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Repaired the front subframe by welding in reinforcement plates--one for the driver's side motor mount (which was cracked), and the other for the center bottom of the subframe (which was all bent up from car jack use). Also fixed a bent and broken tow eye; we're guessing they were both bent inwards when connected with a tow strap. Many thanks to Ken Calardo for the welding! Video here.
Disassembling the steering box required the use of a pneumatic pickle fork to hammer off the pitman arm. Then, while trying to remove the two seals, I was (unintentionally) trying to tear apart the seals instead of removing them; oops. I had read about the metal inside the seals and had removed those—but I had removed only the springs, not the frames. Once I understood this, I simply yanked the seals out with Vise-Grips. Now on to the soaking and cleaning of all of the bits…
After some consideration, I decided to take things even further. Originally I was going to retain my factory brake booster, the idea being that I wanted to... you know... stop. But I had a number of gripes about the setup as usual. Primarily it was horribly ugly. While technically I had no clearance issues with the ITBs, it does take up a significant amount of room in terms of accessing the steering box, and other subframe bits. Plus it really is just awful to look at. After speaking to a friend, I decided to contact Chase Bays to see what their product could do in my setup. You may remember I'm planning on running Volvo 240 front brakes, and Mk4 VW Jetta rear brakes. They said that as long as I run a bias adjuster valve and some good pads, I should have a near stock braking experience up to 80% pedal travel. So I ordered the kit.
That is very loosely mocked up in the car. You can see it saves significant space, and frankly just looks nicer. I'm leaving the whole setup reversible. If I **** manual brakes, then I can go back to the stock booster setup. I have faith this will work however.
Finally I got the rear subframe back together. I couldn't put it in myself, so I'm hoping to get that all squared away this weekend. With any luck it will be rolling again soon, so I can drop it off for more fab work. Then engine bay paint, and it all goes back together.
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About this blog
This is my first blog. Last May (believe it or not) I decided to drop my rear subframe and rehab everything. I didn't fully understand the scope of the project or what a rite of passage it would be. I used cyclopticgaze's series of articles as a reference. Right away I realized there were a couple of rust problems that had to be overcome.
Peterman here on the FAQ helped me out by welding in new upper spring perches while Steve at Blunt hooked me up with a used pair of trailing arms with sound lower spring perches.
I had the rear subframe and trailing arms media blasted and then used POR15 on them.
The first project was new rear wheel bearings. For some reason my hubs were extremely tight on the stub axles. I had to take one to a machine shop because I couldn't pull it. Even after they were off, they were very difficult to get back on the axles. I bought a bearing driver set and a 4 pound hammer to get the old wheel bearings out and the new ones in. My 16 oz. craftsman claw hammer wasn't going to cut it. The bearing drivers are aluminum so you don't damage the bearings while hammering them in. The bearings are then greased. The spacers go between the two bearings in each trailing arm. New seals cover the bearings.
Next up were the 4 CV joints. Like most aspects of this project, I had no previous experience with CV joints, but managed to clean them out with brake cleaner, pack new grease in, and fit them back on the repainted axles. The boot clamps I had required a special pair of pliers (called boot clamp pliers, appropriately enough) to cinch the metal bands down tight. (Cyclopticgaze's rear subframe article has a link to a great piece on redoing CV joints.)
Next I had to show my stock differential some love. I cleaned it up, installed new side oil seals, and used RTV for the cover gasket per mlytle's excellent rear diff article on the FAQ. I also gave it a quick paint job (with very little prep.) New Red Line lube too.
Getting there. S&T Sway Bar. Cunifer brake lines from AceAndrew. Polyurethane trailing arm bushings and rear mount bushings. New rubber subframe bushings from Blunt with polyurethane inserts. Most hardware new from Blunt although some of the original bolts, etc cleaned up really well with EvapoRust. The rear subframe mounts have metal inserts that must be cut out before you can put the new bushings in. I rented a transmission jack from Sunbelt rentals. $35 per day and I only needed one day. I would highly recommend the transmission jack rental for lifting the subframe back into place.
Bilstein HD shocks. H&R Springs.
I'm experimenting with an aluminum strut spacer in the rear to increase rear ride height. I may end up removing it if I don't like it . The zipties to hold the spring rubbers on is an idea from cyclopticgaze that seems to work well. (The shiny black paint is POR15 covering rust repair sections welded in.)
New wheel cylinders and brake shoes. My first exposure to inserting the W-shaped spring was today. They are IN!
Here are some tools I recently bought that I never felt I needed in over 40 years of working on cars. I highly recommend you find these tools if you're redoing your rear subframe. The previously-mentioned 4 pound hammer and bearing driver set, a seal puller, and the boot clamp pliers (middle bottom). The needle nose vice-grips are great for brake springs.
Thanks for reading! Next up is the front end....
