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Information on modifications and repairs to Body and Interior of your BMW 2002 and Neue Klasse car. Hoods and bonnets, trunks and boots, fenders and wings. Submit an Article if you have something to share.
dasfrogger
What you need:
Dry ice: 20-50 lbs. While you can do the job with 10-20 lbs, the more you have the quicker it'll go. It's worth the extra money. I used 40 lbs.
Hammer: ball peen is the way to go. A heavy dead blow hammer was also particularly effective.
Razor knife
Razor scraper
Safety glasses
Shop vac
Pillow case/nylon drawstring bag: 1 for every ten lbs
Thick gloves: dry ice will give you frostbite and a chemical burn if you handle it with unprotected skin. Be careful and don't let it ruin your day.
Step 1: use your razor knife to score lines in the tar. Make sure to press hard as to cut as far thru the tar as possible - this makes life easier later. Cut lines horizontal then vertical across creating squares. The smaller the better - but still a decent size piece maybe 3x3 or so. Go ahead and cut all the tar in your car now and be done with it.
Step 2: take 10 lbs or so of your dry ice and put it in your bag and seal it up. Use your hammer to break it into small bits - think the size of refrigerator ice cubes or a little bigger.
You can use the solid slabs of ice, but they aren't as effective on curved areas like trans tunnel.
Step 3: place your bag on the tar. Work dry ice bits out evenly over the area.
Step 4: Let sit for 25-30 minutes. Use this time to walk the dog, enjoy The weather, work on another part of your project, or something else that's awesome. PRO TIP: nestle a few bottles of your favorite beverage on the ice and come back to ice cold goodness.
Step 5: STOP! ... HAMMER TIME! Time to hammer the crap outta the frozen tar. I found that if you give the tar lots of little taps all across the tar it helps to free the tar and leave you less clean up later. The give some good whacks and the sections will start to pop up leaving clean painted metal. Use your shop vac to clean up the small shards/dust left behind. If you run into a piece on the fringe of your area covered by your bag that doesn't willingly pop up you can scrape under it to free it - but I'd suggest re freezing it and then hammering to leave less clean up. ***Don't forget to wear your safety glasses. I don't know about you but frozen tar in my eyes doesn't sound like fun. ***
Step 6: once all the big pieces are up use your razor scraper to remove what's left over. I've heard WD-40 helps at this stage but didn't try it myself. Of course, if the colder the better.
Voila! You're done! Now clean up the rust that you've uncovered with a abrasive wheel and POR-15 and recover with your choice of sound deadening and carpet!

steve k.

Frame Rail Repair

By steve k., in Body and Interior,

A while back I found a lot of rust in my drivers side frame rail. It seems that at some point in its life the car had a brake fluid leak around the master cylinder or reservoir area. The fluid entered the frame rail from the top and the rust process began.
The frame rails for our beloved cars are still available, but at around $300 each. Or you can find some solid ones of the cars that were crashed or rusted out in other areas. The other option is making a patch as described in this article.
The procedure is not too complicated if you know how to use a grinder and a welder. A little muscle is required to bend the metal and swing the BFH. Required Materials:
16 to 20 gauge sheet metal Cardboard Undercoat Paint Rust Neutralizer  
Required Equipment:
Air hose or compressed air in a can Pencil Scissors Grinder Welder Vise Angle Iron x2 2x6 Piece of wood Clamp BFH* Small Hammer Metal Sheers  
Optional Equipment:
Plasma Cutter Second Pair of Hands  
 
Frame Preparation
Clean the frame rail from most of the rust and undercoat paint by using the grinder. Make sure to wear eye protection. Find out how far your rust goes. If rust extended to the reinforced section above the front subframe patching the frame might not be a good solution and a replacement frame rail should be in order. After you are done grinding and polishing hit the frame with a hammer a couple times to loosen the rust and dirt inside. Not too hard, you don’t want to bend it. Get an a air hose and blow the dust out of the rail. When it nice and clean spray the frame with rust neutralizer. Try to get some inside the frame too. If the holes in it are as big as they were in mine, you should have no problems doing it.
Template
While the neutralizer is drying you can start on the patch. Grab a piece of cardboard, a pencil and a pair of scissors and start cutting. The plan is for you to make a patch out of cardboard that will look exactly like the one you’ll be making out of that sheet of metal.
 
Patch
Once the template is complete and you are satisfied with the fit it's time to move on to the fun portion of this program. Trace the template on the metal and cut it out. Make sure you are tracing all the cuts and the bends on the inside. This way you won't get confused later on.
 
Place the future patch in the vise at the bend line between two pieces of angle iron. Remember which way it needs to be bent and use the BFH* and a 2x6 pound it to correct shape. Do one bend at a time. It will not be perfect but it will be pretty good for a banged up job. Make sure to have long enough cuts to allow for a good 3D bend.
 
