Engine and Drivetrain

Make your car go
steve k.
When i got a hold of my touring, it came with a canister style oil filter. Since it needed an oil change a few other things to be drivable i had to replace the filter with the style that every one else used. But now, since I have a nice stash of the filter replacements i put the parts back together to get it to be more original.
All part for maintenance are still available, so putting things together was not a problems



Filter itself


It came with a card


The canister that I have.


The spring, the bolt, and the gasket inside the canister. All stays in place due to the gasket.


The mount is different from your standard one




And all goes back in place.


You have to be under the car to get to the filter. That is a bit different then that I used to now.


Enjoy!

Collinster742002
Original Authors: Trent Tilton and Rob Shisler
Transmission seals kit
Shifter rebuild kit
New six- or eight-bolt guibo with new nuts and bolts
Center bearing
Exhaust flex-sealing ring
Clutch kit (including e21 323 throwout bearing)
New copper exhaust downpipe nuts (3 of them)
Downpipe gasket
Slave cylinder
Slave cylinder extension hose
New set of flywheel/pressure plate bolts

We are working on getting part numbers for all these parts.
Probably one of the most "transforming" bits of work you can do to an '02 is to remove the standard Getrag 232 four-speed transmission and convert the car to accept a G-245 five speed overdrive transmission from the later '80-83 e21 320i.
The overall operation is not that difficult, although it may seem daunting at first. It is a task that can be done by someone with basic mechanical skills in their driveway (although it is preferable to do it on a level surface). For this article, Trent used a kit he got from Dave Varco at www.2002parts.com. Dave is a great guy, and the kit was complete with all the parts listed above without the need to do any fabrication. There are other suppliers who provide kits, or you can make your own kit, but Trent chose Varco's kit because it is complete, priced right, and he happens to be a friend of Trent's. Rob, on the other hand used a DIY setup he pulled from an already-converted parts car, adding some of his own modifications (more on this later).
In terms of sourcing a good candidate five speed tranny, the best bet is to just head off to a local boneyard. There are no guarantees with a junkyard tranny, but when compared to the cost of a rebuilt one (at least $600-800 in parts and tools to rebuild yourself or at least twice to 3x that for a pro-built box.) Reputable '02 shops will sell you a known good box for around $350, but Trent chose to roll the dice on a boneyard tranny. He found one at a local yard on a "Half Price Day" for only $75. Even if it is junk, and he has to try again, I'm still saving a little bread for the trade-off of uncertainty and hassle of swapping in a second five-speed, but only if needed.
Check to make sure that the seals on your boneyard box are not "ovalized" as this is transferred into the metal housings. This will make it impossible to change the seals with out the new ones leaking. When you get the "new" tranny home, clean it thoroughly with your favorite solvent or degreaser, and order a complete seals kit for it from your favorite parts vendor.
You will also want to get a shifter rebuild kit ordered, as well as a new guibo and center bearing. In addition, you will need a new exhaust flex-sealing ring, clutch kit, e21 323 throwout bearing, new copper downpipe nuts, gasket, and possibly a new speedo cable, slave cylinder, and slave cylinder extension hose. [unfortunately, we do not have these part numbers right now, but a call to a knowledgeable parts house should give you the right parts. -Rob]
It might also be a good idea to use new guibo nuts and bolts, as these can be subjected to some flexing and metal fatigue over the years. A new set of large flywheel bolts (the ones that hold the flywheel to the crank) is also recommended, but make sure you get the right kind for the size of your flywheel (either 215mm or 228mm).
Drain the tranny with a 17mm hex tool or with one you made out of an old VW or similar lug bolt with a nut welded on the other end or a pair of nuts jammed together.
You will definitely want to change all the seals on the tranny itself. The fact is they tend to leak after so many years. This includes the rear main seal which requires a thin wall 30mm socket (use an impact wrench to air it off -- or have a shop do it) and change out the seal with a seal puller (or just have the shop do it).
Be very careful with the new seals. Put a thin layer of RTV on the outside and some moly grease on the inside edge for starter lubrication. When refilling it, there are a few options. Some prefer the standard GL-4 (non-hypoid) gear oil while others prefer synthetic gear oil like Redline MTL.
There is some controversy over synthetics, but rest assured MTL is a good choice, especially if you've gone to the trouble of using new seals. Even ATF can be used with good results. Be aware that some have reported new leaks with synthetics because they can actually clean out gunk that might have been stopping or slowing down leaking spots. Either way, fill the tranny to the point where it begins to come out of the fill hole, then put the plug back in. (Do this with the car or transmission leveled.
This is also a good time to rebuild the shifter linkage. All the plastic washers and joints should be replaced. (Check the FAQ Index for this one.) Remember to put back in the exact number in the exact location. This will give your shifter a nice tight feeling. These parts are shared on most BMWs and a good independent shop or dealer should stock them.
In terms of the conversion itself, the first thing you need to do is SAFELY elevate the car and put it on jackstands. Ideally you would pick a flat hard surface in a level location (such as inside your garage). If this is unavailable you can do it in the driveway, but make sure the e-brake is on (and working) and/or you have securely chocked up the rear wheels. Start by putting a 2x4 across the cradle of your floor jack to spread the weight a little and lift the car at the center of the front subframe. If you are on a soft surface (NOT RECOMMENDED!), use thick plywood or equivalent to keep the jack and stands from digging into the surface. Place the a couple more 2x4s on top of the stands and then position them under the stamped steel frame rails attached to the front floors of the car. Then, if you are on a flat surface, you can raise the rear of the car in similar fashion, placing the stands under each end of the rear subframe, just next to the mounts. Make sure the whole thing is rock-steady before crawling underneath! Use good quality stands and/or ramps because cheap ones can collapse! Remember: Safety First!
