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tii fuel pump options


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Original tii fuel pumps are at least 33 years old and either failing in our 2002s or ready to fail. Rebuilt pumps are proving to be questionable as they are installed in our cars. However, Bosch now has new tii fuel pumps available for over $400.00.

With rebuilt pumps being a crap shoot, new tii pumps pricey, there are at least two other options a tii owner can consider when the old pump quits pumping.

Both options violate the originality or the car, the tii owner loses that familiar whir of the original pump but may gain some dependability.

Keith Kreeger outlines the installation of the e-28 pump installation. He uses it on Stella and is happy with the performance.

Here is the link to his well written and documented process to install the e-28 pump.

http://www.my2002tii.com/tii-fuel-pump_how-to.htm

The other option is the in-tank pump from an e-30. The e-30 pump is a drop in pump and sender that fits into the sender hole of a tii tank. The advantages are reduced cost, newer dependable technology, less noise, all under-body components are removed and it is relatively simple to convert.

e-30 fuel pump/sender installation tips:

Below is the e-30 pump (edit - Thanks Kris) 16 14 1 179 992, the sender 16 14 1 152 266, the o-ring between the sender and the pump 16 12 1 150 391 and the O-RING that goes between the tank and the sender/pump unit 16 11 1 744 369. All of these components now cost about $400. Close to just the replacement cost of a tii pump. But if you have to replace the tii fuel level sender and the bracket/cannister, the original set-up obviously costs more. Rarely do all three original components need to be replaced at the same time I admit. You need to make the decision on which of the three options you want to go with.


e-30intankpumpandsender1.jpg

The e-30 unit replaces the tii bracket, expansion tank 16 12 1 111 591, the fuel pump 16 12 1 107 414 and the sending unit 62 16 1 354 267.
(About $600 if you order all three parts)

tiifueltankohmsreadings.jpg

Just for reference - these are the reading I get for my tii sender when full and empty. These readings are needed when diagnosing a faulty fuel reading.

 

e-30intankpumpandsender2.jpg

e-30intankpumpandsender3.jpg

 

The e-30 pump and sender must be separated when installing into the tii tank. The e-30 pump will fit through the opening but wiggling the filter is tedious. Properly align the o-ring and tighten the pump in your favorite manner.

Insert the sender into the pump and tighten the 4 M5 nuts. You need to order these if you do not have them in your stash.

 

e-30intankwiringharness_zps69b64d1c.jpg

 

The harness for a e-30 makes wiring simple. All you need is the part that connects to the tank and enough of a tail to splice into the tii wiring.

On the e-30 unit, the power to the pump and the wires to the fuel gauge on the dash are accessible on top of the e-30 unit.

On the e-30 harness there are five wires, two larger gauge and three smaller gauge wires. The larger go to the pump and the smaller to the sender. You only use two of the smaller gauge wires for the American tii unless you want to get creative and wire in a low fuel warning light. (some Euro models have the low fuel light option that lights up the brake light on a low fuel condition)

Pump wiring:
Bring the wiring from the bottom of the car that did go to the original tii pump into the trunk. Disconnect it in a manner in case you do want to go back to the original set up. You should have a green white and a brown wire. Green white being the power and brown is always a ground.

Splice the two wires from the pump from the tii to the larger wires on the e-30 harness, brown to brown and the green-white to large green wire.

Now, you need to do a little electrical testing to determine which wires go where. You need to identify the ground on the sender, the connection to the fuel sending unit and the connection to the low fuel light indicator. I think the connection to the left (looking into the connection) is ground, the middle on to the fuel level sending unit and the right to the idiot light. Now with the harness, use a n OHM gauge to determine which connection on the plug is connected to the wire. Ground is the brown wire and I believe both other wires are brown with a green tracer. Determine which one is which and use the one to the middle connection.

Make those connections with your favorite method, solder, butt connections, spade tips. Secure and protect with tape and hook up the harness.

The fuel supply line now runs from the e-30 pump, through the hole in the support frame to the steel line. You can use the smaller fuel supply line (8x13 or 8x12 16 12 1 108 711 that is suitable for fuel injection) making the passage through that hole much easier. (The picture shows the supply hose not having a clamp, this picture was taken before I installed the clamp. It does need a clamp.

The return line maintains the stock set-up. Plastic return line to the smaller of the two bibs on the pick-up unit.

 

This photo was taken before I got all of the hose clamps on the set-up.

 

e-30intankpumpandsender4.jpg

 

 

Let's hope it works, I will report back later. I posted this FAQ in the UNDER CONTRUCTION area and hope to gain some feedback from others who have tried a similar solution.