Once you are finished with the patch place it on the frame rail and with a help of another person finish the bends for an almost perfect fit.
   
Weld the patch in its place. Do a couple tack welds first. This will allow you to bang it a little more into a better fit. Remember, the better it fits the stronger your frame rail will be. After the tack welds are done and the fit is good finish welding the rest of the seams.
 
Let it cool and spray with the undercoat. You are done! Give your helper a hi-five and another beer. Grab one for yourself.
 
*BFH = Big Fucking Hammer
Thanks to Rob Torres, Jr. of 2002 Haus., who did all the actual work on this frame rail.
If you have any questions, feel free to post them to the Message Board!
 

hegedus
Written by Richard Stern Saturday, 17 September 2005 Adjusting the Window regulator Adjusting the Window regulator
By Richard Stern
If your front side windows don’t shut fully there may be a cheap easy answer before buying a second-hand window regulator as new ones are NLA
Tools required:
Large flat blade & Phillips screwdrivers Block of wood 10mm socket or spanner Old wire coat hanger Some spare plastic door panel clips  
Instructions:
With the wire coat hanger, poke out the disc from the quarter light knob, by poking it through the hole at the back of the knob & push out the blanking disc way from the door, this will expose the screw holding the knob on – Remove. Remove all screws holding the door handle rest, carefully pry off the top chrome surround to expose top screw. Plastic insert on door handle also pushes off away from the center. With all handles and winders removed, carefully pull lower part of door panel away from door, there are plastic clips that will properly break, but they are cheap & easy to replace. Keep going all around the door working to the top until all clips are dismantled. Door panel should now lift upwards; it might need some wriggling. Loosen the 3x 10mm bolts holding the window winder to the regulator. Temporarily put the window winder handle on, & wind the window fully up. Either pull window up with your hands to gain another 5mm or so. Or use a block of wood & place it in the bottom of the door. Wind the window down onto the wooden block & then give it an extra quarter of a turn. Tighten the x3 10mm screws. The window should now wind up fully. Refit is reverse of the removal process, replacing any broken clips where necessary.  
Please post any questions or comments to the Message Board!

AustrianVespaGuy
Basically, you have three options for this project in terms of budget:
- $$$: If you're baller, you can just buy brand new door panels straight from Aardvark Racing, and just pop the old ones off and the new ones on: http://www.2002parts.com/bmw/door-panels.html
- $$: This is the route I went, using the much more affordable door panel rebuild kit from Aardvark, cleaning up and reusing my old vinyl: http://www.2002parts.com/bmw/door-panel-kit.html
- $: For the true DIYer, you could cut your own new plywood panels using the old fiberboard cards as templates.
The first step of course is to remove the door panels. Since 75% of all of my clips were broken, this was easy for me. If that's not the case for you, you'll need something nice and flat and wide to help pop the clips out of the door. Once it's free, the whole thing lifts straight up (though it's a bit of a tight fit, so may take some coercion) at the top by the window and comes out.

(Yuck! If yours also looks like this, then you should definitely be doing this job too!)
Once it's out, you can begin taking out all of the staples that hold the vinyl to the old card and then peel the covering off of the card. It's glued down in strips with some sort of thin fibrous fill in between and can get a bit messy, but my came apart without much fuss:

(old card)

(old covering)
From here you'll need to finish removing any of the fill material that's still left on the back side of the vinyl, and also remove the trim hardware from the old card. There should be 4-5 clips that hold on the strip of window felt and the chrome trim along the top, and the black steel top molding has bent tabs that go through the door card to hold it in place. I just kind of ripped it out of the old card first and then unbent the tabs, but this might not be so wise if you need the old card more or less in tact to use as a pattern if your cutting your own new boards. Make sure not to loose any of the upper trim clips!
Now time to clean up that old grungy vinyl! I picked up this leather cleaning kit from Advance Auto and it sure seemed to work well for me:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/turtlewax-deep-cleaning-leather-kit-t480kt/10611292-P?searchTerm=leather+cleaner
Now for reassembly, I started with installing the black upper molding to the new door panel. Being thicker the securing tabs didn't really go all the way 'through' the wood, but once inserted I managed to spread them enough with some nose pliers so that they gripped well enough to hold everything together:

Then, I used some thin quilting fleece and glued it to the back of the vinyl with 3M spray adhesive to replace the now-shredded original fill material. This gives just a little bit of loft and softness to the vinyl, which I think is worth having, but isn't strictly necessary:

Finally, it's time to install the vinyl cover onto the new door card. I started with gluing the top of the vinyl in place over the steel molding to keep everything in place. Then, I put the chrome trim pieces back on reusing the old clips, and then snapped the window felt back into the clips also:

