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Relay for fog lamp / hidden cut-off switch


dpowell

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Hello, helpful people.

 

I'm considering replacing the dummy pull knob with a fog lamp switch and turning it into an anti-theft cut-off switch between the ignition switch and the starter motor (Pull to start/Push back in to frustrate thieves).

I've read a bit on the back forums to get a sense of what works. I have to. I might be an electrical idiot.

I know I need to run it through a relay, but I want to make sure it's the right one. So, questions:

 

1. Black wire, right?

2. 50 amps?

3. If 50 amps, should the relay be 50 amps or, just to be safe, 60 or 70 amps? Would that, in fact, not be safe at all?

4. Wiring that relay: essentially like wiring fog lamps?

5. Any safety considerations you'd like to add?

 

Thanks for any input.

Edited by Dustin

- D

 

1972 Malaga Sunroof - bone-stock cross-country road-tripper (sold when I was a young idiot)

1975 Sahara Sunroof - present daily[ish]-driver

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Actually, i think you are making things a bit too complicated if all you are doing is cutting the connection between ignition key and the starter. All you need to do is put a switch between in that wire.  There is no relay needed.  It is probably a 15 amp circuit, but i do not remember of the top of my head. It is not 50 AMP.  

 

Keep the size of the wire the same as one already there.  You will need to cut it. Put in your wire extension to the switch and then the wire back to the other side of the cut.  Switch connects both sides.

 

In this scenario you are only preventing people from running the starter from inside the car.  You can still pop start the car or jump the wires under the hood to spin the starter.

 

steve k.

Get your 2002 FAQ merchandise from 2002FAQ Store

 

 

 

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That is cleaner. Thanks for the education, guys.

Steve, RE: pop-starting: that's a good point. I'll consider another cut-off to the fuel pump down the road. For now, I'm hoping the combination of the starter cut-off and a pedal-to-steering wheel club will do the trick. Maybe a second one is in order, so both clutch and brake are locked to different spokes on the wheel. That way they have to saw through at least twice to be able to pop-start!

The car spends 90% of it's time in secure parking. But I'm trying to fortify it for those times that it isn't.

In the long-term, a battery relocation along with a cut-off and fused bypass in the (locked) trunk is going to happen. Having read through old posts I'm pretty sure I saw something like that on yours, mlytle.

This forum is so great, especially for the amateur like me that needs clear instructions. If you guys have any other anti-theft insights, or want to point me toward any old posts I may have missed, I'd be grateful.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

- D

 

1972 Malaga Sunroof - bone-stock cross-country road-tripper (sold when I was a young idiot)

1975 Sahara Sunroof - present daily[ish]-driver

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I've been running something similar to that but a lot more tricky.  I used 2 headlight switches in the Fog socket and the rear/def sockets.  First indent on BOTH switches pulled turns on power to electric fuel pump, 2nd indent turns on both fuel pump and rear def or fog lights. 

 

My thinking was that if I ever got carjacked, just bump the switch off on the way out of the door.  Car still runs for 100 feet before stalling out.  That and if someone tried to steal it, if it just sat there turning over, they might look for a kill switch, but if they were able to drive it a little ways and it crapped out they'd just think "Huh, crappy old car" and walk...

Life's a garden baby, dig it.

My web album

75 Fjord

73 RHD Targa

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If you guys have any other anti-theft insights,

 

 

there are tons of thread on anti-theft measures.  new ones get started and old ones rehashed every time a car gets stolen.

 

best plan is 1/ garage it  and 2/ insure it.    if someone wants your car and it is on the street, it doesn't matter what anti-theft devices you put in it, they are going to take it.

 

 

or....just get a Trunk Monkey!  (if you are too young to remember that, google it.  :-))

2xM3

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Murderous monkey in the trunk: of course I remember that one. Classic sketch. But it's good to know that, at 33, I may already be among the old farts on this forum.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

- D

 

1972 Malaga Sunroof - bone-stock cross-country road-tripper (sold when I was a young idiot)

1975 Sahara Sunroof - present daily[ish]-driver

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I thought it was cool that my car has a built in coffee maker, it was an Italian option, very rare. That South African flame thrower is pretty extreme.

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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Don't even need to cut a wire. Just unplug from back of ignition switch and add extensions to the added switch.

Interrupt the green wire from ignition to the solenoid.

Ez.

To clarify, after having a look at a few diagrams: it seems like the green wire is marked for "signal switch". But interrupting it will kill the starter motor?

Thanks, again.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

- D

 

1972 Malaga Sunroof - bone-stock cross-country road-tripper (sold when I was a young idiot)

1975 Sahara Sunroof - present daily[ish]-driver

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I have to ask the stupid questions so I don't make the stupid mistakes.

Thanks again, mlytle.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

- D

 

1972 Malaga Sunroof - bone-stock cross-country road-tripper (sold when I was a young idiot)

1975 Sahara Sunroof - present daily[ish]-driver

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