Written by Otis
Tuesday, 19 September 2006
How to Win a BMWCCA Concours Event -- Eight Easy Steps for the Sure-Fire Winning Combination
Rule No. 1: Silly wabbit, you can't win a BMWCCA Concours Event. Not unless you have won before. If you have won before, then you may win again. But if you have not won, you may not win. Sorry, it's in the rules. The lone exception? If you have never won before, and this is your first event, then you may place third. But no higher. You see, this way, you will be encouraged to enter again, this time, using more expensive wax. And after all, the Club needs your $20, so that it can buy trophies for the past winners. Whom as noted above, are permitted to win again.
Rule No. 2: Please make certain that everything on your car is stock. And we mean, 100% stock. Well, except for the engine - you can swap out the engine. And the brakes. Well, okay, those Recarros are okay, too. And alright, the AC Schnitzer kit is pretty cool, so that's okay. And needless to say, if you put a supercharger under the hood, you get a trophy, period (hey, you can check it -- it's in the rules!). But otherwise, your car better be stock -- and we mean stock! Indeed, if you put any of those obnoxious subwoofers in the trunk, then you lose points, bucko -- big time! In fact, you're lucky we don't DQ your butt, you obnoxious, ground-pounding, thumping butt-brain!
Rule No. 3: You must not have any lint in your AC vents. Period. Of all the things that you can do wrong, having lint in your AC vents is Offense A-Numero-Uno. In this regard, you must carry with you at all times, a dirty Q-tip. That dirty Q-tip, which you must produce upon demand, is proof positive that you don't have lint in your AC vents. You don't actually need to use the Q-tip to clean the vents -- you could use it for something else, like cleaning your ears (or something). In other words, it's the thought (and the Q-tip) that counts.
Rule No. 4: You must douse your tires in Armour All. In fact, anything short of using enough Armour All to float a battleship, is a Concours foul-out. Of course, it goes without saying that the Armour All must also appear, not only on the sidewalls, but on the tire treads themselves. Because everyone knows how practical it is, to Armour All the treads of your tires, when your car is parked in a muddy grass field. Hey, don't question the rules here -- it's just something that has to be done, if you want to win. Provided as noted above, that you have won before -- otherwise, you cannot win, regardless of how much Armour All you use, silly wabbit.
Rule No. 5: "Rags Down!" means, rags down, sucka! Unless you are a prior Concours Judge or Chair. In which case, "Rags Down!" means, "Rags Down, except for prior Concours Judges or Chairs -- you guys can keep on shinin', because you're going to get a trophy!" (Even if your car has a huge rip in the front seat, and rust on the a-pillars - hey, nobody's perfect, but that doesn't mean you're not going to get another trophy -- after all, you're a past judge!).
Rule No. 6: During the judging, it is imperative that you stand around and note, within earshot of the judges, precisely how many hours you spent "claying" your car, and that you tried "at least three different waxes" on your "other" car (a lowly mid-90s 3-series) to see "which one reacted the best, given the angle of the sun, the ambient air temperature, and the relative humidity." It might not hurt also to note exactly how early you placed your car on the field, timing matters perfectly to avoid any mid-morning dust kick-up, and any dew drops. Because as everyone knows, no self-respecting BMW owner would ever allow his or her car to be exposed to dust or dew! That might lead to something really, really bad -- like lint in the AC vents - horrors!
Rule No. 7: If at all possible, you should have a little scale model of your car, which you should place on the rear deck of your car. Particularly if it is an M-car. No Concours-winning car is complete without a scale model of itself. Also, please make sure that you bring with you, all of your past trophies. Please carry them in a large, leather suit case (preferably designer label). Please spread these trophies out on a blanket in front of your car. Because as noted above, it's important that you let the judges know that you are a past winner. See Rule No. 1, above.
Rule No. 8: Finally, if at all possible, make sure you have a new car (or relatively new car). For example, your 36-year old 2002 is bound to be dirty -- so why even try to clean it up? Much better to lease a new M-car, and then, don't drive it. Except to the Concours event, of course. You can drive it there. But please be aware, that if you drove the car, it will get dirty, but if you don't drive the car, then it follows that you increase the likelihood that it will be clean, and that you will win! Expressed as a formula: New car + little or no mileage = clean car, which in turn equals trophy. Provided, of course, that you've won before (again, see Rule No. 1). What if your new car gets dirty? Turn it in, and lease another one. Lease, enter, win, return, repeat. Get it?