Once the car is safely in the air, the first thing to attack is the exhaust system. There are three bolts at the bottom of the exhaust downpipe that will allow you to move the exhaust out of the way. When you remove the down pipe from the manifold, you will need a new gasket. Trent didn't need to totally remove his because it is a custom job that runs under his rear subframe, but on stock cars you will need the room. If your downpipe nuts are rusted on try soaking them with Liquid Wrench and/or blasting them with a torch. If they are REALLY bad, you might need to cut the nuts off (ouch!) with a Dremel or similar tool. Then remove the four Guibo nuts and bolts. Remember to note their direction for reinstallation. Then remove the four bolts that bolt the driveshaft to the differential. Next, remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the center bearing to the tunnel. Watch your head because at this time the driveshaft might fall on it! Next, remove the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine block. Don't forget the stamped metal shield at the bottom of the bell housing, otherwise the tranny wont slide off the flywheel/clutch assembly. Support the rear of the transmission with a jackstand, and then remove the bolts holding the tranny crossmember to the tunnel. Having an assistant at this point is very handy. Next, unhook the linkage at the bottom of the shifter. Finally, carefully slide the tranny off and let it thud to the ground. (Maybe put a stack of magazines under it just to avoid chipping the garage floor-the tranny itself is resaleable if the synchros are still good. Or there is always fleaBay!)
Next, remove the old clutch/pressure plate by removing the bolts holding them to the flywheel. You may also want to have the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop, while you're in there replacing things. Make sure the shop knows to put a .020" "step" on the perimeter of the flywheel so that the pressure plate holds the clutch tight and centered with the intended amount of pressure. While the flywheel is being done, test fit the new tranny to the engine to determine how much and exactly where you need to clearance the tunnel for the slave cylinder. In most cases, a couple good whacks with a big hammer (try to use a non-marring "dead-blow" version) will move the sheet metal enough to make room for the new slave cylinder. Remember that motors move around during spirited driving, so a little "elbow room" is needed. Some kits (like the one from Varco) recommend that you put the slave on after the tranny is already in the car, but the opposite actually appears to be the easier way to do it. Make sure the bleeder valve is pointing down when you install the new slave!
At this point we recommend that you make or buy a tranny cradle for your floor jack. It will make your life a hell of a lot easier during the next stage of the conversion. One way is to take a piece of 2x6 wood and then screw or nail a couple of pieces of angle-cut 2x2 on each edge to create a kind of V shape that will steady the tranny enough for you to jack it into position. It is also very helpful to have a friend man the jack while you guide the tranny itself into position.
The five speed tranny is exactly 3.6" longer than the four speed it is replacing, which means we need to move the crossmember mounting tabs back in the tunnel exactly that amount. You will also need to shorten the driveshaft by this amount, or buy a kit with a shortened driveshaft in it. The Varco kit I used came with a new set of bolt-on tabs for moving the crossmember and also the shortened driveshaft. You can also cut the mounting tabs out of a donor car (e21 or 02 - it doesn't matter), then grind the tunnel metal off them and then either weld or bolt them to the tunnel in the correct spot. Remember that the elevation is as important as how far back you place the new tabs. To place the tabs with bolts, bolt the transmission to the motor with a couple of bolts and then attach the driveshaft by just snugging up a couple of those bolts too. Put a level on the bottom of the driveshaft on each side of the center bearing to make sure the angles are the same and the transmission is not positioned too high or too low. Take your time at this point because it is critical Drill the holes and bolt the brackets up.
Another way to solve the move-the-mounting-tabs problem is to do what Rob did and make a set of rails from some 1" angle iron from a hardware store (or old bedframe) and cut them to fit between the original four-speed mounting tabs and the center bearing mounting tabs further back in the tunnel. Then the cross member just attaches to the rails in the correct spot, while the elevation is just about spot-on perfect just by attaching the cross member directly to the bottom of the rails. If you need to, you can adjust the rear of the tranny down by using some big washers in between the crossmember and the rails, or even up with a little by stacking a (big) washer or two on top of the rubber tranny mount itself.
In Trent's case, drilling the holes for the new mounting tabs required pulling back the carpet inside and obviously drilling new holes in the tunnel. The rail method eliminates this alteration of the car's sheetmetal but requires more fabrication of the rails themselves from blank angle iron, as well as some grinding for clearancing the speedo cable. You may also need a little more hammering on the tunnel where the rails run from original crossmember mounting points and the center bearing mounts. Finally, the rails will not hit the original tabs "square" due to the change in elevation from original tranny mounts to center bearing mounts, but this is curable by either cutting the "L" of the angle iron to allow it to bend to fit, or just by tightening the bolts down really hard to force the mounting tabs to bend a little to meet the rails squarely. Its your call on what to do here, but since part of the point of the rail method is to avoid altering the car too much, Rob recommends bending the rails themselves.
Once everything is fitted correctly, disassemble everything and remount the flywheel and clutch. The flywheel bolts must be changed with new ones and then torqued to 75 lb.ft. Use a small amount of red locktite on the threads just for luck. Don't put too much because it affects the torque number you need to use due to its lubricating effect during installation. If your new clutch kit didn't come with a centering tool, you can cut the old input shaft off the four speed box and use that. Center the clutch, then carefully bring the new tranny into position. Spin the output flange while engaging the clutch splines to make it easier to engage them. Once all lined up, the tranny should just slide home and fit tight against the block. If it wont slide all the way home, pull it off and check for something in the way or not aligned correctly and try again.
After the transmission is bolted up, it is time to just finish up all the little things. The new speedo cable, wire up the reverse lights, bolt the driveshaft back up, re-install the shifter, put the carpet back (if needed), then take for test drive!
If you have any questions don't hesitate to post them to the Message Board. Trent would like to thank his dad for his help, and Dave @ www.2002parts.com for the kit and great advice!
For info on coverting an automatic-transmission 2002 to a manual five-speed, and thus saving the world, check out: This page!