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So, I dropped my phone a few weeks ago. It was damaged beyond repair. My new phone now wears an "impact resistance" case that is pretty hefty being mostly rubber. The previous phone holder will not hold something this big....
Below is the new design with articulating arms. The weight of the phone causes the bottom of the slider to move down, pulling the two arms up to hold on to the phone. A spring pulls the slider up when the phone is removed. Current design will hold phones up to 1/2" thick. 2-7/8" to 3-3/8" wide.
So... it has been quite a journey. At more than one point I felt that I wouldn't be writing this for the following reasons.
1) 40MM DGAV carbs are significant for these cars. There are many stories of a 38MM not running as good as a 32/36, let along a 40mm.
2) Could the injectors run efficiently down to the flow rates of a 2L? ( we can talk about this one a little later).
3) Would an adapter work for the stock intake? Would it act funny? Would the added height make a difference?
4)Would the sharp 90 degrees turn going into the intake pool fuel at the bottom of it?
5) Is there enough space for the fuel pump, filters et al.
6) Would there be enough exhaust flow to get an accurate AFR for the system to tune?
7) Would the dimensions of the EFI, be able to fit under the hood?
😎 What to do with the linkage.
9) Would I have vacuum issues? Would it affect the brakes?
10) What sort of ignition advance should I run?. Would a stock Tii curve be best in my 123?
11) Would the fuel fall out of suspension on such a large bore of intake and make it impossible to idle.
12) Would the Coolant Temperature Sensor work mounted correctly in the intake?.
13) How do I tune this thing?
So let me try to summarise here, what we have discussed over the past five other blogs — starting from the beginning.
I like the Holley EFI sniper. It is a well-built unit, the parts, connectors, instructions and most importantly, support, is good.... except for one thing... the O2 sensor.
The 02 sensor is notoriously short-lived in many of these installs. The issue is not limited to just my application. They do not last long, but thankfully the replacements are about $60, and the chances are that you will be replacing one under warranty.
I used a summit fuel pump rather than the Holley one, just because they seem to have a higher than average failure rate. In all fairness, many people (including me still) do not plumb the return line properly into the tank. You want to return the fuel using a proper -6 fitting, and have a short length of hose in the tank to return it to the bottom, where it doesn't froth the fuel. If the pump pulls up this frothed fuel, it causes tiny little explosions (cavitation) f when the bubbles pop on the fuel impeller and cause it to fail prematurely. Now that I have the system working correctly and I know it is going to be installed for good, I will have my fitting installed.
I used summit fuel lines with Summit brand -6 fittings for the most part. I didn't go high budget, but I made sure that the hoses were built well. I also didn't use ethanol rated hoses as I won't have access to E85, and I run premium 92 ethanol free fuel. I also give a bit of a squirt of Lucas fuel additive when I fill up to keep the valves and the combustion chamber clean and lubed... I don't think it could hurt.
I purchased a canister style fuel filter with a 40-micron filter and plumbed it between the tank and the pump. Holley suggests at 10-micron filter after. I will pick one up and put it in when I finish the install of the -6 return inlet in the gas tank.
MSD 6a and Flywheel
In anticipation that I was going to do some performance upgrades, I installed an MSD 6a, and when I switched to a five-speed, I had the flywheel lightened. The only effect the lightened flywheel may have is that it returns to idle quickly, due to less inertia, so the idle tuning was perhaps a little more difficult as a result.
The MSD 6a I would say is the most important thing to have installed for this build. The EFI can put out a lot of fuel. The MSD I feel makes the tune a little more forgiving, for the simple reason that you get a stronger spark and better combustion. I had flooded the car with the EFI when I was trying to adjust the startup parameters, so even the MSD is not foolproof. There is a function in the software that allows you to floor it, and it will shut off the fuel when cranking, kind of like what you do with a carbed system.
Other than having the intake under the carb bored out to take advantage of the Dual 40mm( it is 41.5mm) inlets. I had the intake port matched to the head.
For S**ts and giggles, I took a ball hone and smoothed out the inside of the runners (see the previous blog). I am not sure that this made a difference, but when you are there, I don't see the harm in doing it.
This being said, many others much much more experienced than me said that smoothing out the intake would have the fuel fall out of suspension easier or earlier. If you are concerned about that, then don't do it. Or if you have the time install it stock and then pull off the intake hone it and see if you like the change.
I installed the temperature sensor in the intake. The temperature does wonder quite a bit, especially in traffic. After idling in traffic for 1-2 hours, the temp went to what I think is about 185 (2/3 of the way up on the dash gauge), the intake stayed about 165. After 2 min on the road, they came in line. The inlet air temperature also went up as well, but I then realized that the breather had slipped off its base, letting engine compartment air in. After I realigned it and snugged it up, the temperature now remaines constant.