So there you have it. It's so simple! Follow these eight simple rules, and those clean-car trophies will beat a path to your door. And above all, remember -- DON'T DRIVE YOUR CAR -- IT WILL GET DIRTY!!! Don't you just hate it when that happens?
Happy motoring -- Otis
PS -- To all those I have offended here -- well, to quote John Belushi in Animal House (after he smashed Stephen Bishop's guitar) -- "Sorry." To each his own, and remember, I'm just kidding -- and besides, who would you rather listen to on a Monday night, me or Theisman (does that guy ever shut up)?
I wanted to share this awesome ad with anyone who's interested! I saw it on Superbowl Sunday, but it wasn't put on youtube until a few days ago. As a Broncos fan, the game was painful. But seeing a beautiful 2002 on t.v. was a cool surprise!
Contributed by Mars Wednesday, 20 December 2006 By Mars aka Marsman
When considering to buy a BMW 2002, there are several things to consider. In the U.S. there were several different models produced. Production for these cars ran between the years 1968 through 1976. This guide will attempt to cover in detail some of the basic differences between each model and their respective year(s) of production.
As with any older car from the 60's or 70's, the most important thing to look for is the condition of the body. You MUST carefully inspect the vehicle for any signs of rust. The most common points of rust on 02's can be found in:
Rear shock towers
The spare tire well
The gas tank area
The lower rocker panels on each side of the car
The driver and passenger floors (esp. on '76 cars, the passenger floors go bad)
The front fenders also tend to rust, especially around the turn signals and where it meets the front nose. Fortunately, they are very easy and relatively inexpensive to replace. Other areas that deserve attention are the bottom of the doors, the rim around the front hood and rear trunk and also the front strut tower assembly. Also look under the car and check the frame rails connecting the front crossmembers to the floors.
That having been said, don't let a little rust deter you from buying an 02. Some rust is merely surface rust and other forms of rust can easily be repaired. So long as you are aware of what the car has and needs before you buy it, and as long as the vehicle is priced right accordingly you will be fine.
This applies to both fuel injected models and carb'ed models. Check for any excessive smoking due to oil burning. Note the color of the smoke as well. It can smoke in either blueish, white, or grayish black. The color of the smoke will indicate whether it's simple humidity off of the exhaust manifold, possible blown headgasket, worn valve rings, etc.. Here are some examples of colors and symptoms:
Blue smoke on 02's is most often seen on the overrun, meaning if you decelerate from high rpm speeds suddenly a blue puff of smoke would come out of the tail pipe. Blue smoke is the result of oil burning and most often associated with bad valve seals and worn valve guides. This is not major but will require attention down the line. Just be sure to check the oil level regularly.
White smoke is most often caused by some sort of humidity coming into the exhaust system. It could be as simple as drops of water hitting the exhaust manifold but usually is caused by coolant leaking out from the head. Somewhere water or moisture is being forced into the combustion chamber and being burned out the exhaust. A cracked head or leaking head gasket could cause these. If possible, momentarily smell the exhaust coming out from the rear tailpipe on a cold start. If it smells kind of "sweet", it could be a sign of a cracked cylinder head or also a potential blown head gasket.
Black smoke is caused by raw gasoline burning. An overly rich condition can be the cause by a choke stuck shut, a bad fuel pressure regulator, a plugged up air filter or a bad injector. On carbureted vehicles, the choke and choke linkage could have a buildup of gum and varnish. Typically, if you only get black smoke first thing in the morning, it has to do with the choke or the fuel enrichment portion of your fuel injection system. If you get black smoke all the time, get it fixed NOW.
Check for any sludge inside the valve cover or under the oil filler cap. Unusually white/milky substance can be indicative of a blown head gasket. The white milkiness is usually coolant mixed with oil. Ask the owner how long it's been sitting and whether or not it's humid in that area as sometimes lack of running the car and humidity can also cause moisture in the valves producing similar results. Also check for any dark, sludgy or black gummy stuff. Watch out for oil additives as well as some owners will use "stop smoke" additives or other products to masquerade any potential problems.
Check for any valvetrain noise(s) or other unusual sounds.
Inspect the water pump fan, check for any cracks.
