MAZ-ING!   Although the seats are the same height as the old seats, they are much more firm so you end up sitting about 2 inches higher than before.  That's going to take some getting used to.  I will not be cutting into the seat mounts to lower these seats.  Anybody have any other suggestions?      



  16. So its been a while since I've added anything to the blog. The car was finished in October. Just in time for winter in Ireland. With crappy weather and salted roads here, I've only managed 200 miles in 5 months. Though the weather is finally starting to get better and the car is finally being driven!


    The car was lucky enough to be featured on the cover of Retro Classics magazine. (Irish car mag)


    I plan to take it to plenty of shows this summer. First show is this weekend, me and my dad are taking the car over the Irish Sea to the Practical Classics Magazine show at the NEC centre in Birmingham, England. The car will be featured at the BMW Car Club GB stand.


    The car is driving great though there's a few niggles to sort out before the long drive, including its running in service. image1.jpeg.b4f7cda0f21d44750cf82623db9a29da.jpeg19rZNpwPTla8Qyc8IZyoLw.thumb.jpg.a458e814db7f8faf4f32f73d4d56e1d1.jpgIMG_1892.thumb.JPG.4c21c9e08d1c1a5f0f9ba5eb5b7a63aa.JPGIMG_1893.thumb.JPG.fc155122725e95cefa79a362c5c009cd.JPGIMG_1895.thumb.JPG.83df2c558427929236ba57d8ba82ef56.JPG166040658_NspRQXRIQuAtSCoITqiWA.thumb.jpg.598cbc29ef1eec2d0f78bf8419fb044e.jpgfullsizeoutput_3dc1.thumb.jpeg.986ccc7a39fc86ab08c2ac18da18f74c.jpegIMG_5015.thumb.jpeg.80b6548c0d1cf8168fd72b60bf8e0532.jpegIMG_2633.thumb.JPG.080ebef1e717bce9b9b84dcc0b547dee.JPG1083856653_mwdjecEER9CZVWnqCczDw.thumb.jpg.2da6286128c58fe35ae6c50bf04fd7a8.jpgIMG_1896.thumb.JPG.99e6ad495258c851f791704520fb6778.JPG



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    Subframe nearly complete. After replacing the brakes, she should be set to get bolted back on. Can't wait to get her back on the road!


    R&R'ed mostly everything:

    • Diff rebuilt with new bearings
    • CV joints re-packed
    • New half shafts & hubs
    • Wheel bearings
    • All bushings & hardware
    • Sandblasted & POR-15 frame


    Before and after:





    Rebuilding the diff was probably the most difficult / nerve-wracking. Removing/reinstalling all the bearings was definitely a learning experience. The upside is that I have a shiny new shop press. :)


    The wheel nuts were giving me nightmares based on all the posts here, but a long stretch of angle iron and this bad boy made it a pretty easy job to get to 280 lb/ft of torque.




  17. Hey just a short post, the car came back from the soda blaster and we moved so that kind of delayed the process. 


    First of all some photos of the soda blasting process: 




    So that's that, pretty satisfied with the results and the one new door. 

    Now I'll be needing to do some more patches and body work I'm afraid, as the lines are not completely right. 


    Here you can see the tailgate lines not matching with the other lines of the car, just as the tailgate itself's not fitting right. I also think, just like the soda blaster told me, that the car might got hit on the rear left sight ever. 




    So I started working on this today and it went pretty good actually, the lines as well as the panel gap got fixed in combination with the tailgate. 




    Now I'll have to finish some other lines and sheet metal. But I guess that'll be all for now, ongoing project... Keep you updated!


    Cheers, JP

  18. It's been a while since my last post.  I have made progress it has just been extremely slow going.  To go forward you have to go backwards.  That means the engine out...again.IMG_6885.thumb.jpg.3ec368e321aacbbae588361f25ce3587.jpg

    Dropped from above, not too scary.


    Still not high enough...getting sketchy.


    Its Free!


    And I can breath again.  With the engine out of the way i finished up brake lines and fuel hard lines. 


    Not too bad looking of an engine compartment. Now time to add in the rats nest of speedway harness...


    I moved the battery to the trunk and made a new mount for it.  I might have oversized the battery a little...


    After two orders the correct clutch finally arrived and the engine is ready to go back to its home!2019-03-03.jpg.1925cfc5a94c7555a906ddae0c68606f.jpg

    After years of hoping a turbo finally materialized from work...A lovely GT2867 ball bearing with a small turbine stage.  This will be stage two.  It will spool IMMEDIATELY with the 2.4L ecotec.  I will get it running NA first, but turbo will probably be next winter's project.