Once everything is in place up top, just start gluing the vinyl/felt to the front of the panel. I chose to glue the whole thing, assuming that if and when I ever need to do this job again, the vinyl won't have enough life left in it to be reused any more and I'll just need to pop for new ones. Again, I like the same 3M spray adhesive that I used for carpet and headliner gluing:

Now is a good time to cut holes through the felt so that the door hardware (handle, window winder, vent knob, etc.) can all poke through properly, and then the finishing touch is to wrap all of the sides of the vinyl around and glue them down to the back of the panel. I just stuck with the glue again here and didn't bother with staples, but you could re-staple the sides too if preferred:

It is WELL worth the extra $13 to get the new clips from Aardvark instead of trying to salvage the old ones, especially because you can leave the old clips in the old card to help you figure out which locations they all go into (there are more holes in the panels than there are clips). They just twist in by hand and then you can pop the finished door panel back on the door! I found it easiest to do with the window down; get the top pressed down into the top of the door first until all of the clips line up with the holes. Remember to fish the door lock pin up through the hole in the top of the panel when installing, which unfortunately is probably the trickiest part of the whole job, but once you have it through the grommet and the top seated, you can go around the perimeter and pop all of the clips home into the door.

And that's it! Re-install all of the door handle hardware, grab a good bier, and be proud of your excellent handiwork!


Artcop
The BMW 2002 sunroof models enjoy the perfect combination of open air and security. Designed before wind tunnels and coefficient drag ratios were considered, it was placed squarely over and *in front* of the driver's view. Peripheral vision included whatever is happening in the sky overhead as opposed to modern day sunroofs which are positioned over and slightly behind the driver due to a raked roofline. When new, the sunroof option cost an additional $276, which doesn't seem much for a car with a base price of $2850 in 1972 dollars (some didn't even come with a radio or air-conditioning, so BMW 2002 first-buyers must have been a frugal bunch). That said, sunroofs are also probably the leading cause of rust as these models get older and the drain tubes get clogged or the car is inert for long periods of time outdoors.
When I began researching this operation I didn't find much, if any, information or how-to's via Google or my club contacts. A few offered the 'cut and weld at the pillars' idea, but the more informed ones warned of weakening the overall structural integrity by taking shortcuts. I agreed. What made the most sense was to do it as if it was factory original by cutting away and replacing the roof skin over the unibody skeleton.
Clearly it's a tedious procedure and requires fortitude and determination, but it's no more difficult than replacing a quarter panel- in fact, in some ways it's easier.
In terms of retrofitting a Golde sunroof to a BMW 2002, this isn't the only way or the best way to go. It's just how I did it. I made mistakes and recorded them as well- I hope it helps your effort. Be sure and read the whole thing before starting because I made some 'discoveries' that will save time if you take them into account beforehand :-)
Tools and things you'll need:
1. Cutting/Grinding tool with about 10 or 15 cutting discs and a grinding disc.
2. At least two 3/16 DeWalt Pilot Point Impact-ready drill bits (SKU# DD5012). Trust me on this. Regular drill bits will wear out fast and test your patience. I’ve done a bit of this before with quarter-panels, and drilling out the spot-welds and separating the skin on two roofs (yours and the donor) will be the most tedious and time consuming part of this process. I’ve tried several brands and types and these held up well and consistently punched through fast. Also a 3/4" drill bit.
3. A stiff spreader blade for wedging between and separating the metal between spot welds. If you can’t find a better tool more suited to this purpose as I couldn’t, get a couple- these will get trashed as you hammer on them. Spot welds have an annoying habit of holding fast while all the surrounding metal gets split, bent, and torn. Be patient!
4. Acetone or some good paint solvent.
5. A decent welder or a friend who has one and can use it better than you can (clearly, my welding skill is amateur-level)
6. POR15 spot patch (http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/por-15-paint-products-c-1435.aspx) and POR15 paint.
7. a tube of Blacktop Filler (Lowe's Hardware) that fits in a caulk gun. I liked this because it will dry flexible.
8. 3/4"ID and 5/8"ID plastic tubing. 7 or 8 feet of each. More would be better. (CHECK ON THIS)
8. other typical hand tools like pliers, a small wide-blade crowbar, etc.

I began by cutting the old roof skin out with the cutting tool close to the edges of the drip rails and front and rear window openings.

You can go ahead and cut further down on the A and C pillars than I did at first at this time if you're comfortable doing that.

You can see there's a place on the roof skeleton underneath the top of the rear side windows that protrudes up and out to the edge of the driprail. I cut through this by accident, but filled it back up with POR patch. :b

When it came to separating the old roof skin from the drip rails, I sacrificed the roof skin to try and keep from mangling the lower part on the roof frame. Some welds I drilled out, some I simply ground down with the cutting disc or grinding disc.

