I have gone through a few heater valves. guts break, replace whole valve with another used valve, repeat. enough.
this time i bought a rebuild kit from BLUNTTECH. why buy a new valve when the brass part does not wear out, the kit includes EVERYTHING but the brass shell. rebuild is a VERY simple process.
so what do you need for this job?
flat blade screwdriver
phillips head screw driver
dremel with wire wheel
NOTE - this is just the rebuild of the later "big" heater valves and does not include the removal or install of a valve.
the kit and the broken valve
remove two screw with flat blade, take cover off.
now use 7mm wrench to unbolt control arm from back
remove broken guts
old and new guts. new looks much stronger.
very important part here. main reason these valve fail (at least from all the ones i have taken apart) is that the inside of the valve corrodes in one spot becoming rough. particulary true if the valve sits in one open or closed position for a long time. the plastic guts then hang up on the corroded area of the shell and break.
clean the inside of the brass shell until nice smooth and shiny. i used some 600grit and a dremel wire wheel to do this, then polished with metal polish like ibis or brasso.
now assemble the guts
don't forget the o-ring on shaft
i used a little teflon grease on all the parts.
now grab the cover. remove old o-ring with pick
same cleaning and polish rule applies to cover
install new o-ring
okay now put cover on the valve. note the position and alignment of the guts and the arrow on the cover.
use the new screws and lock rings to assemble (new parts are phillips heads)
put the control arm back on with 7mm wrench. don't forget the little washer.
note position of arm and open/closed valve. we are looking at the HEATER end of the valve in these picks.
bagged up and ready for install at a later date.