The Tii models have a mechanical fuel injection system called the "Kugelfischer" injection system. This system is actually very reliable and dependable so long as it has been kept and tuned properly. If a Tii pump is running well, a good rule of thumb is not to mess with it.
Glance the engine compartment overall. Check the coolant cap to see if any discolorations exist, check the motor mounts, and make sure all the components are there such as the reservoir bottle, etc.
The differentials in 2002's are pretty reliable. Simply do a visual check for signs of leaking seals, and listen for noises or whining sounds. Leaking seals or whiney diffs are usually worth repairing since these problems aren't severe. Most often 02 owners will simply replace them with another used unit.
Manual transmissions are also pretty much bullet proof in 02's. The most common problems with transmissions are bad synchros and faulty or loose output flange or bearing noise. If the noise is very faint, it is considered acceptable, but, excessively loud noise is usually indicative of impending bearing failure. If the trans has a louder noise to it, a rebuild will be necessary or at a minimum replace the layshaft bearings.
5. Model Year Variations/Info:
1968 was the first year for the 2002 model. It's origins came from the former 1600 model after a 2 door coupe concept (1600-2) was conceived. The 2002 model is simply the 1600-2 2 door body designation with a 2.0 litre motor. These are usually identified by missing lower side moldings, simple chrome bumpers, and no reflectors. These have the original round taillights and the front grills are silver & black combination.
1969-1971.5 models are pretty much the same as the '68's, with mild upgrades to the braking systems. Minor interior modifications were made and the long neck rears were replaced with the newer short neck axle. CV Joints were also added, I believe.
1972 introduced the 2002tii in the US, the most desirable of the 02 models. Tii models were fuel injected instead of the traditional carb'ed versions. The Tii stands for Touring Injected International. Prior to this, the Touring International (TI) designation was for the higher performance, dual carb'ed versions of the 02. The Tii's fuel injection was achieved by the "Kugelfischer" mechanical fuel injection system. Tii's had a higher compression than their regular carb'ed counter parts (9.0:1 vs. 8.5:1). Internal engine modifications were made as well. Larger intake valves were added, a completely improved braking system (larger front rotors/calipers/pads, larger rear wheel cylinders and larger master cylinder/brake booster), and a better suspension was added (stiffer control arms and spindles). Wider wheels (5X13 vs 4 1/2X13) were also added. The overall fuel injection changes and higher compression made the Tii good for about an extra 25-30HP over it's predecessor. In 1972, 130bhp was not common and made these cars a blast to drive. Visually, they looked the same as the 71.5's with the exception of the 2002tii badge on the rear.
The carb'ed versions stayed the same up until 72.5, where the engine gets a major revision due to new emission laws. This introduced the E12 head. The original heads were stamped with 121 or 121TI. The newer E12 head also benefitted from bigger valves (from 44mm to 46mm). A two barrel Solex carb is used. The EGR, and the air pumps are dropped. Performance was improved as a result. The Tii also gets the new E12 head in mid-'72, combined with aluminum intake runners versus the original black plastic banana tube intake runners found on 121 heads.
1973 yielded no major changes except for the bumpers. The bumpers were extended further out to meet the new U.S. bumper regulations.
1974 introduced some major body changes. The most noticeable are the rear tail lights and bumpers. The "roundtails" are gone and in place are the square tail lights. High impact bumpers were added to meet U.S. federal regulations. The interiors are upgraded with completely new upholstery and simulated wood is added to the gauges. The front grills are now black plastic. The turn signal lever is moved to the left of the steering column, where older models have it on the right hand side.
The Tii gets the same body facelift, however, this is the last year for the Tii in the US.
1975 brings no visual changes. The engines are highly modified with emission controls. Thermal reactors were added, EGR's and air pumps, and also the '75's yield lower compression. The '75's are the least desirable as a result.
1976 is the last year of the 2002. No major exterior changes were made, but the emission controls were removed for the 49-state version (non-California) cars. Thermal reactors are no more, which was a welcomed changed. Rear axle ratio is lowered on 49-state cars to improve acceleration up to a higher numerical 3.9:1 vs the original 3.64:1. A new cylinder head (designated the E21 2.0) is used which is the same one the 320i's eventually adopt. The non "49 State" version California cars are identical to '75 models. The '76's are by far the easiest to maintain and own. By 1976 BMW had ironed out all of the problems and as a result the '76's are the most reliable all around models. These are perfect for the first time 02 owner.