I came back and cut further down the A pillars (check your clip to make sure you have enough to cover the area) so that the length of the repair would be as small as possible.

After I cleaned up the area on the car I'd cut away, I got to work on the clip.

Here, I worked to salvage the other side of the driprail- sacrificing the bottom part to keep the top part as smooth as possible.

There's no quick and easy way to drill out the welds, you'll just have to be patient and do them one by one. It helped to reveal where they were hidden underneath several layers of paint by rubbing some Acetone on the area until enough paint was removed to show the spot welds.


You'll want to be careful with these support brackets and cut around them to separate the sunroof part. These will need to be cleaned up and welded to the inside roof structure of the car.




I shielded the roof skin from the cutting disc by wedging my crowbar in between and using it as a stop.

The old skeleton parts should separate easily once all these areas are cut.


Go ahead and cut away the slicktop cross beams and open that baby up. Ahhhh...

Now lay the sunroof section on top of the car to test the fit.


Since your car didn't come with a sunroof, you'll need to add the drain tubes. Remove the front fenders and drill about a 3/4in. hole just in front of the rear (vertical) wing support. Feed the tube bottom to top by using a straight metal rod (I used a headliner bow) through the A pillar and alternate shoving/pushing the tube up through the small passageway. It will take some messing about to figure out what I mean, but take your time- it will work.



The side with the antenna mount (in my case the passenger side) will take a bit more patience. Loosen the lower mount to clear the passage a little.

The passenger side did not have a pre-drilled hole in the A-pillar to pass the draintube through the top, so you'll have to create one.


Next, I squeezed out some Blacktop Filler on the roof frame to mate the sunroof section.


You'll need to carefully bend the side brackets on the sunroof in a little to make them fit inside the car roof frame. They're going to bend back out after you do that, so be careful how far you go. They won't break, but once they're bent they're bent.

Check fit all around after you've got the new rood settled in place.

This was tricky. I waited to cut the A-pillar overhang after the roof settled to make sure I didn't cut too much. In doing so, I melted a bit of the drain tubes- luckily, I'd left plenty of extra on the bottom to shove up through the passage and replace that burnt part :b Obviously, you can make the final cuts to fit the roof *before* you secure it so you can work in the draintubes.. I have no idea at the moment why I didn't do it that way. Just leave plenty of extra tube at the bottom and be careful welding over the A-pillar sections after the tube is up in there.

The rear tubes are a no-brainer

After you're satisfied with the fit, start spot welding the roof in place. Use some POR patch to fill any gaps, and be sure and wait the full 96 hours for it to cure. It will be hard as a rock- literally, but you can sand it down easily with an orbital sander and some 80-grit.
Now you can begin the grinding, Bondo, block-sanding phase to blend the new roof into your car.

AFTERTHOUGHTS:
I've had really good luck with 3M Body Panel Adhesive (3M#8115) gluing areas of the quarter panels, etc.. It boasts 4000lbs. of twist strength, dries rock-hard, and you can sand it down with a rotary disc sander if needed. It's used by new car manufacturers on non-structural body parts- sometimes in addition to welding (but not overlapping the two as the adhesive is flammable). If welding is not an option, I wouldn't hesitate to substitute this stuff- although I will add that I have not tried any competitive products that make the same claims. Make sure you have plenty of clamps and give it the full cure time.

mlytle
I have gone through a few heater valves. guts break, replace whole valve with another used valve, repeat. enough.
this time i bought a rebuild kit from BLUNTTECH. why buy a new valve when the brass part does not wear out, the kit includes EVERYTHING but the brass shell. rebuild is a VERY simple process.
so what do you need for this job?
old valve
rebuild kit
flat blade screwdriver
phillips head screw driver
7mm wrench
small pick
brass cleaner
dremel with wire wheel
NOTE - this is just the rebuild of the later "big" heater valves and does not include the removal or install of a valve.
the kit and the broken valve

remove two screw with flat blade, take cover off.


now use 7mm wrench to unbolt control arm from back

remove broken guts

old and new guts. new looks much stronger.

very important part here. main reason these valve fail (at least from all the ones i have taken apart) is that the inside of the valve corrodes in one spot becoming rough. particulary true if the valve sits in one open or closed position for a long time. the plastic guts then hang up on the corroded area of the shell and break.
clean the inside of the brass shell until nice smooth and shiny. i used some 600grit and a dremel wire wheel to do this, then polished with metal polish like ibis or brasso.

now assemble the guts


don't forget the o-ring on shaft

i used a little teflon grease on all the parts.

assemble


now grab the cover. remove old o-ring with pick

same cleaning and polish rule applies to cover

install new o-ring

okay now put cover on the valve. note the position and alignment of the guts and the arrow on the cover.

use the new screws and lock rings to assemble (new parts are phillips heads)

put the control arm back on with 7mm wrench. don't forget the little washer.

note position of arm and open/closed valve. we are looking at the HEATER end of the valve in these picks.