I had what I think was a Stahl long header. It was rusty and cracked at the collector. I decided before the build that I was going to replace it with something better. I then decided to re-do my air conditioning, so that meant that a turbo was less likely; hence the I.E try y header.
The linkage was the most frustrating at the beginning of the build. I initially purchased a cable system and adapted it to be used with the linkage. I think it was for a DCOE cable apparatus. Regardless of what it was, it didn't work. It was more of an on/off switch it stuck so bad. So I had to build one.
I used the design that AustrianVespaGuy had for his EFI conversion. I adapted it a bit. As you can see (pictures coming) it is essentially it is an "L" shaped bracket attached to the brake booster. One end to the throttle rod, the other end to the throttle body. I had my fabricator buddy press in a bearing to make it operate smoothly. I had a heim jointed throttle rod, purchased from a fellow 02 member already, so it made for a much better and easily modulated pedal.
It took a lot of fiddling, but it was worth it. What is essential to do is make sure that the throttle returns completely. Every time you start the EFI system it "0's" the TPS, and uses that for the baseline. This is essential for every function of the system that the opening for the throttle is exact, especially for idle. If you don't then you get a high idle if it is stuck or other annoying behaviours that make it next to impossible to set the idle.
There are two return springs built into the throttle body itself. There is a third one in the pedal box and a fourth that is stock at the point where the throttle rod meets the rod going into your carb. My best advice is to make sure that they all are in intact and in good working order, even with that the TPS is sensitive sometimes to show 1% when the pedal is fully released. Noise at the TPS is not your friend, especially so due to the small opening required to maintain idle on such a small motor.
Here is a link to the heim jointed shaft. Really really nice feeling.
Simply put, do exactly what the instructions say. Take your time, do it right. I don't want to imagine how to troubleshoot this one. This includes putting a little bit of shrink tube over the ends of the wires you don't use.
Going through the firewall wasn't pretty. I have to go back and clean this up, and I am not sure what I am going to do. You need about a 1" hole to fish through the wires going from the TB into the car, especially if you want to run the screen inside the car. I ended up drilling two smaller holes side by side and then opening them up.
I haven't used any of the outputs, like the AC kick-down, or the fan controllers, but I do plan on using that in the future. It will be a nice backup to have the AC fan turn on as a backup if the car is overheating. Also, the EFI will accommodate the idle when the AC kicks in, and to help with passing power, it will temporarily shut off the AC when you floor it to pass, giving you extra power.... very cool (pun intended)
This brings me to the part that is by far the hardest to document Reading the balance of my Blog will show the path that I took to get to where I am now with the tune. I thoroughly encourage people to use this area to post their tunes and techniques on getting them.
In the end, this is what I did.
I put a bit of tape over the IAC inlet in the top, this is to isolate the influence of the IAC on your idle and mixture.
When in this mode, you can use the fuel table to tune manually.
Before you start going too crazy, set up the idle fuel AFR. Trust me when I say, it should be at least 12.5. It will overshoot, meaning not stopping at your set idle (between 800RPM to 1000 RPM idle, go all the way to 0 rpm and bounce back. This drove me nuts for weeks on end. I thought it was a "false lean" because the data was showing when I closed the throttle the AFR would spike. This had lead me down a false path of controlling fuel flow when the throttle was shut.
After the new header went in, I realized it was really lean, and not a "false lean". Reading up on false lean is very helpful, essentially it is caused by fuel soaking the 02 sensor, and causing it to not see any air until it dries out.
I digress. Start by adding fuel, especially around the bottom left-hand corner of the fuel map (this is the area where it idles).
In a separate screen open up the screen for the data graphs. Pick the "1000" pts from the drop-down in the top left corner of the screen. This allows pulling back from the data and look at the overall pattern.
Select Target AFR, Actual AFR and RPM for now out of the choices on the left. The Actual AFR should be spending a lot of its time close to either side of the Target AFR.
My problem with my first 02 Sensor from Holley, is that it was reading all over the place. My Second 02 sensor was reading evenly, but incorrectly as it would always be reading 2.0 below the target, no matter what I did. The third 02 sensor did the trick. It tracked along the actual nicely and made life really easy after that.
So while the IAC is blocked off. Set your actual idle via the throttle plate adjustment screw and get it about 50-75 RPM below your target that is set in the software (that is what some tuners say to do, I set my idle at my target). So if you set your idle in the software for 900 RPM. Get it to idle about 850, with your IAC blocked off with your AFR close to your target of about 12.5, or whatever you set it to in your target AFR table.
Adjust the fuel table manually, adjust the throttle screw until both are in balance and your AFR is on target. If while on the data graph page, you see the TPS sensor read anything above 0. Turn the car off then on. It will reset the baseline for the TPS and set it to 0 (it does this every time you start the car), this is important since a lot of other functions depend on knowing the Throttle Position
So you are now looking at the data graph screen. Your AFR should be close to where you want it. Your RPM is about where you want it (perhaps a little low) and your TPS is at 0.