gliding_serpent2
Many are referred to the "stance thread" for tire and wheel fitment questions (lots has been tried), but if you are like me you may be craving more.
For those looking to get a bit more technical, i have begun to compile some resources. Feel free to post more or critique and i will add it. Eventually i may even combine all of this into a FAQ article.
-John
--------------—-------------—----------
Want to compare your wheels to what was on the car bofore? Use this site http://www.willtheyfit.com/
Circa 2005 bimmerforums but it seems like good stuff.
This is also an invaluable resource on all the details of tires and wheels. The tire size and offset calculators are incredible, especially the calculator on page 4 that allows you to compare rolling diameter of two different tires.
The ultimate suspension article for the 02. This is circa 1987 but i still learn something new with every read. Very focused on performance driving, not just "stance." If you have not read this one yet, you are new, or need your head adjusted. I copied some tire and wheel appropriate info.
Our friends at Ireland Engineering have some excellent advise including backspacing tidbits...
The "stance thread" is too valuable of a resource to ignore, even if it's sheer size frusterates me. The original intent is excellent. If you posted in the thread, i would suggest you go back to your original post and update it. Especially in regards to details the original poster requested like offset, spacers, and how it held up over time (things always get softer). On way to use it well is to find a car with the setup you think you want, and message them for details. Tip: "fits" is a subjective term so beware.

Collinster742002
Original Author: Mike Skolones
Rebuilding the Getrag 232 Four-Speed Transmission
Parts Needed:
Transmission seals kit
Transmission gaskets kit
Transmission bearings kit