Turbos & Other Variations
Turbos were only produced in 1974, sadly, by BMW. They were introduced before the early crisis in the 70's and high gas sales affected sales. BMW in a panic pulled the plug on the Turbo model. They were never officially imported into the US. Other models not making it overseas were the "Touring" model (hatchback '02s) which were built from '71 to '75. BMW also produced a limited run of targa models referred to as the Baur convertibles. From '72-'75, they existed with targa-tops, a removable metal roof section over the front seats, and a soft fold-down rear window. All of the targa models were 2002's. Convertible 02's were also made in the late 60's using the 1600 model.
Written by otherbrother
Monday, 13 November 2006
1, used spark plug with good threads. Plug will need to be correct for your desired use.
1, air presure regulator.
1', of 1/8" or 1/4" presure hose rated for your intended use ( most home compressors are rated between 150/180 pounds working pres.).
4, hose to pipe nipples sized for the hose and regulator you have.
4, hose clamps.
2, male quick connect ends sized to the style you are going to use.
1, female quick connect of the same size.
1, presure guage if you desire, not required.
Remove end electrode from plug, being careful not to damage threads. Remove center from spark plug, best done by chipping ceramic away with a small punch or chisel and hammer. Silver solder, braze, or weld one of the male quick connects to the insulator end of the now hollow plug shell. Cut your hose in half, attaching nipples to each end. Thread one end of each hose into the regulator and put the remaining quick connects on one of each hose ends. Install the guage in the regulators guage port if you are going to use one and thats it.....
Be sure to back the regulator off to its closed or lowest position before useing. Bring the cylinder you want to check to it's TDC position, screw in the adapted spark plug shell and attach the quick connect on the regulated line. Hook up your presurized air supply and open your regulator slowly.
Listen at the tail pipe for noise of air escapeing past the exausht valve, throttle bore for an intake valve leaking and rocker cover port for ring leakage.
Written by z Sunday, 08 January 2006
There are some known issues with this CD, especially when using windows XP on machines with more than 512 megabytes of RAM and certain versions of Acrobat Reader.
If you see "system error &80004005 (-21.....) unspecified error" or similar you may need to downgrade to downgrade to Acrobat 6
MatthewCervi says "Are you using Acrobat 7.0.x? I've found that you have to use the 6.0.x tree from Adobe otherwise you get that error. Currently I have 6.0.4 installed on my system. "
If you see the infamous "runtime 2004 Not enough memory" you are likely running too much ram.
Fixes: (from Usenet)
This modifies boot.ini to give two windows configurations you can choose from upon bootup. One is restricted to 512 mb of ram while the other is the full ram configuration. You should backup your boot.ini file before messing around with it, and you should alter your existing file rather than copying and pasting this file over. For example, your system MAY NOT have the same boot partition as the example below.
Aug 22 2004, 3:13 pm show options
From: "Tklop" < [email protected] > - Find messages by this author
Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2004 16:13:01 -0700
Local: Sun, Aug 22 2004 3:13 pm
Subject: Re: Software will not run with more than 512MB RAM installed
Hey, fellow posters:
I figured it out!
This doesn't solve the compatibility issue, but it's a good work-around!
Thanks to some kind help from "Jim" on the "Software - Other Software" board
over at Dell Support (where I also had posted my problem).
I modified the boot.ini file as follows:
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP
Professional 512MB" /fastdetect /maxmem=512
I modified the file by copying the line beneath [operating systems] and
pasting it as a new line below. Next, I added the switch "/maxmem=512" to
limit the operating system from using more than 512MB. Next, I modified the
text for the second OS line to indicate the lesser RAM configuration.
Running the program without the CD - from jgerry2002
To run the BMW repairs without needing the CD do this:
1) Install the program and get it working using the tips above
2) Copy over the PDF and PICS folder over to a location on your C:. In my case I chose to put it in with the ETK/ETM files in the BMW95 folder, C:\bmw95\pics and C:\bmw95\pdf
3) Open bmw.ini in C:\programme\BMW (assuming default install path)
Edit this section which will point at your CD-ROM
Change these lines to the path on your C:\ (Its NOT case sensitive)
Now the Repair manual does not need the use of the CD-ROM. Perfect for setting up on a small laptop for use in the garage.
We'll add more tips as they come up. Please reference the Forum Post