Stop the car. Take the tape off the top of the throttle body that covers the IAC intake.
Start the car.
This is where my tune build works well but not perfect. Your IAC should be between 2-10, although I have a tendency to ignore it, solely because it takes time for the IAC to react, and with a small displacement engine, it is hard-pressed to react and do it accurately (at least that is my theory now). You can play with a setting that controls how fast it reacts. I played with it and didn't see any difference in how the idle reacted.
Rev the car and see how it is coming down to idle. My car has a lightened flywheel, so coming down to idle may happen faster then yours does. Adjust your idle with the setting in the Holley and adjust the throttle plate as required to make sure it doesn't overrun. I had to fiddle with this a lot, but got it working well.
Tune specific notes:
I have locked down the learning, specifically around idle. I will let it add more fuel around my idle, but not less ALA Austrianvespaguy's recommendation, make a nice "flat spot" in your target AFR table where your car wants to idle. This will make it easier for the system to find a stable idle. the smoothing function in the software is your friend, but don't overuse it. Intuitively you want to see everything smooth, I don' t think that is necessarily correct. To me reign in the changes by changing the 'learn' table. It starts off at 100%, meaning that the learn table can alter the fuel flow by 100%. As you get closer you start reducing this down. For the size of our motors, 20-30% is a healthy change.
Closed-loop change: Keep this tight at idle. and open it up once you are in the throttle. I locked my tune down. If I opened it up too much, my idle gets a little weird and bi-polar.
Learn table: Keep it tight at idle, let it open up a bit at higher engine loads and RPM's
I am sure that there is more stuff that I am missing, but this is a good start. I will update with some pretty pictures and a ride along, as soon as Vancouver digs itself out of some snow.
Next thing: incorporating the Sniper EFI system to control timing.
Getting excited for the Mid-America 2002 Fest 2019!
2015 Vern and I won the Hard Luck Award as Vern's water pump failed. 2016, 2017 & 2018 we won the coveted Iron Butt Award.
After winning the "Iron Butt" for 3 years in a row, I am bowing out of the competition for it. I plan to present the award going forward.
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The last few months I needed to finish up the car and get it watertight to ship off to the shop for the engine install. I had ordered BMW OEM seals from Steve at Blunt a while ago, and was dreading the various jobs after reading and re-reading all the Tech articles. I decided to put myself in a corner and asked my 30 year old son to help me with the windshields since he had done both of his on his 911 with my daughter. We decided to do it over Christmas while he was here for a few days.
I bought the nylon rope and washed the seals in my slop sink, cleaning them with my go-to Dawn liquid to get all the while stuff off. The windshields had been stored in my garage for over two years, so I was anxious to get them on the car and finally out of the way.
We started with the front. We laid a moving blanket on the hood, sprayed the seal with soapy water and put the rope around it twice after fitting it on the glass. We also sprayed the car frame to help set the glass. Lifting it into place, my job was to push as he pulled the rope from the inside of the car, slightly behind as he went. This is a simple job, but not easy. With him occasionally telling me to do this or that (in a somewhat firm (LOL!) manner), it took us three tries to get it in. Long story short, it took us three tries on the rear as well. All in all, I'd say it took us 3 hours for both. Job done! Have someone with experience to help.
I tackled the lock strip myself later in the week. I bought the stupid tool and gouged, scraped and blundered my way around the front windshield after silcone-ing underneath. The trick here is to use a LOT of soapy water and to get the angle of the tool just right. The corners are the tricky part and a second set of hands would help, as I found out later.
Learning that, I enlisted a Porsche buddy for the rear. While he kept the strip aligned and facing down properly, I could concentrate on the right tool angle. We had it done in 15-20 minutes. MUCH easier with 2 people!
The trunk seal was pretty easy. My upholsterer had given me a jar of heat activated glue that you brush on and let dry. I then attached the seal, after undoing the hinges one at a time to get it underneath (careful, they're spring loaded) and locked it down with some clothes pins. A heat gun warmed the seal and activated the glue. Easy! I have to SLAM the trunk now but I've got a really nice seal back there.
The front hood seal is easy. You just have to decide which way to lay it on the hood. I was surprised to hear form Steve at Blunt that there is some controversy on this point, but I took his advice and laid it on the way he suggested. A little glue and bingo.
Next up: doors.
I already had that pushing tool that's made of plastic, and tackled the doors. I had stripped the car to get it painted, and didn't realize I needed to put the upper chrome piece on the latch side of the door back on the car first until after I had glued the seals in place. Don't make my mistake! The seal tucks into that piece as well. My biggest problem was the seals were too long...that is, they extended past my rocker panels plastic cover. I didn't stretch them or pull on them, they were just a few inches too long. This is a fiddly job and you need good glue. I eventually trimmed them, even though they have a specific profile at their ends to fit into the rocker panel trim. Sometimes, you just gotta do what you gotta do. This job was tough. Even after adjusting the striker, the doors aren't flush. I hear this is pretty common, but it drives me crazy.