  19. Repaired the front subframe by welding in reinforcement plates--one for the driver's side motor mount (which was cracked), and the other for the center bottom of the subframe (which was all bent up from car jack use). Also fixed a bent and broken tow eye; we're guessing they were both bent inwards when connected with a tow strap. Many thanks to Ken Calardo for the welding! Video here.


    Disassembling the steering box required the use of a pneumatic pickle fork to hammer off the pitman arm. Then, while trying to remove the two seals, I was (unintentionally) trying to tear apart the seals instead of removing them; oops. I had read about the metal inside the seals and had removed those—but I had removed only the springs, not the frames. Once I understood this, I simply yanked the seals out with Vise-Grips. Now on to the soaking and cleaning of all of the bits…













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    About this blog


    This is my first blog. Last May (believe it or not) I decided to drop my rear subframe and rehab everything. I didn't fully understand the scope of the project or what a rite of passage it would be. I used cyclopticgaze's series of articles as a reference. Right away I realized there were a couple of rust problems that had to be overcome.


    Peterman here on the FAQ helped me out by welding in new upper spring perches while Steve at Blunt hooked me up with a used pair of trailing arms with sound lower spring perches.


    I had the rear subframe and trailing arms media blasted and then used POR15 on them.


    The first project was new rear wheel bearings. For some reason my hubs were extremely tight on the stub axles. I had to take one to a machine shop because I couldn't pull it. Even after they were off, they were very difficult to get back on the axles. I bought a bearing driver set and a 4 pound hammer to get the old wheel bearings out and the new ones in. My 16 oz. craftsman claw hammer wasn't going to cut it. The bearing drivers are aluminum so you don't damage the bearings while hammering them in. The bearings are then greased. The spacers go between the two bearings in each trailing arm. New seals cover the bearings.



    Next up were the 4 CV joints. Like most aspects of this project, I had no previous experience with CV joints, but managed to clean them out with brake cleaner, pack new grease in, and fit them back on the repainted axles. The boot clamps I had required a special pair of pliers (called boot clamp pliers, appropriately enough) to cinch the metal bands down tight. (Cyclopticgaze's rear subframe article has a link to a great piece on redoing CV joints.)



    Next I had to show my stock differential some love. I cleaned it up, installed new side oil seals, and used RTV for the cover gasket per mlytle's excellent rear diff article on the FAQ. I also gave it a quick paint job (with very little prep.) New Red Line lube too.



    Getting there. S&T Sway Bar. Cunifer brake lines from AceAndrew. Polyurethane trailing arm bushings and rear mount bushings. New rubber subframe bushings from Blunt with polyurethane inserts. Most hardware new from Blunt although some of the original bolts, etc cleaned up really well with EvapoRust. The rear subframe mounts have metal inserts that must be cut out before you can put the new bushings in. I rented a transmission jack from Sunbelt rentals. $35 per day and I only needed one day. I would highly recommend the transmission jack rental for lifting the subframe back into place.


    Bilstein HD shocks. H&R Springs.



    I'm experimenting with an aluminum strut spacer in the rear to increase rear ride height. I may end up removing it if I don't like it . The zipties to hold the spring rubbers on is an idea from cyclopticgaze that seems to work well. (The shiny black paint is POR15 covering rust repair sections welded in.)


    New wheel cylinders and brake shoes. My first exposure to inserting the W-shaped spring was today. They are IN!


    Here are some tools I recently bought that I never felt I needed in over 40 years of working on cars. I highly recommend you find these tools if you're redoing your rear subframe. The previously-mentioned 4 pound hammer and bearing driver set, a seal puller, and the boot clamp pliers (middle bottom). The needle nose vice-grips are great for brake springs.


    Thanks for reading! Next up is the front end....

  20. Magoo
    Latest Entry

    I had a rim wish list and patience has paid off. Some nice SSR reverse mesh 3 pce. These guys are in 15x7.5 -5 offset, so some nice dish 🤘🤘





  21. NYNick
    Latest Entry

    The last few months I needed to finish up the car and get it watertight to ship off to the shop for the engine install. I had ordered BMW OEM seals from Steve at Blunt a while ago, and was dreading the various jobs after reading and re-reading all the Tech articles. I decided to put myself in a corner and asked my 30 year old son to help me with the windshields since he had done both of his on his 911 with my daughter. We decided to do it over Christmas while he was here for a few days.