DONE!
bagged up and ready for install at a later date.


hegedus

Odometer Repair

By hegedus, in Body and Interior,

Written by Curt Ingraham Tuesday, 06 June 2006
If your speedo still works, but the odometer has stopped paying attention, you have the classic 2002 odometer failure. You can take it to a speedo shop and pay $75-150 for a repair, or pick up a used instrument cluster at a swap meet or salvage yard for less than half that. Chances are, if you are skilled with tools and patient, you can fix it yourself for free.
The back of the instrument cluster.
Repair Instructions:

Here is a lollipop stick being used to drive out number wheel shaft.
Please note: I had previously advised fixing gear to shaft with super glue, but that repair doesn't last nearly as long as the distortion method above.
Curt Ingraham
72 tii
Oakland
*Images courtesy of: John Mills
1. Remove instrument cluster from dash.
2. While speedo is still in cluster, loosen big nut on back of speedo.
3. Remove speedo from cluster. Handle carefully. Resist temptation and do not touch needle or face.
4. Remove big nut and washer from back of speedo.
5. Remove speedo from back plate.
Notice that:

a) Speedo cable input on rear drives speedo;
Shaft from speedo to odo drives odo number wheel shaft;
c) Odo shaft drives a big aluminum-colored gear at the end of the odo number wheel stack;
d) Odo is not turning because that big gear is slipping on the number wheel shaft;
e) Number wheel shaft is held in position by friction with big gear. 6. Gently slide the number wheel shaft back and forth a very small amount to verify that it is loose.
7. Find a temporary replacement shaft of slightly smaller diameter, such as a nail or machine screw.
8. Replace number wheel shaft with temporary shaft as follows:

a. Identify end of number wheel shaft withOUT the gear.
b. Place end of temporary shaft against end of number wheel shaft.
c. Slowly and carefully press temporary shaft in, forcing numberwheel shaft out.
d. At this point, temporary shaft is in, numberwheel shaft is out, and numberwheels are still in place. 9. Locate position on numberwheel shaft where big aluminum-colored gear normally sits. A polished band likely exists there. Verify gear location by holding shaft against numberwheel frame.
10. With a center punch or cold chisel make a very light impression on shaft at gear location. This distortion should be large enough to fit tightly in gear, but small enough to pass through numberwheels using finger pressure.
11. Try replacing numberwheel shaft in odo frame. Keep numberwheel shaft end against temporary shaft end.

a. If numberwheel shaft won't go through odo frame or is tight in numberwheels, distortion is too large. File slightly.
b. If numberwheel shaft slides all the way in easily, distortion is too small. Punch it again.
c. When distortion is just right, shaft will stop sliding when distortion reaches gear, and will not go into gear with finger pressure.
d. Use channel-lock pliers or a small vise to press shaft firmly into position in big gear. Leave a very small gap between odo frame and small brass gear at other end of shaft. 12. Verify that numbers on numberwheels align correctly with rectangular hole in speedo face.
13. Remove shaft between speedo and odo by removing one screw. Turn numberwheel shaft with fingers and verify that wheels turn smoothly, and ten's digit advances when one's digit goes from 9 to 0. Replace speedo-to-odo shaft.
14. Replace back plate, washer, and nut (finger tight) on back of speedo.
15. Clean speedo face with careful puffs of canned air. (If more cleaning is needed, use water and lens tissue.)
16. Replace speedo in cluster, engaging trip odo reset shaft.
17. Reassemble cluster.
18. Tighten big nut on back of speedo, noting alignment of speedo face.
19. Reinstall cluster in dash.
20. Test speedo and odo.
21. Reinstall underdash panels.

adawil2002
Here they are, unburied from earlier posts. Regarding adjusting door components for new door seals.
If your doors are properly aligned...
Window Height Adjustment
After installing new door seals with the window wound all the way up, had a 1/4 to 1/8th in gap at the rear corner of the window near the B pillar so the window did not reach the seal. Before the new seals, the window was low at the back too.
The fix:
With the window rolled down. Clamp the wheeled carrier wheels to the vent frame, I used spring clamps (large orange, medium black). Loosen the 10mm bolts and rotate the window, clockwise for driver's door, counter clockwise for passenger's. Tighten bolts, remove clamps roll up window, roll down Then adjust front stop and rear stop (if necessary).
If that is not enough, loosen window regulator bolts and lift window, tighten bolts. Then adjust front stop and rear stop (if necessary)
If that's not enough adjust rear rail. With window down adjust lower fitment. Roll up window adjust upper accordingly. Then adjust front stop and rear stop (if necessary)
Vent Window Adjustment
The vent window frame is adjustable, up, down, forward and rearward. The interior edge of the the vent frame is recessed to close against the lower part of the seal without pushing it up. At the top of the frame where the window meets the the frame is a small piece of wedged rubber that eases the transition between frame glass and rubber, tilt the vent frame so this area makes firm contact with the rubber. The glass should fit enough to compress the rubber. I loosened all the 10mm vent window frame bolts, including vent window regulator. Close the door and adjust the frame to fit the rubber, snug the top adjustment bolts, then set the inward pitch, test with window up, down and rolling window up. If it's good tighten everything test, adjust, test etc...until you can live with it.