Next was the rear windows. This was the toughest of them all. My buddy was already here helping me with the rear lock strip and he pushed me to do the rear window seals. Thank God he did. Being a bit younger than me, he did all the pushing and tucking while I did the guiding but still, took us maybe 2 hours and a lot of (his) strength. Very difficult but they're in, and in correctly. Two man job.
After all this I got to install the rear windows and their new seals. Pretty easy and straight forward. I kept one window assembled while I worked on the other one, for reference. They went in fairly easily...wife helped hold them in place while I screwed them into place.
All in all, pretty satisfying. I don't want to do them again but if I have to, now I know how!
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So yes , purchased through offerup and shipped to where I live in San Diego for $1095 , this is it. It has seen better days but I have seen worse and I am already eager to start the transformation progress . Original color Agave Green , Has a 5 speed (possibly g245) , Complete m10 , only thing is it doesn't run , and today discovered does not have a gas tank . Given the amount of bodywork and other things the chances of this thing driving again soon could definitely wait ; so the motor and transmission will definitely be coming out once my m52 for my e30 is off of the stand and the car is ready for Bimmerfest '19. That way I will have a lot more room in the garage for this thing and all of the parts that will be dropped off here soon . I do want to keep the M10 and have a set of Italian weber 45DCOE carbs to mate with an OEM intake manifold plus cast velocity stacks with foam opening covers on them , I want a full rebuilt m10 with raised compression , nice flowing head with 292-304 schrick cams .
First things are first , Tail panel/under section plus quarter panels are going to be cut out and replaced. The person I am getting the body parts from thankfully had a great condition tail panel/under section and quarter panel all cut out together off of another 02 , Should be getting those dropped off this week along with good fenders from a 1602 , a nose piece looking better than mine that will be re-skinned with either a walloth or jaymic nose skin . It happens to have a good trim delete which I am fine with . Fix any dents , san to bare metal , undercoat and paint interior since it is already bare , with zero to little even surface rust , not even where the pedals are .. so we are looking good so far .
I will be doing a full install of this great product I purchased from Dapper Lighting... (v2’s) stay tuned.
Now that the headlight is removed you has clear access to the headlight bucket and bracket. There are four bolts holding it down, the bracket should fall right out. Depending on the shape of the bracket it may need to be cleaned up and re-sprayed.
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I spent the weekend finally getting some work done on my car.
Previously I had ordered a trunk kit to replace the rusty metal in the tire well and around the gas tank. This weekend I got the well replaced.
The new well was long and designed to be fit to size. I did some initial fitting and cut the lip off where it would be in the way.
Next up was cutting out the old well. Fun times in cramped working conditions.
Well is out and fitting the new well continues. There was a radius on the old well where it blended with the trunk floor, I removed it with a hammer and dolly to make a better connection when the new well went in.
Everything is flat and a LIGHT coating of zinc primer has been sprayed on. You can see holes in the trunk floor where I have been using cleco clips to hold the new well in for fitting.
fitted and clamped in place. Ready to be welded. This was as far as I got the first day. Cutting and fitting took about 7 hours of work.
Next morning... Zap zap zap zap all the way around. I found a few placed where the zinc had gone on a little thick and was getting contaminated welds from it. So I took it down a bit and my welds got good again. Also welding up the holes from the cleco clips while I go.
Well is in and I had plenty of time left to fit the well floor. it was close, but there were lots of gaps I'd need to close with hammer and dolly while welding it in. No room for clecos here, so I just layed in a couple tacks and went for it.
Working around the well floor.The copper strip is used as a heat sink that weld won't stick to. The RR Spike is and dolly are both used to move the metal to cloe the gaps. You can see the gaps closing up where while I work around the well. This was a good bit of work.
And its in, with literal minutes to spare before I had to stop work, clean up, and make the 3 hour drive back home. I scrubbed it with some ospho to remove the surface rust that had formed, and then sprayed on some more ospho to keep new rust from forming until the next time I could get to it.
Next step will be the gas tank surround. Once that's done I can put the gas tank back in, run fuel lines, and no longer have to push the car around to work on it!
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After a 17yr hiatus from owning my last 2002 (sold on 02/02/02)...I finally obtained a project car. A 1976 2002 - Pastellblau, 4spd, Behr A/C ...found in SC....Most all original paperwork from purchase included....History from Dealer in Tennessee....1st Owner in Atlanta, GA. Can a high travel lifestyle enable me to resurrect this vehicle?..Let's see!!