    I bought the nylon rope and washed the seals in my slop sink, cleaning them with my go-to Dawn liquid to get all the while stuff off. The windshields had been stored in my garage for over two years, so I was anxious to get them on the car and finally out of the way.


    We started with the front. We laid a moving blanket on the hood, sprayed the seal with soapy water and put the rope around it twice after fitting it on the glass. We also sprayed the car frame to help set the glass. Lifting it into place, my job was to push as he pulled the rope from the inside of the car, slightly behind as he went. This is a simple job, but not easy. With him occasionally telling me to do this or that (in a somewhat firm (LOL!) manner), it took us three tries to get it in. Long story short, it took us three tries on the rear as well. All in all, I'd say it took us 3 hours for both. Job done! Have someone with experience to help.


    I tackled the lock strip myself later in the week. I bought the stupid tool and gouged, scraped and blundered my way around the front windshield after silcone-ing underneath. The trick here is to use a LOT of soapy water and to get the angle of the tool just right. The corners are the tricky part and a second set of hands would help, as I found out later.


    Learning that, I enlisted a Porsche buddy for the rear. While he kept the strip aligned and facing down properly, I could concentrate on the right tool angle. We had it done in 15-20 minutes. MUCH easier with 2 people!


    The trunk seal was pretty easy. My upholsterer had given me a jar of heat activated glue that you brush on and let dry. I then attached the seal, after undoing the hinges one at a time to get it underneath (careful, they're spring loaded) and locked it down with some clothes pins. A heat gun warmed the seal and activated the glue. Easy! I have to SLAM the trunk now but I've got a really nice seal back there.


    The front hood seal is easy. You just have to decide which way to lay it on the hood. I was surprised to hear form Steve at Blunt that there is some controversy on this point, but I took his advice and laid it on the way he suggested. A little glue and bingo.


    Next up: doors.


    I already had that pushing tool that's made of plastic, and tackled the doors. I had stripped the car to get it painted, and didn't realize I needed to put the upper chrome piece on the latch side of the door back on the car first until after I had glued the seals in place. Don't make my mistake! The seal tucks into that piece as well. My biggest problem was the seals were too long...that is, they extended past my rocker panels plastic cover. I didn't stretch them or pull on them, they were just a few inches too long. This is a fiddly job and you need good glue. I eventually trimmed them, even though they have a specific profile at their ends to fit into the rocker panel trim. Sometimes, you just gotta do what you gotta do. This job was tough. Even after adjusting the striker, the doors aren't flush. I hear this is pretty common, but it drives me crazy.


    Next was the rear windows. This was the toughest of them all. My buddy was already here helping me with the rear lock strip and he pushed me to do the rear window seals. Thank God he did. Being a bit younger than me, he did all the pushing and tucking while I did the guiding but still, took us maybe 2 hours and a lot of (his) strength. Very difficult but they're in, and in correctly. Two man job.


    After all this I got to install the rear windows and their new seals. Pretty easy and straight forward. I kept one window assembled while I worked on the other one, for reference. They went in fairly easily...wife helped hold them in place while I screwed them into place.


    All in all, pretty satisfying. I don't want to do them again but if I have to, now I know how!

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    So yes , purchased through offerup and shipped to where I live in San Diego for $1095 , this is it. It has seen better days but I have seen worse and I am already eager to start the transformation progress . Original color Agave Green , Has a 5 speed (possibly g245) , Complete m10 , only thing is it doesn't run , and today discovered does not have a gas tank . Given the amount of bodywork and other things the chances of this thing driving again soon could definitely wait ; so the motor and transmission will definitely be coming out once my m52 for my e30 is off of the stand and the car is ready for Bimmerfest '19. That way I will have a lot more room in the garage for this thing and all of the parts that will be dropped off here soon . I do want to keep the M10 and have a set of Italian weber 45DCOE carbs to mate with an OEM intake manifold plus cast velocity stacks with foam opening covers on them , I want a full rebuilt m10 with raised compression , nice flowing head with 292-304 schrick cams .




    First things are first , Tail panel/under section plus quarter panels are going to be cut out and replaced. The person I am getting the body parts from thankfully had a great condition tail panel/under section and quarter panel all cut out together off of another 02 , Should be getting those dropped off this week along with good fenders from a 1602 , a nose piece looking better than mine that will be re-skinned with either a walloth or jaymic nose skin . It happens to have a good trim delete which I am fine with . Fix any dents , san to bare metal , undercoat and paint interior since it is already bare , with zero to little even surface rust , not even where the pedals are .. so we are looking good so far .