We are working on getting part numbers for all these parts and kits. There is also a lot of information about pulling and replacing the tranny itself in the Five Speed Conversion article (see Index).
[Editor's Note: This Article was put together from several of Mike's posts on Roadfly, and should not be taken so much as a "how-to" as a "what-to-expect" article. Although there is some very specific info here, you should secure access to a good shop manual and follow its instructions in light of the benefit of Mike's experiences as conveyed below.]
Introduction:
A while back the Getrag 232 4-speed transmission in my ’74 '02 bought the farm, and I decided I wanted to try rebuilding it on my own. Having done so, I am very satisfied with the results. The car was off the road for less than a month (barely), and it only cost me about $400 for new bearings, synchros and gaskets. I hate to estimate how much labor I put into the rebuild, but it's less than 100 hours, including time to design and fabricate tools necessary for disassembly and reassembly. The new transmission is much quieter than the old one, shifts smoothly, and so far doesn't leak!
Before you get started doing this, be aware that you could go through a whole STACK of used boneyard (cheap!) trannies (esp. 4-speeds) before coming close to the cost of doing this. However, just knowing that the thing IS rebuilt is satisfying, and there is hardly a finer pleasure than working with a fresh manual box. Besides, swapping trannies gets boring, I'm sure, after a while. Finally, although I have only done this to a 4-speed G-232, most of the following would also apply to the ever-popular G-245 five-speed conversion tranny (a bit more on this later).
Getting Started: Picking a core
In terms of picking the core for your rebuild, the obvious place to start is with the box you've got! However, there are a few other considerations. First, 1972 or newer units have stronger synchronizer sets. The older ones (up to sometime in '71, I think) had "Porsche" style synchronizers, which are inferior and might be NLA. The later, better, units had Borg-Warner synchros, which have the bonus of being much more common and easy to find. Second, make sure that the mainshaft (the output shaft) is not damaged where the output flange couples to it. Up to '76, the G-232 had coarse coupling splines, while the later, '76-up (inc. 4-speed 320is) unit had fine coupling splines. On the older, coarser, ones, the flange sometimes loosened up slightly and caused the splines to wear. If the tranny you are trying to rebuild has worn splines, you will need a new mainshaft--which is very expensive new, and if you find a used one in another tranny you may as well just rebuild that other tranny instead. To see if the mainshaft is worn, remove the coupling flange and pry out the seal; then inspect the splines where the flange slides onto the shaft. Look for the usual suspects in terms of wear: play, overly polished surfaces, etc.
When I finally got the box out of my '74 apart, I found that the (allegedly "rebuiltâ€) gearbox was actually a '68-vintage box with Porsche-style synchros and what seemed to be a new mainshaft. I think the "rebuild" (P.O.) job it was given was really only a mainshaft replacement, though they may have freshened the synchros (the Porsche-design synchros are marginal even when new). They certainly hadn't replaced the rear layshaft bearing, because it was the original ball-style bearing, not a roller bearing as is found in '71 and newer; any decent rebuilder would have updated the weak ball bearing with the later roller bearing, especially because it's a direct swap. It was this ball-style layshaft bearing that failed and caused the "thunk-thunk" when my car's gave up the ghost: The metal cage that keeps the balls separated in the raceways had come apart. A fellow '02er I had met on Roadfly was kind enough to have given me a spare 232-box as a possible core, and sure enough I decided to use that ('71 Borg-Warner synchro) box with the newish mainshaft from the '68 box that was in my 1974 car… (following me here? )
Fabricating Special Puller Tool
In order to actually disassemble the box, you will need to fabricate the special input shaft bearing puller I used, or buy the $400 item from BMW. If you've looked at one of these bearings (they are virtually identical to the rear stub axle bearings) you'll have noted that the balls are held separate by two-piece stamped steel carrier that prevents one from inserting anything through the bearing. I decided that the best approach would be to remove this ball carrier and make up "jaws†or pulling rods that fit into the bearing race.
If you do decide to try this method, be careful not to drill too far through the ball-carrier; first you will hit a shim or two, then the input shaft gear itself, which you don't want to drill.
To make the puller, I used ½†drill rod; 1" steel pipe; 5/8" all-thread; two 5/8" nuts; 1/8" drill rod (for pins); a bench grinder; a drill press, hacksaws and files, a vernier caliper and scales. The half-inch drill rod will make the 'jaws' they're not really jaws, more like keys that will lock in and allow the operator (that's you) to gently and surely pull the bearing off the shaft.
Picture the end of the jaw being a sphere equal in size to a bearing ball, but the sides of the sphere are ground flat so that you can insert the jaw through the bearing race gap. Once inside, you rotate the jaw 90 degrees so that the spherical surface of the jaw-end mates up with the bearing races. I cut two pieces to length and ground parallel flats in one end, width equal to the gap in the bearing race. Then using the grinder and files, shaped the key to fit the bearing. I had an extra bearing hanging around to use for measurements. The one-inch pipe is the "body" of the puller. Square steel tube would probably work better, but I didn't have any lying around. I drilled three holes in the pipe, one each for the puller jaw rods, one in the middle for the all-thread. I drilled 1/8" holes in the back end of each jaw rod for pins, and cut a suitable length of all-thread for the puller screw. A nut is secured to one end of the all-thread by drilling a hole through the nut and rod, then inserting a pin. I decided to continue using the channel-steel brace so as to support the input shaft against sideways forces, so I drilled two more holes in the channel to allow the puller rods to pass through them.
The BMW tool that accomplishes this same task but saves you from destroying the bearing you are trying to pull in the process of pulling it costs $400. The one bearing and a whole set of gaskets costs around $100, so if you're not in the business, the hand-fabbed tool is probably the best bet!
Some Reflections:
(0). The inner workings of BMW's gearbox (and many others, most likely) is easily the most beautiful and satisfying mechanical assembly on an ‘02. I've had my whole car apart over the years, and there is no comparison. A gearbox is one of the neatest things ever created. The machining and materials are stunning, and the rebuilding process is quite satisfying.
(1). Rebuilding the 232 is actually quite straightforward; it's simpler and easier than building a motor, IMHO. If you have decent mechanical skills, good patience, and you are organized, then refreshing a BMW transmission is feasible. Pay attention to how things come apart, and invest in one of the friendly shop manuals to help keep things straight.
(1.5) If major parts (shaft or gears) need to be replaced, try to find used ones. The gears are very hard and normal wear will not kill them, so used ones should be fine if you replace them in pairs. Otherwise the cost will outweigh the benefit.
(2). Shimming is the most interesting part. You shouldn't rely strictly on measuring tools for this; you should feel the effect of the shims as you go through the assembly, and decide for yourself whether the fit seems OK. (Professionals will probably laugh at this notion, but if you've never assembled a gearbox before you should pay close attention to how the assembly feels and behaves both before and after the rebuild. If it doesn't feel right to the hand, it probably won't work well when it's hooked up to a motor).
The manuals give you a method using a depth gauge, where you determine the necessary thickness of shims to capture the input shaft bearing, layshaft bearings, and mainshaft bearing. I did it with my homemade depth gauge and the vernier caliper, plus lots of trial-and-error assemblies to get a feel for the effect of different shimming techniques. With the gearbox in neutral there should be no real drag between the input shaft and the mainshaft. If there is drag, it's because the 4th-gear synchro clearance is incorrect, which will cause rapid synchro wear whenever you're not in 4th gear. I assembled and disassembled the tranny numerous times before I declared it finished; on several of these trials I installed only one component or another (e.g., input & mainshafts, no layshaft) to determine the fit of that component. In the end, you want the reassembled transmission to feel right to your hand. Things should spin freely, with minimal drag and noise, and absolutely no fore-aft slop in any shaft.
(3). Although special "factory" tools might make the job easier, as I described above, you can tool up for a 232 rebuild using only a decent gear-puller set (mine was $39 at Harbor Freight), some hardware-store drill rod, channel steel, and large C-clamps. The "factory" bearing extractor costs $400 and allows you to remove the bearing without destroying it. My homemade bearing puller requires one to destroy an old-style input shaft bearing (one with a metal ball carrier) in order to dismantle the transmission. If you rebuild with new-style bearings (they have a delrin or nylon ball carrier), you can remove/replace these numerous times without damaging the bearing. Unless you plan on building your own boxes for racing, and so will be tearing them down constantly, odds are you won't be trying to reuse the old bearings anyway. In my buildup I used the old scrap bearings for all of my trial shimming and assembling, then installed the fresh bearings only during final assembly.
(4). If you replace the rear seal in your 232 because the old one leaks, beware that there are two diameters of seal: the 38mm seal fits the old-style (coarse-splined) mainshaft, and the later mainshaft takes a slightly larger one (39mm? I'm not sure). If you just call and order a seal, odds are you will get the later one, which will never seal appropriately if applied to the earlier mainshaft.
I have to say, that the worst part of the whole effort (the part that caused me to swear the most) was putting the new tranny back in the car. I don't have a tranny jack, and the light weight of the 232 tempts one to bench-press it into place. It works, but it's not pleasant. Every other time I've had the tranny out on this car I've removed the motor as well; putting in the tranny from underneath easily qualifies as my least favorite operation. [A tranny jack is VERY easy to make¦ see the "Five Speed Conversion" article in this same section of the FAQ for more details. Ed.]
Finally, just some notes on the differences I have discovered between the 232 4-speed and 245 5-speed in terms of rebuilding them. I am not SURE about this, but they may be even easier to rebuild than the 4-speed. This is because you MAY not need to pull the input shaft bearing to split the case and take the tranny apart. The Close Ratio 5-speed (rare factory option) described in the Haynes manual does not require initial bearing pull to separate the cases, so I can only wonder about the Overdrive version).
GOOD LUCK with your own rebuild, and if you have any questions, please feel free to post them on the Message Board!