Many challenges....the name "FLEX" Comes from various patches of FLEXSEAL from previous owner to patch holes in roof (sunroof plugged/leaked/frame rusted) Amazingly that's the only major rust ..the framerails, floorpans, shocktowers, rockers are rust free. The car was originally an Automatic...converted at some point to a Manual 4spd. Car barely runs...body & Interior needs full resto...yeah...probably more of a project than I should take on...but i'm game...in theory.
Today (02/02/19)...I pull the car from the trailer....can't crank it for more than 5 seconds....clutch is inoperable..and can't make it rolling into the garage....well...off to a start of sorts...hahah
After roughly 6 months got the dash back from Just Dashes. They did a great job as expected. Also had them put a 5 speed indicator to match the technology. I had Finishline interiors in San Jose rework the little side vent pieces as mine were destroyed. They also cleaned up all under panels. Really pleased with how everything turned out. It’s not cheap but it really does look like a new stock dash near as I can tell.
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A few months back I had decided that the outer wheelhouse that I scabbed together for the R/R just wasn’t good enough. A WN order netted me a new housing along with more bits n bobs. I had originally planned to swap this car to a shortneck diff as the old subframe was bent. Well, I lucked into a nice longneck subframe and control arms a bit ago so gears changed and I’m now committed to a longneck install. I’m currently struggling with the control arm bushings for this setup. The new OEM bushings aren’t built like the originals and don’t fit. They’re missing an outer sleeve so they’re loose. I either need to create a sleeve, source NOS bushings, go poly, or salvage my cracked and worn originals from the old control arms. Ugh
I managed to locate a 1bbl carb air cleaner and modified it to fit the Weber 32/36 that’s on the car now. I still need to add the CCV tube, but it’s coming along nicely.
I’ve also collected a crack free instrument cluster dash pad and a crack free upper pad. Now to stumble onto a nice lower pad with no tray ribs to complete my 3pc dash.
Little things needed for the 5spd swap are showing up. A new stock exhaust is here, proper hubcaps, and misc other items are present and accounted for.
I think I have a plan for my adjustable “frame table” I’ll start in on that in this lifetime somewhere. 🤣
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With mixed emotions and must say after 1 yr of trying to get the paint and body work done myself with my friends help, I’m throwing in the towel.
Im sending Derby to some professionals to figure out the paint and bodywork.
I’m still roughly sticking with the original color of Derby Grey (Griogio medio).
here are some pics of derby leaving home 😢😉
Since my last update I’ve managed to finish welding in the LR floor pan and the replacement rear seat support.
I added a few more braces to the compartment in anticipation of the complete removal of the left outer rocker and the outer A-pillar cover sheet. I also removed a section of the left quarter panel to facilitate removing the outer rocker. The remaining outer rocker came off without incident.
I’ve started making repairs to the inner rocker. The bottom 1-1/2” or so was perforated or just too thin to do anything with so I’ve been removing sections and recreating them with 16ga sheet steel and a bead roller to maintain the factory rib details.
The outer A sheet is gone now. It looks like the trailing fender mount flange needs to be removed to get “clean margins” so that’s coming off next.
I just ordered a pair of outer wing sheets. The car smells of mice and I’m guessing the little beggars have nests in the cavity under the fuse box and in the same cavity on the pass side. Both sheets have holes in them and are generally rotten so at $75 ea I felt it was money well spent.
So far the work order for now is:Replace drivers door check mount, A sheet, fender flange, finish inner rocker repairs, install outer rocker, replace wing sheets, replace/repair left quarter, replace left side door hinges. Then it’s either onto the trunk repairs or the left frame rail. I’m thinking the trunk makes the most sense as I’m not mentally prepared to remove the Driveline and nose yet.
Noticed my Blog wasn't showing up until I added an entry, so I copied the description to here.
After sitting for most of its life its time to give this gorgeous low mileage example a restoration worthy of the record books. I purchased this car from the second owner. He bought it back in the early 80s while living in Germany before driving it to Italy where he lived. When it came time for him to move to the US he had trouble selling the car and decided to bring it to New York with him where the car ultimately sat until it could be legally titled once it was 25 years old. By then the owner had swapped in us market side markers and an American speedometer as requested by the DMV at the time. The odomoter reads just over 30,000 miles and from my overall inspection of the vehicle I believe it to be accurate. Being a North East car that sat in a mechanics backyard for a number of years a full restoration is in order and will be completed using many connections I've formed with some of the best automotive talent in the USA. Today marks the official project start date, and the car is headed to my good friend Matt's shop, Beaver Built. The project begins with major surgery- rust repair. At least one subframe mount will need to be cut out, and many more spots including the usual suspects will be discovered and fixed as the project progresses. Following rust repair the car will be shipped to me in California where I now reside and be stripped to a bare shell for a clean start to a very lengthy project. I have some very wild engine plans but the car will retain a very mild appearance with practicality improvements integrated as cleanly as possible.