Window height and rotation adjustment may be necessary as well to make a good seal.
May also need to adjust door strike on the B pillar. The weakest part of the whole thing is the upper B pillar glass corner.
It takes a while for the rubber to ease and compress.
After adjustment of vent frame, you can test the window to rubber compression with a piece of paper or a spray bottle.

im3crazy
I reviewed a number of articles on the forum and the web to see how others approached releasing a “bear claw” latch. There were many fine approaches. There seem to be two reasonable ways to release the trunk latch: (1) using a motor actuator, or (2) a brute-force solenoid.
Although it used a lot of power, the solenoid seemed more reliable in the long term than the motor. I had just installed motors in the doors, and I had my doubts on their work-life. Using the solenoid approach also made sense because I already had 30 amp capacity in the trunk feeding my stereo amplifiers. I used a heavy duty 30 amp double pole relay to release the solenoid. A #8 wire feeds the trunk from a 30 amp central fuse box directly from the battery for upgraded accessories, and a #10 wire fused at 20 amps serves the release relay and is fused at 20 amp slo-blow- absolutely necessary for the solenoid draw.

Before I purchased the solenoid I used a spring scale attached to the trunk release lever to determine how many foot-pounds would be necessary to release the trunk. If I recall correctly it was approximately 45 pounds, quite a shock.
I found a supplier online from which I purchased my first solenoid that had this rating. I quickly found out that the rating was cited for the end of the stroke, and not the start to stroke- major difference! I located another provider that had a solenoid that appeared better mechanically and electrically more capable and I purchased the device for about $45.
One of the first challenges you have with a solenoid is both the start pull capacity as well as the stroke length. I determined that I needed a minimum of a three-quarter inch stroke at the 45-50 lb rating. My second candidate worked well.

I also determined that two other important factors in making this work: (1) securely mounting the solenoid to assure there was no slack or lost effort, (2) providing A fine adjustment along with a way to absorb the massive shock of the instantaneous pull of this big solenoid.


To accomplish this I used a “10 lb” 4” spring, a rubber grommet, and a turnbuckle. This allowed me to make the adjustments necessary to fine-tune the assembly, and also to absorb unnecessary shock to the release lever. Please check out the pictures and the accompanying text.

The tension spring is attached at the existing trunk release lever base just below the latch return spring. This thing really needs a lot of energy to release!

A long-throw alarm switch was installed so it could be easily adjusted to determine if the trunk lid was attacked and pried open.


I hope this approach might be useful to someone contemplating the same.


dtharp113
My rear seats were in pretty rough shape (and I've replaced the front seats so I no longer had a matching set .. though that wasn't a big deal to me). I also found dimensions for the panels from TonyHavana (in Toronto)
Here's the starting point (the gray colour is QuietCar soundproofing paint):

The bottom panel using 1/4 plywood. I've thought about going back and replacing it with 1/2 for additional cargo capacity as the 1/4 inch feels a bit flimsy.

The top panel

The bottom panel fitted. I fastened a piece of 1x2 parallel to the forward edge of the bottom panel so the panel wouldn't slid forward (sorry, don't have a pic of that).

Remember to leave a bit of a gap for the wiring harness

I used 2 short pieces of 1x2 as attachment points for the upper panel. You'll need to bend open the seat bracket to accommodate.

A closer look at the attachment:

The upper panel installed using 4 1" wood screws.

The lower panel installed (I had some leftover FatMat that I used here)

Upper panel carpet installed. I ordered the carpet from Esty and used 3M spray adhesive to glue it on. Esty included a strip of fabric that I used to cover the gap btwn the parcel shelf and upper panel.

Lower panel carpet installed.

Not a very complicated project and this took all of an afternoon to knock out with minimal cost.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
mlytle's addition - another way to do it with less wood. all wiring should be run in stock channels inside quarter panels.
......using esty kit.
Clear the space, including removing roll bar braces.