mlytle
Need to store or transport an M10? Need a way to support it on its side properly? Here you go. I spent a little time today putting together a wood stand that supports and M10 laying on its exhaust side. Then mounted it to a board with tiedowns that lays in the back of a pickup bed.
What you need:
Some 2x3 stud
Some 2x4 stud
3in drywall screws
Saw
Drill
Start with the studs and build this. All the measurements are in the pictures!

note the notches in the 2x4.

It fits against the engine like this:


The engine laying on it looks like this. engine is supported by the block. timing chain tensioner, exhaust manifold studs and flywheel are not under any load.


Then cut a sheet of plywood to fit your truck bed (I did 48x40in) and screw the stand to it.
Test fit engine for tie down locations:


And then bolt the tiedowns in with big fender washers to get this:

If you just want to store the engine, attach the stand form to one of those 3x2 furniture moving carts you can get at homer depot. Instant roller storage!

mlytle
for those with M2's or E30 M3's. step by step on doing valve lash adjustment.
I will skip the obvious that you have to pull the plug wires, valve cover and spark plugs off..
First you need tools.
Feeler gauges, micrometer, bmw valve bucket depressor tool, magnet-on-a-stick, small pick, air pressure source and bicycle pump nozzle, light, paper/pen and magnifying glass.

For each set of valves..
Rotate engine so that the lobes are pointing away from the valve shims

Measure the gap on both valves using feeler gauge.

Write it down. Helps to make a simple chart or spread sheet. Here is my chart.

Rotate the shim buckets so the notches are like this (use pick or small screw driver)

Insert bmw valve tool between valves. Make sure to use correct end of tool. Fat=intake, thin=exhaust.


Depress tool until it hits the valve cover. It will stay there by itself. Buckets are now depressed. Notice how the bucket notches rotated.


Use HP air to “blow” the shim out of the bucket. Not shown in pic’s, but place towel over the cam to catch the oil spray! The oil in there makes them stick, the air gets under the shim through the notch and breaks the seal.

Blow both out while you are in there, but only remove them one at a time so they don’t get mixed up!

Remove with the magnet tool.

The size is printed on the back of BMW shims, but measure to make sure. Write down the sizes on your chart.