Be sure to follow my Instagram for more up to date updates @rocanmotor as well as my friend Matt's shop @beaverbuilt for all the nitty gritty. I'll keep this post updated as much as possible.
I apologize to all my 02 friends here for my long hiatus... Between starting my career and making a few big moves in the past three years I've had to put the 02 projects aside for a bit. I've worked on some stuff in the meantime but I've never really been happy not having an 02 in my life.
Let the fun begin.
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Most of the parts have been gathered for the project (or at least a critical mass), and yesterday the car was off to the shop. My mechanic is about a 45 minute drive one-way from our home, and with no one to help with the shuttle, I loaded the car on my trailer for delivery. (Photo 1 below).
Upon arrival at Richard Rushton's shop in Puna, Hawaii, I am reminded of why this fellow is popular among Big Island vintage sports car enthusiasts. My car got put in a side garage, because his main work area was taken by a beautiful, Meissen Blue Porsche 356 "C" coupe, in for regular maintenance. The car belongs to a friend of mine, came from the Willhoit stables in California, and is stunning (see Photo 2 below).
While swapping cars around, Richard showed me his retro-mod Austin-Healey Frog Eyed Sprite. It looks tame enough, until you tilt the bonnet. The motor is from a 1977 320i, with engine mounts, oil pan, pump, and oil pick-up from a 2002 320i. Twin Weber 32/36 progressive downdrafts provide the atomized gas. The motor has a Delta camshaft, and BMW performance exhaust system. The brake booster set-up is Fiat. The transmission is a five speed from a 1981 320i, and the car has a 3.64 differential. First gear winds to 40 mph, 2nd gear 70 mph, 3rd gear 90 mph, 4th gear buries the speedometer at 120 mph, and Richard says fifth gear is too fast for driving! (see photos 3, 4, 5, and 6 below)
New parts for the 1600ti vary from used OEM to what is available. Conner Elkington at Vintage Autobahn came through with the proper, angled velocity stacks for the Solex PHH 40's. While realoem.com does give part numbers for these stacks, I found (as did jgerock) that the numbers are not embossed on the stacks, only "L" and "R" on each part. Photo 7 shows a picture of the new (old) stacks. Thanks to all for helping with the search. Conner got these stacks from a set of carburetors that were on a 1600ti at some time, but I suspect the trumpets are the same for 1600ti and 2002ti.
Rocky Srl, the eBay Solex parts seller in Italy (eBay user name alfa 1750) came through in top form with all the carburetor parts I ordered. The plan is to convert a set of Solex PHH 40's, now set up for a 2002ti, into all the proper jetting, venturi, and rebuild requirements for this 1600ti application. I got two complete rebuild kits, plus main jets 120, pilot jets 50, idling air jets 100, and 30 mm venturis. The service was fast from Italy, and order complete. I'll post later as to how these parts actually work out in my carburetors! (See photo 8, below).
Tsingtao_1903 helped me tremendously in locating two, rare items for this project. He found me a Kienzle "look alike" clock for the dash, and repaired/wired/bench tested for installation. He also sold me an original steering wheel from a period BMW TI or GT. See photos 9, 10, and 11 below.
A complete set of 1600 engine gaskets came from Walloth & Nesch in Germany (photo 12) and Steve at Blunttech Industries supplied new rubber bushings for the front suspension, and new tie rods. (see photos 13 and 14).
Last but certainly not least, among all helping me, Slavs is my rock! He's an unbelievable source of information on these early 1600 cars, and is helping me with OEM front and rear sway bars, and a variety of other parts and wonderful advice. Not sure I'd be doing this project without him. Thanks, Slavs!
All for now, and please enjoy the photographs. Aloha, Robert (Mahalo to you too, Ray_)!
Figured I'd throw up a post with my car status as of the end of the year, list some high-level things on my to-do list this year, and an updated "how much I've spent" listing.
Shortly after I painted the engine bay, I cleared out the garage and pushed the '02 in, so I could work on it in the cold Michigan weather
I removed the wiring harness from the engine bay (wish I had done that before painting, was easier than I thought it would be), installed the IE pivot bearing/sleeve for the booster, hooked up the brake master, and ran Andrew's cunifer brake line kit in the front.
Got the car up on Quickjacks, pulled the driveshaft off, and ran the brake line to the rear T.
Also test-fit Andrew's headlight covers
Lowered the car back down and dropped the engine in:
I then used a Harbor Freight engine bar to keep it from flopping over, and then raised it back up.
Things to do for 2019 (in no particular order)
Install RHD Engineering lightweight flywheel, new Sachs clutch, and Getrag 240 5-speed trans.