Cut off the old upper rear seat hangers

Use lower carpet piece to trace wooden bottom (7/16th ply)

Use upper carpet piece to trace piece of ensolite sound insulation

Cut piece

Peel and stick

3m super 90 spray glue on ensolite and back of carpet…stick!

ensolite on wheel humps. not doing carpet on top. PITA to form on curve.


cut bottom

made wood blocks to "catch" the lip on seat bottom front.

test fit

and carpet held to bottom with velcro


mlytle
Ok, I have had enough of the gas and gaz pedals coming off because of that dumb nub design from bmw. Time to do the conversion to a hinge.
Since this is a track and street car that has carpet, I could not just bolt it to the floor. Have to preserve the concept of two things sticking up from the floor through the existing holes in the carpet.
Short version of the process I am following is..
-cut off existing nubs and nub holder
-install two bolts through the floor and secure then top and bottom with alum bar and lock nut
-attach a hinge to the pedal
-install carpet
-screw nut onto bolts about half way down. This holds hinge above the carpet
-install hinge and pedal on bolts
-add another nut on top.
-drive……
The hinge

Various parts. Note the good set of nubs I cut out of Barney. Use those for reference and measurement

Pulled existing Gaz pedal off

The different pedals. Note for stock pedal use, must cut off the nub cups on bottom. (center pedal)

dimension of the pedal are
9in high
3in wide at bottom
2.25iin wide at top
off with their heads!

nub support removed

These things suck…

Here are the pieces of alum bar stock I am using to sandwich the floor pan. replacement for using washers.

Ran out and bought some parts. These are all the nuts and bolts needed.

Here is the roller bearing on the accel rod that rolls on back of aluminum pedal I made.

here is the info on the bearing for the accel rod. credit for research on finding this goes to Lee at Massive.
VBZ.com
#608Z
8mm id
22mm od
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/608ZZ10-1
Drilled some holes in floor that lined up with hinge and aluminum bar holes

Attached hinge to gas pedal

Put bolts and plate on bottom. Goobed on some black RTV to seal it up under the plate

Plate and nuts on top.

Now the hinge support nuts go on. You can set these at the height you want the bottom of pedal to be. Put washer on top of nut, put hinge on, put another washer, then another nut.

With test fit done, remove pedal and put carpet back in

Reinstall pedal

Done

Rock solid. No way it is ever going to come off again while matching revs going into a turn on track. Whooo hoooo!
The mod is invisible unless you look behind the pedal. Same mod can be done to a stock pedal.

hegedus

Rear Seat Removal

By hegedus, in Body and Interior,

Contributed by Tilux
Saturday, 07 October 2006
There are two locking "tabs" that hold the bottom seat in place. Pull up hard on the bottom seat while pushing it back, too. Once removed you will see two curved pieces of steel that lock into the back of the vertical kick panel about one third in from either side.
Remove the bottom seat cushion.
Now, look under the vertical back seat portion and you will see two metal tabs with a Phillips head screw through a hole in each one; again, about one third in from either side. Back the screws out and jiggle the seat upwards and out.

hegedus
Written by BillWilliams Sunday, 08 March 2009
Things to check:
1. BMW intentionally put it there. (most 2002s have some of that smell, some more than others)
2. A good way to keep the girl/woman out of the car. Nice long drives alone are good things unless you have the Carl's Jr girl
3. Fuel tank leaking, generally around the seam.
4. Fuel filler boot cracked and letting fumes out.
5. Fuel line(s) under or in the car leaking.
6. Something in the engine bay (hoses, lines, filter, fittings, carb, injection) letting fumes or raw fuel out.
7. Vapor canister or return line not hooked up or leaking.
8. Gaskets around the fuel sender or fuel pick-up rotten and leaking fumes. (This is the most likely)
O ring for sender is 16 11 1 744 369
Twist in gasket 16 12 1 105 332
Bolt in gasket 16 12 1 110 598
9. Fuel lines from tank to rigid lines cracked deteriorated and leaking fuel or fumes
10. You spilled fuel on your boots at the last fill up.

hegedus
Written by DukeRimmer
Wednesday, 20 December 2006
Step 1 Open door and hood, remove moulding starting at rear. Your goal is to chip the paint as little as possible if you’re not repainting. This job is usually done in conjunction with repaint so you need to remember when prepping for paint to minimize paint thickness in these areas. Thick paint chips more easily. Sand the primer-filler till you see bare metal before application of final sealer and color.
Welder’s clamp. This one is adjusted for display, it must be much looser in use so that it pushes in on the bottom corner of the moulding.
Step 2 To install all you need is a common welder’s clamp, a towel, and a little caution. No hammer, no hand strain. Adjust the clamp so that it's 1.5 times the width of the moulding. Hold the moulding against the drip rail with the horizontal and angled parts parallel. This step is to visualize where the center of the curve is. Start the install at the center of the curve and work outward in both directions. It will twist into position with the greatest of ease if the starting point is centered in the curve.