Replace the shims. Make sure they are fully in the buckets.

Slowly release the bucket depressor tool. Do not remove this tool with no shims in the buckets.

Move on to next set.
If they gap is out of spec (.25-.35mm), you will need to change the size of the shim. Too big a gap means you need a thicker shim to take up the slack. Simple math will let you figure out the size.
If you have a shim selection available, put the right size shim in while you have them out. If not, calculate all the sizes you need and buy them at bmw or Volvo dealer….or BLUNT of course!!!

c.d.iesel
Shift points:

1st to 2nd gear upshift gear selector position "A"
Full Throttle = 26 mph
Kickdown = 40 mph
2nd to 3rd gear up shift gear selector position "A"
Full Throttle = 63 mph
Kickdown = 69 mph Oil Capacity:

Initial filling -= 4.65 liters / 4.9 Qts. (no oil cooler)
Initial filling - 5.2 liters / 5.5 Qts. (with oil cooler)
Adding oil = approx. 1.75 liters / 1.8 Qts
Oil amount between dip stick marks = 0.2 liters / 0.21 Qts.
oil change every 20,000 miles





change it every 2nd year, and
do not use synthetic

kcdonahue
Tools:
Small Hacksaw (Junior Hacksaw @ Homedepot)
Hammer
Large flat-tip screwdriver or Chisel
Overall this took me about 10 minutes once I finally got started. First remove the blade from the hacksaw and push it through the open section at the bottom of one of the hanger bushings. If you can not get it through on its own, a sharp knife should help. Next reassemble the hacksaw with the blade through the bushing. Now use the hacksaw to make some room by cutting the bottom nub of the bushing out. Next stabilize the diff hanger in a vice or by other means and begin to cut through the rubber and the steel outer sleeve making a notch that is almost all the way through (See Picture). Grab your hammer and chisel and bend in the outer sleeve as show in the picture. This will probably take three of four hits before the thin steel of the outer sleeve tears and the bushing falls out.

Collinster742002
Original Author: Sam Schultz
Tools and parts you will need:
High-lift jack
Medium- to high-lift jack stands
2 wheel chocks
10mm, 13mm socket and box wrench, extension, ratchet, and a swivel makes life easier but is not required.
WD-40 or similar
razorblade (to scrape old gasket)
NEW paper oilpan gasket and ultra grey sealent (Paper gaskets wont seep like the cork ones do). They are available at any independent shop but will have to be orderd. I can get them if you can't.
A solid 6x6 timber to go across the shock towers and body molding (make it a longer then you need so it won't slip). You should be able to use a 4x4 too, but this depends on how much you trust the lumber and/or value your life.
Some scrap 2x4s about 8" long
A piece of chain and 2 strong bolts with nuts and 4 heavy washers
A can of brake cleaner

Procedure:
OK pull the car onto some nice, level concrete (safest materal to work on) and chock the rear wheels (and use your e-brake). Drain the oil. While its draining pull the nuts off the engine mounts.
Remove the distributor cap (mark were its suposed to line up) keep the wires attached. This prevents the cap from brakeing on the fire wall when lifting the engine. Connect the chain to the REAR pickup point with one of the long bolts.
Lift the car on the center lift point (front sub frame). set the jack stands and remove the 3 bolts holding the end of the down pipe to the center section of the exaust. If the sealing ring isn't cracked, it can be re-used. Now you can pivit the engine without damaging the exaust. Drop the car back down some so that you can lift the engine higher, more easily.
Take your high-lift jack and put the 2x4 on it. Line it up sidways on the oil pan, i.e., across so that it passes beyond the sides of the oil pan. this prevents damage to the oil pan when you lift on it. CAREFULLY lift the engine with the jack. WATCH that the fan does not damage the radiator. Your rad hoses should have enough flex in them so you dont have to remove them. On one of the 2 cars I have done this on I did pull the fan off as it was going to hit.
Depending on your jack you may have to stop and attach the chain up and over the 6x6, now siting across the shock towers & fenders, and run the chain to the front atachment point (install with 1 bolt the other being on the rear). Watch that you dont lift too far and damage the fire wall or slip off the oil pan. I always stop perodicly and adjust the chain on the 6x6 as a safety measure.
OK now that the engine is lifted and supported by the 6x6 you can jack the car back up and return it to the jack stands. Now it makes sence as to why I had you drop the car due to the angle on the engine doesnt it. At this point stop for a drink (preferably non-alchololic), while you are at it get me one too.
Next, undo all the 10mm oil-pan bolts. You will have to fenagle the pan down around the front subframe. If you have to you can drop the front subframe (17mm bolts) but dont let its weight be supported by the hardy disk (rubber disk on steering box).
Clean up the mating surfaces with the razorblade and wipe down with some brake cleaner on a rag. Clean the oil pan itself with the brake clean to get out any sludge and let dry. Also clean the bolts at this point as they are usualy nasty. This is also a good time to paint the oil pan (outside only!) if you are feeling so inclined.
I personaly dont like to mess with the oil pump or tube removal unless I have to, but if you are feeling ambitious you can take the time to check the oil pump, the torque on your crank nuts (sorry I dont have that spec), and even to check main and rod bearings. If you don't already know what this all means, make sure you research thoroughly before proceeding.
Once the pan is dry, take the ultra gray and put a fine line going aound the pan. then place the paper gasket on top of it (please make sure the holes line up). Next put a thin line of ultra gray on top of the gasket. You do not need to spreed the ultra gray out as when it meets the block this will happen naturaly and will fill in the holes better. The ultra gray keeps the gasket from sliding and fills in any imperfections in the metal.
Get the bolts ready and load one in the wrench. Lift and hold the pan with one hand in place and put the bolts in. Drop the engine in reverse order of how you lifted it, connect everything, change the oil filter and add the 20W50. Now that everyhting is done go for a test drive to the store and buy the beverage you were wanting this whole time. Enjoy an afternoon well spent!
Good luck! If you have any questions or comments about this or any article, please feel free to post them to the Message Board!