2 June 2008 UPDATE
I have ran P2 with this set-up with only a slight blip, the electrical connection to the pump loosened twice. I now have that solved.

The rest of the set up is performing well, good pressure, the level reading seems to be the same as the stock unit.

 

Edited by BillWilliams

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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I recently installed the new 528 pump on my 74 Tii and I am happy with it. I did have to reroute the fuel lines near the pump to make sure none of them would rub on the half shafts.

I talked with two different people that work on cars for a living and asked If a new bosch or a rebuilt older model would be better. They both said it was no contest and to get the new one, so that's what I did.

I painted the littlle surge tank and bracket with POR 15 and coated the inside with POR 15 tank sealer . While I was there, I pulled the gas tank and did the same.

Instead off splicing wires, I built a new wiring harness for the pump and ran it all the way from the pump to the inside of the trunk.

I also found room just in front on the spare tire to mount the Tii Fuel filter, rather than up by the battery.

I was able to buy my new pump for about $130. I always like to have a spare and I won an auction for a new one for $50.

Hardest part was getting the hoses to fit right.

The new pump is much quieter. It also pumps up faster.

Starting is alot quicker but most of that is due to the M3 starter that I recently installed.

I am saving my old pump but I don't think I will go back.

Any body know the best way to preserve it?

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  • 6 months later...
e-30 pump 16 14 1 170 992

hey Bill, I know this is an ancient thread, but doing some research on this for my MS project, I think you may be 1 digit off. The part # I found was "16 14 1 179 992"

Further inspection showed that this part number was replaced by "16141184022"

Just a heads-up to anyone thats parts-hunting like I am.

SIG4.jpg

click signature above for my resto blog

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  • 1 year later...

Thx all. I saw Bill's post previously and that certainly seems to be the mosts cost effective replacement approach. And thx to all here and Chris Isaacson in Philly for the suggestion to tap on the fuel pump with the key on in the meantime. Sho nuff, a slight rap with the boxed end of a 16mm wrench got the pump whirring again. I laughed out loud. I thought only Charlie Chaplin could give a machine a kick and get it going again. Sounds like I've bought enough time to plan the next generation pump. Thanks again all who responded. You guys rock.

Hooked on 2002 since my first one bought new in 1972

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  • 1 year later...

Bill -

Just re-reading thru this great article and I think I'll do this conversion.

Now that the larger tube on the stock tii pickup isn't used, did you remove the nylon mesh strainer at the bottom of the pickup?

Does the new pump and sending unit come with the electrical connector or is that a separate piece?

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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The new unit comes with it's own mesh filter. The unit is an in tank two piece unit, the pump and the pick-up/sender.

I used the pigtail from an old e-30 to make the connection.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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Both the E30 pump and sending unit come with the sealing o-rings (at least mine did). If you order them separately, you will have spares.

For easy wiring, mark the polarity of the pump terminals on the housing. The pump itself is marked and uses a red wire for positive, black for negative. Sorry for the inferior picture quality.

pics1092010008.jpg

pics1092010009.jpg

Another good thing about this combination is that it provides a "window" to peek inside the tank and see the mesh "bubble" filter. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear the little filter is offered as a replacement part (at least not on RealOEM).

pics1092010013.jpg

I will report back once the wiring has been completed.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Now that the pump is in and the wiring complete, I thought I would share my findings on the wiring.

As Bill mentions above, there are (2) wires to the pump. The E30 plug I got had a brown wire and green wire with reddish stripe. I simply wired the tii brown wire and green wire/white stripe to the E30 plug.

pics10162010001.jpg

The sending unit plug has small markings on it, but I couldn't find any references on-line. Note the "I, II and III" marks.

pics10152010005.jpg

Corresponding wires connected to the E30 plug are:

I = Brown

II = Brown/Green

III = Brown/White

pics10152010004.jpg

Since my car doesn't have a low fuel light, I wired the plug as follows:

Solid brown to solid brown on car

Brown/green to brown/yellow(ish) on car

The sending unit and pump are both working (but I still don't have the correct pressure).

  • Like 1

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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  • 1 month later...
I am curious to know how your car is running. I am still trying to get the bugs worked out of mine (pressure is 28 psi measured at the cold start valve).

My car have been standing still since 1990... When I bought it 2 month ago the old fuel-pump didn't work at all so I went for this solution right away. After having it installed everything worked instantly with no issues. The car runs great, but the CO level is way to high (10% and should be at 3%) I believe that this has nothing to do with the pressure from the fuel pump and I have not had time to do the initial settings on the kugelfischer yet which I guess is the issue here.

What are the bugs you need to work out?

Regards

Christer

74 BMW 2002 Tii

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