Correct hood gap, and damage done by too small of a gap.
Step 3 Be sure the hood is adjusted so the gap matches the trunk gap. If it's pushed back to match the fender to door gap, the new moulding will suffer, as will the hood paint.

hegedus
Written by David Duncan Wednesday, 07 September 2005 Restuffing Your Stock '02 Seats Repadding the stock '02 seats is a time-consuming but worthwile procedure. While most people will simply upgrade to some nice Recaros when their original seats have had it, many prefer the original look or simply can't yet afford to go with some replacement Recaros. For these people, restuffing the original seats is a great option.
In my case, I repadded the front seats in my 1975 2002 for about $35 worth of foam and a few evenings of work in my spare time. The first seat I tried took about eight hours, and the second one was about six hours. Although it took a while, the results are great and I got to clean and condition the seats while they were out of the car. Parts/Tools Needed:
Foam pads from upholstery shop or crafts store (more on these below)
X-acto knife
Needle-nose pliers
Flat head screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
FAT Phillips screwdriver for the side screws
Sockets, spanner set, or crescent wrenches
Optional: some 1/4" car headliner foam to put under horsehairs (if you are refitting them)

For new foam pads, I bought some 2" foam from a fabric/crafts store. Measure your seats & backs and add a couple inches either way- you will be trimming them to fit. For me, it cost approx. $35, which isn't bad compared to the cost of Recaros. This was the very flexible upholstery foam...the kind you can squeeze to "zero." They had white and green, and I went for the green, which seemed denser. The thickness of the foam will depend on the condition of your existing horsehair pads and whether you want to reuse whatever is left of them. Mine were close to gone, especially the driver's seat, but still all one piece. I chose to refit the horsehairs under the foam, so I only needed the 2" thick stuff. If your horsehair pads are completely gone, then you will want to get thicker foam.
Restuffing Procedure:
The following assumes that all '02 seats are constructed basically the same, but as I mentioned my car is a '75. First you want to take the seats out, remove the rails, and then dismantle the hardware. There is a reason why this took so long, and that is because you want to be careful with your old seat materials!
Pull the covers off slowly...they are attached by a series off metal hooks on the frame. Pry the hooks up to make it easier, and be careful, they're sharp 'n' rusty! I just used my hands to pull the vinyl back, afraid that pliers would tear it.
Cut the foam to fit, with a little overlap. If you want (I didn't think of this till after I was done) you could get even thicker padding & custom cut the "wings" of the seats, for a more "Recaro" feel.
I took some car headliner foam (about 1/4" thick and a few extra bucks) and sewed it to the spring frame to make a base for the old horsehairs so they wouldn't shed into the car.
Refit the horsehairs (if you are re-using them), then place the foam into position. Putting the seat covers over the stuffing is a wrestling match, so get yourself pumped up! I managed not to tear the vinyl, but you should check your covers and their seams and make sure they're strong enough for the stretching. If they're dry & brittle, it might be a different story. I wasn't able to repad the headrests (the stems were pretty rusty & didn't want to move...and they are still semi-comfy, so I skipped 'em).
Start with the front of the seat, and then work your way to the back, hooking along the way. You have to work with the material and the foam to keep it in place. When you're about three-fourths of the way back, grab the front of the seat and pull the cover towards the back, coaxing it into place. At first, I didn't think there was much leeway at all for stretching. Then I got a little brave and figured out how to coax the cover. It does give a bit...you just gotta work it along. By far, this was the most aggravating part; I found talking to the seat helpful!
Before you put the seats back into the car, it's a good time to clean 'em up a bit with a brush and your cleaner of choice... not to mention a GREAT time to crack a cold one! Reassemble the rails hardware, then bolt the seats back into car. I used a couple of washers under the front rails to 'lift' the front of the seat slightly (provides a better driving support...a cool tip I got from the message board).
If you want to try extra padding in the lumbar area, go for it. But the funny thing is that when the seats were back in place, the lower half of the seat back felt much thicker and supportive. I don't know how that happened, but the lumbar support was instantly built-in and noticeable! It was such an extreme difference at first, I didn't think that I could lean all the way back and drive at the same time! Shows how bad off the original padding was! Now, I sit upright and drive, and it feels GOOD!
Anyway, one size of foam did the trick for support and comfort. Though I did think of getting 1/2" or 1" pieces to add to specific areas, I just went for one size and it worked out fine. It also followed the natural design of the original seat, which isn't exactly the most ergonomically fine specimen, but it's adequate enough for straight posture (and the '60s design rules!).
I do want to try beefing up the bolsters sometime, especially now that I've done it before. It's a "crazy" project, but well worth it on that next drive...very comfy! I plan to do the rear bench next...and can't wait! I'm just amazed that I took on the project, and it came out nice! I still dream of Recaros, though. I hope this helps and if you have any questions, please post them to the Message Board!
COPYRIGHT 2002, BMW 2002 FAQ, Rob Shisler and Steve Kupper. All Rights Reserved.

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