Collinster742002
Written by John Aho Monday, 05 September 2005
Installing Exhaust Manifold or Header Studs
By John Aho
Studs are designed to be fitted only "finger-tight" into their threaded hole in a casting. However, a locking type of nut (PTN, or prevailing torque nut) is often specified to go on the stud. These two facts present an inherent dilemma. The grip of the PTN on the stud can easily turn the stud when you don't want it to (how often have you removed an exhaust manifold nut and had the stud come out at the same time?)
With this in mind, the installer may be tempted to over tighten the stud into the hole, to make certain it stays put. This mistake happens a couple of ways: Either the stud gets torqued after it bottoms in the hole, or the stud's shoulder (unthreaded section in between the threaded ends) jams into the surface at the edge of the hole. Some studs have no shoulder (all thread), and some holes have no bottom (through hole). This allows for another problem: with nothing to stop it, the stud can insert too deep.
So, why is it wrong to tighten the stud into the hole? Unfortunately, I have even seen it done by supposed "professionals". The way a stud can outperform a bolt in clamping efficiency has to do with the even distribution of stress across the engaged threads. If you torque a stud into a blind hole, you lose that benefit, and concentrate stresses at the first thread in the hole. If you torque the shoulder of a stud against the edge of a threaded hole, you lose the benefit & usually distort the mating surface. It's not as if there is a suitable bearing surface to take the load. Just don't do it.
Loctite threadlocker is the answer for securing the stud (for most of our situations), but it's worthwhile to look at the design intent of the purely mechanical fit. Studs require a "fit classification" that provides a very close fit. Common American thread classes include #2 (free fit, general application) and #3 (very close fit). Classes #4 & 5 are actually interference fits, and you won't find them readily available.
Metric thread fits are classed differently, using a number to designate "tolerance grade", and a letter to indicate "fundamental deviation" (upper case letter if internal thread). When a class of fit must be provided for mating threaded parts, the tolerance symbols of the internal thread is shown first, then a forward slash, followed by the external thread's symbols (for example, 5H/4h). Basically, ISO metric "6" approximates a UNF class #2 fit. The metric range also includes 4 & 5 (closer) and 7 & 8 (looser). The letter H or h indicates deviation allowance = none.
You can get a decent "ball park" on fit class by the feel of threads engaging, but to really measure it is much harder. The major diameter (O.D.) of the stud's thread is not the primary determining factor for class of fit. The pitch diameter (an imaginary cylinder located where the thread width is equal to the space between adjacent threads), which requires a special "thread micrometer" or the 3-wire system to measure, determines the class of fit. The bottom line is you should try to only use metric steel studs designated as 4h. Good luck finding them.
The '02 parts book shows M8 x 40 studs, but the length used can vary from 38 to 45 mm depending on availability and/or thickness of the header flange. Be sure to select studs with a shoulder. Customarily, metric steel studs have their nominal length (which protrudes) less than their overall length by approximately 1.25 x diameter. This would mean about 10 mm of thread goes into the head. The last BMW studs I got had about 15 mm to thread in the head, which is even better. The blind holes on the bottom row of the exhaust side are about 20 mm deep, so you won't bottom out as long as you put in the correct (short) end. There's some decent manifold studs used by other manufacturers, if you look around. The Saturn cars use the same size, and have a feature on the outer end that is made to fit a female E-7 torx socket.
So what does all this mean to me when I've got an exhaust stud backing itself out of a buggered hole on a 2002 head? You will have to clean out the hole completely to get the Loctite compound to work properly. Getting this done on the car, with the manifold still in place, is a pain. Even with the exhaust out of the way, the top row of stud holes go right through into the head, making them very hard to get clean & dry.
To proceed: the loose studs will come right out, and you can "double-nut" to remove the rest.
Take off the valve cover and blot away the oil around where the top four threaded holes go through.
Carefully use a proper thread chaser to clear out any old threadlocker or other crud.
Clear out the debris you've just shoved into the head before it washes down into the sump.
Use an aerosol can of brake cleaner to wash out the threads, use a rag pushed tight up against the inside of each through hole to prevent solvent/debris from getting inside.
Please Note: The Loctite compound will only work if you do a good job getting things clean & dry. Follow the instructions that come with the product. Try to find Loctite 262 (a bearing supply house will stock it), otherwise use the readily available 271. Again, use as directed: just one drop on each clean, dry, new stud as they go in.

