engine and drivetrain Cant shift! any ideas how what's going on?

[lazerfred]

My car started having trouble shiting in to gear a few weeks ago; basically it felt like the clutch wasn't fully disengaging when I would push the clutch pedal in. Now I can't change gears at all, except into reverse.

 

I had the transmission rebulit about 5 years and 4,000 miles ago (I work from home and don't drive much) and the clutch was replaced as part of the job. It drove great until a few weeks ago..

 

Any ideas what exactly is going on? What I can do to figure it out? I can't even drive it to a mechanic; thinking about pushing it down the street so I can get my insurance to cover a tow to a mechanic (shh... don't tell anyone!).

 

I am fairly good and fixing stuff on my car, but clutch/transmission stuff is WAY above my pay grade...

 

Any ideas let me know!

 

Thx.

[KFunk]

Check the brake/clutch fluid reservoir and see if it's low/below the clutch hose.  It could just be a leaky clutch master or slave cylinder.

[PaulTWinterton]

Searching for clues is pretty easy.

1. First check your fluid level in the reservoir. Too low? Air getting in the system. The side outlet goes to the clutch master, which feeds the clutch slave. If you're lucky and this is the case, you will need to top up the reservoir and bleed the slave cylinder.

2. Lift carpet under pedals and remove the rubber cover from the pedal box. Likely very dirty in there, but there should not be a puddle of fluid. If there is, the  clutch master is leaking, and could be leaking into the brake booster as well.  Oopps!  Wrong MC.

3. Put car on reliable jack stands. Have someone push on the clutch pedal, while you watch the action of the slave cylinder (from under the car). It pushes on a lever that moves the clutch plate inside the transmission. If it is not pushing the lever at least 1.5 inches (FAQ correct me) then either your master or your slave are not functioning properly. Fluid is bypassing the seals within the cylinders. Slave easily replaced, master more difficult.

4. If the hydraulics all pass, there may be transmission problems, which I cannot comment on.

5. Lastly, your shifter linkage may be very worn. There are bushings that may need to be replaced to make each shift accurate.

I'm an optimist and think it's likely your hydraulics. Good luck.

Edited July 2, 2015 by PaulTWinterton

[tzei]

Makes no noise & shifter moves really easily to all forward gears?

[lazerfred]

thank you guys --

 

 gonna def check out your suggestions and report back!

 

tzei -- def makes noise and doesn't move easily into any gear but reverse! (doesn't really move at all into any gear!)

[xferboy]

can you get it in gear when the car isn't running?

[TobyB]

Good Q- but-

 

except into reverse.

scares me. 

If the clutch isn't disengaging, you'd get a grinding when you tried to go into reverse.

 

Now, the next step is to jack the nose up high, put the car on good jackstands, and get someone to

step on the clutch while you watch the slave. 

 

Oh- is it a 4- speed?

 

If it is, the slave should move the arm 1/2 to 3/4" when the clutch is depressed.

 

Then get a good light, and get said person to shift while you look at the shift linkage above the

guibo/driveshaft.  It's possible for things to loosen up up there and make everything bind up.

 

If that all looks good, then it's inside the box, and that's above my pay grade and ability, too...

 

t

[Mike Self]

If your clutch hydraulics pass muster....

 

Check the allen head bolts that hold the shift platform to the tranny.  If they work loose, you'll find it difficult to engage a gear because the loose platform takes up all the motion from the shift lever.  The Metalastic mounts that the bolts pass through also disintegrate from age, heat and oil and will contribute to this looseness.  

 

With the car up on stands or a lift, you can reach the allen bolts to tighten 'em--it's a tight squeeze around the exhaust and the driveshaft, but it's do-able.  

 

Happy tinkering,

mike

[lazerfred]

Good Q- but-

scares me. 

If the clutch isn't disengaging, you'd get a grinding when you tried to go into reverse.

 

Now, the next step is to jack the nose up high, put the car on good jackstands, and get someone to

step on the clutch while you watch the slave. 

 

Oh- is it a 4- speed?

 

If it is, the slave should move the arm 1/2 to 3/4" when the clutch is depressed.

 

Then get a good light, and get said person to shift while you look at the shift linkage above the

guibo/driveshaft.  It's possible for things to loosen up up there and make everything bind up.

 

If that all looks good, then it's inside the box, and that's above my pay grade and ability, too...

 

t

I haven't gotten to it yet tonight! but to clarify, yep, it's a four-speed; didn't have the 5 speed upgrade. And it actually got in reverse, not easily, and it def was grinding a bit... it was just the only gear I could get in when a got a quarter mile down the road!

 

I'll be checking everything out tonight and tomorrow... thanks so much!

[feud02]

At first I was going to recommend more fiber in your diet.  Then I re-read the topic.  Ooops.  All other reply's seem to have covered the possible problems and fixes.  Good luck.

And hey, more fiber won't hurt!

 

Feud

[lazerfred]

Searching for clues is pretty easy.

1. First check your fluid level in the reservoir. Too low? Air getting in the system. The side outlet goes to the clutch master, which feeds the clutch slave. If you're lucky and this is the case, you will need to top up the reservoir and bleed the slave cylinder.

 

 

Solved! that was it... kind of dumb of me to not look there before. It was just below the feed to the clutch master. Yay!

 

Now I have a diff problem. My mechanic insisted on a Better quality brake fluid when we put them in... but I cannot remember what and I know mixing fluid is a no no. Is Dot 5 the best and can it be used in these systems? Because that number is ringing a bell with me...

 

Thanks for any help!

[lazerfred]

At first I was going to recommend more fiber in your diet.  Then I re-read the topic.  Ooops.  All other reply's seem to have covered the possible problems and fixes.  Good luck.

And hey, more fiber won't hurt!

 

Feud

You and my doctor are on the same page I see!

[peterschop]

 

Now I have a diff problem. My mechanic insisted on a Better quality brake fluid when we put them in... but I cannot remember what and I know mixing fluid is a no no. Is Dot 5 the best and can it be used in these systems? Because that number is ringing a bell with me...

 

Thanks for any help!

 

 

DO NOT ADD DOT 5 to your brake system unless it has already been converted to 5. The whole system must be cleaned out first. Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 are glycol based fluid whereas dot 5 is silicone based and are not compatible. I use Ate 200 which is a Dot 4.

Edited July 2, 2015 by peterschop

[PaulTWinterton]

PaulTWinterton, on 29 Jun 2015 - 11:40 AM, said: Now I have a diff problem. My mechanic insisted on a Better quality brake fluid when we put them in... but I cannot remember what and I know mixing fluid is a no no. Is Dot 5 the best and can it be used in these systems? Because that number is ringing a bell with me... Thanks for any help!

 

That quote isn't mine!  My dif is fine.

 

Good to know about the various grades and non-compatibility though.

[peterschop]

That quote isn't mine!  My dif is fine.

 

Good to know about the various grades and non-compatibility though.

 

Sorry Paul, it showed up when I hit quote and I could not delete your name.