Install Speedhut Speedo + Tach in my instrument cluster with CF vinyl + Dash cover (Teaser pic for my next blog entry*)
Repair passenger side floorpan + heater hole in firewall (bottom lip is rusted away)
Make new engine bay wiring harness using a Delphi connector
Start engine for first time
Rebuild rear subframe/suspension/brakes
Install Limited Slip Diff
Gut trunk (what little remains of it), install 16 gallon aluminum fuel cell in stock location, run new fuel line, install EFI pump
Enjoy my '02 for the first time ever
How much I've spent so far
This has all the engine rebuild stuff, so I'll start with the total and then itemize below that.
Previous total - $10,006
Engine rebuild - $5,027
Front Susp/Brakes/Rust Repair - $2,723
Running Total - $17,756
And I'm probably forgetting stuff.
Engine Rebuild Costs:
Front Suspension/Brakes/Rust Repair:
*Blog entries are not guaranteed
When I rebuilt my front suspension, I noticed that the steering box adjustment was pretty much all in. The adjustment screw was almost flush with the top of the lock nut. Since I have a right hand drive, I thought that I had better make a start in finding a replacement since they are no where near as common as left hand drive versions. The right hand drive steering box is a direct mirror image to the left hand drive. The machined worm gear spiral actually runs in the opposite direction as well - I can’t believe that BMW didn’t just arrange the same steering box on the opposite side of the car rather than get ZF to make an exact mirror copy.
After posting a ‘want to buy’ on the UK board and Australian Facebook, I struck lucky with a good box from the UK with lots of adjustment left and a smooth action. This was bought for a quite unreasonable sum (plus shipping) and sent to Adelaide. Unfortunately, I was in the middle of planning an interstate move and a 9 week tour with a camper trailer, so I had little choice but to pack the new steering box and ship it on to Sydney where we were moving to.
The (fast) drive from Adelaide to Sydney in my car reinforced to me the need to get the steering box changed out. While less noticeable when puttering about town, sweeping bends at 80mph we’re a bit unnerving as I waited for the steering to catch up with the input I had just given it. The rest of the suspension (all new) has performed well but the steering had some room for improvement.
I got a seal kit from Walloth & Nesch which also comes with a paper gasket, a new pitman arm nut and a tabbed lock washer. I know that I could get the seals individually for a lot cheaper from a bearing / seal supplier based on the dimensions on the seals but I saw the benefit of getting a complete kit. The pitman arm came off first, I used a puller and some judicious application of heat from a MAPP torch after spinning off the nut with my long breaker bar. The arm wound off with no dramas once the heat had expanded it and it lost its grip on the shaft. The box came apart easily, revealing the worm gear and sector rollers as perfect, no galling or obvious wear. The ball bearing cages were intact and no obvious wear on the races or balls. The shims were scrubbed clean with a scotchbrite pad. The housing was cleaned up and given a coat of ‘silver galv’ paint before the new seals were gently tapped into place with suitably sized sockets. The marks on the shaft were aligned with the marks on the case and then the box was reassembled. 300ml of clean SAE 90 oil was added and the box worked back and forth a bit to distribute around the bearings.
Removing the old box was relatively straightforward, though I did elect to remove the whole drag link and steering idler so that I could get the Pitman arm in the vice and give it a good whack with a BFH. I could have used a ball joint tool but I was conscious that I didn’t want to damage the rubber seal on the base of the ball joint so the ‘hard whack’ method was required. Removing the lot was the next logical step as I didn’t have enough room underneath the car for a good swing of the hammer.
I didn’t do anything to the steering idler apart from cleaning it up and topping up its oil. The RHD idler was common with NK and CS coupes (as are a number of RHD only parts). The unit is actually adjustable but I left mine alone as there was no appreciable play in any direction and yet it turned very smoothly. I am going to assume that is OK as I can’t find any instructions as to how it may be adjusted.
I renewed the flex joint after cleaning up the parts. The braided strap for the horn appears to have been working long term by just rubbing against the heat shield (RHD joints have a heat shield to protect the joint against the heat from the exhaust). I added a crimped loop of wire that I protected with heat shrink and installed within the heat shield to protect it.
The new flex joint is quite a bit smaller than the original (no date mark unfortunately, marked Jurid and SKF). I am hoping that there is no compromise in terms of strength longer term.
You can see the comparison between the old box and the replacement in terms of how much adjustment is available. I will give the replacement box a tweak once I have the car back on the road.
When I get a chance, I will tear down the old box and see what state it is in. It definitely felt a lot more rough than the replacement. I am hoping that the worm and roller are OK as I will get it rebuilt with new bearings if it is possible since they are getting pretty rare now. I will update this post with whatever I find.
Decided on different wheels. Since this will now be my "wild" car I don't want to be ruining rare-ish period correct wheels, just in case. So I picked up a set of Tire Rack's private label wheels that have just about the perfect measurements for the 2002.
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