After the Locktite has set, reinstall the exhaust with new gaskets, and torque the 8 new copper plated steel PTN to 30 Nm (22 ft lb).
If you have any questions please post them to the Message Board!

c.d.iesel
Original Author: c.d.iesel
After you remove all the SMOG krap , fit a new mechanical advance distributor, adjust valves, test compression, new plug wires, plugs, ignition timing set using a TIMING LIGHT , change all the fluids, wash and detail the car (that's good for a few more HP's!), and my WEBER 32/36 Jetting Prescription (actually over the counter and CHEEP!)your MPG and performance should improve.
Please purchase ANY How To Tune WEBER carburetor book, many are found right on the Automotive selves of Barns & Noble , or other major book sellers.
The WEBER Tuning book that Pierce Manifold offers is excellent.
www.piercemanifolds.com
...my WEBER prescription:
32/36
Float Level 40mm
PRIMARY
idle 60
main 140
air correction 145
SECONDARY
idle 55
main 170
air correction 175
AND -PLUG THE SECONDARY ENRICHMENT HOLE AT THE TOP OF THE CARB AS MY DIAGRAM SHOWS . DON'T ASK WHY- JUST DO IT AND SEE THE HUGE DIFFERANCE IN ACCURATE FUEL METERING THROUGH OUT ALL RPM AND THROTTLE OPENINGS.




Collinster742002
Original Author: c.d.iesel
How to perform a compression test?
ALUMINUM HEADS? loosen the spark plugs when cold, and snug up to warm up the motor
remove all the plugs
battery must be fully charged and starter motor spinning like mad
disconnect your ignition primary - even more important if you have a HugeBox-o-Transistor mega-spark system
also for all of you with powered fuel pumps and injection systems - de-power yer pumps so the possibility of FIRE is eliminated!!
hold the throttle fully open during cranking
valve clearance should have been adjusted first- COLD - only crank each tested cylinder 4 revolutions
record each of the 4 pulse readings of each of the 4 revolutions
the 1st pulse of the needle should be more than 1/2 of the 4th pulse
for example, if 185 is the target: 30-60-90-120= there's a leak all the time and uniform in size like a burnt valve, or severly burned out head gasket
90-100-110-120 = that cylinder is sealing up to a point but begins to leak - rings, leaking head gasket....
120-145-165-185 = is normal
adding a little oil to a weak cylinder and re testing will only show some sealing by the rings - but indicate a direction to look
...next proceed to the Cylinder Leak Test


Collinster742002
Original Author: Bill Williams
My youngest and wrestled for 3-4 hours using a rolling transmission jack. After a long while and not doing anything differently than we had been doing before, it just slipped in - happy - but tired and frustrated. This and aligning a hood are the two main reasons I mate the motor and transmission to the sub-frame before I put them in a car. Mating a transmission really sucks sometimes.
However, if you do mate a transmission to the motor while the motor is in the car: 1. Get the clutch plate and the pilot bearing lined up. The best way is to use an old input shaft from an old transmission, second best is to use one of those plastic tools.
2. Have a strong patient helper.
3. Turn the wheels to get the center link out of the way.
4. Make sure the throw out bearing is oriented correctly. Ears of the throw-out bearing on the release arm, not in the slots.

5. Get the tranmission on a good secure jack, rent a transmission jack, balance on a floor jack, or use an ATV jack.
6. Put the transmission in gear so you can rotate the rear shaft to line that part up.
7. Polish the tip of the transmission input shaft so it will slide easily into the pilot bearing.
8. Do the stud trick to help hold the transmission up while you play with aligning it. The stud trick is to take some bolts that fit the upper mounting holes on the block, cut the heads off, slot them and insert them in the holes. These studs will support, hang the transmission, while you align it. Fix the other bolts, then use a slotted screw driver and back these out and replace the proper bolts.
9. If and only if you think you have it lined up and you can just not push it on, take longer bolts, start them and see if cranking the longer bolts just "pulls" the transmission and the motor together. I had to revert to this one time when the motor and transmission was on the floor. If this works, take the longer bolts out and replace with the proper ones.
You can see the stud trick here.

Bonus points: When installing a transmission: a new pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk, throw-out bearing, resurfaced flywheel, new flywheel bolts or use Loctite on old ones, should be used.
Resurfaced flywheel with step. Mark the timing BB while you are at it.


Collinster742002
Original Author: Bill Williams
Mike taught me a way to bleed the clutch system on a five speed that makes things pretty simple.
Get a pump type oil can from your local hardware,dedicate it to brake fluid. Put a section of tubing on it that fits the spout on the oil can and the bleeder screw.
Fill the can with your favorite brake fluid, connect the tubing to the bleeder screw, crack the bleeder screw open and start pumping.
Have an assistant watch your reservoir to let you know when the reservoir is full and no bubbles.
Close the bleeder screw.
Bob's your uncle.