Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Just Bought a Parts Car, Maybe NOT a Parts Car -- Advice on Welding Rear Subframe Mount


Recommended Posts

I just bought a '73 2002 that I'd looked at back in the fall and decided was a parts car due to the fact that the right side of the rear subframe was practically touching the ground because the mount point (the long bolt that goes through under the back seat) had rotted out. That was over and above some usual 2002 rust (right rocker completely gone, right rear shock tower very weak) and the car not having run in five years. I made the guy a criminally low offer for it, and today, to my surprise, he accepted.

 

I don't yet have the car in my possession, but due in part to some good-natured public shaming of me on Facebook by Mike Miller, I'm rethinking my plan to part it out. I'm showing pics here. The car looks much better in the pics than it is in person. The pic of interest is the last one, showing where the rear subframe bushing is hanging below the level of the (rusty) right rocker.

 

I believe the part number of the "mounting plate" through which the attachment bolt goes is 41121815320, but obviously the part is the least of my concerns. I have never done a lick of welding in my life, but this being beneath the car, maybe it's a good place for me to start, as it's out of sight. How difficult is this to tackle? What sort of welding equipment do I need? Is it reasonable to think I just apply my Hack Mechanic skills and muddle through by looking at Youtube videos, or am I an idiot to consider it unless I enroll in a welding class?

 

--Rob

 

 

 

post-32582-0-98109000-1425251613_thumb.j

post-32582-0-53867900-1425251858_thumb.j

post-32582-0-21486800-1425251883_thumb.j

post-32582-0-23978900-1425251899_thumb.j

post-32582-0-56247000-1425251918_thumb.j

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ouch... Tough call..... That's a lot of rust back there.... But my underlying thought adheres to they don't make them anymore.... And if it can be saved.... Save it! It's almost like a duty!

Edited by arminyack
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, Rob-

that's not enough info to decide what to do with the car, I'm afraid. What about the interior, drivetrain (matching numbers?), suspensions, history, title?

The subframe mount(s) and the shock tower(s) wouldn't be the main key for me, but without welding knowledge... Hm.

Used to be inka, very famous...  No sunroof... A 73! The best year, they say!

Drag it home, give it a caring clean incl. vac, take a barrel of pics and then let's see.

Cheers,

Henning

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that is a pretty serious place to rust.  the mount location is complicated, hard to get at, and must be precise as that is what defines the rear axle alignment.  that is not a place to learn how to weld....

 

also pretty obvious that the rear shock tower needs to be replaced.  another major job.

 

that is pretty close to a parts car.  need to see the frame rail pics, the left rear shock tower and what lies underneath the front carpets near the a-pillars before dealing the final blow.

Edited by mlytle

2xM3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on Marshall's comments.

 

Car looks like an early 73 or late 72 due to deep bucket grills, close rear bumper and low front overriders.

 

Are those red center tail light lenses?

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, like Marshall, I'd say

given how awful that butt looks, get the front fenders off.  

 

10 years ago I cut up nicer- looking cars.

 

Now, however, if the pix are the worst of it, it might be worth saving. 

 

But I bet there's worse under there!

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks folks.

 

Jim, yes -- red center lenses.

 

Here's a pic of the interior. Fairly complete, decent condition, uncut door cards with the usual water damage and crinkly chrome.

 

And yes, I'm keeping the Prototipo steering wheel.

 

It's currently in the seller's garage. He doesn't need it out of there today or tomorrow. I can wait out Boston's bad winter, at least to some extent. I think I may have it towed home and sus out the condition of the engine before I decide what to do with it. It's probably worth more to someone else whole, intact, and running than it is to me as a parts car, and it may be more in line with what the car's future should be.

 

We'll see.

post-32582-0-40769000-1425264503_thumb.j

post-32582-0-57799800-1425264528_thumb.j

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What Toby said, tho I do hate to agree with him.  :D 

 

You may well be seeing the tip of the proverbial iceberg.

 

Cheers,

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like lots of good parts at least! I may be in contact for a few for my recently acquired Tii! I'm curious what ya got it for. See if it beats some of my scores :P

Edited by roadhog0

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even though you don't have the welding skills, if you can get it running, someone who really wants a 2002 and does have welding skills will want it.  And since they ain't makin' any more, you may well save one from the crusher.  That rusty right rear wheel arch can be repaired as it stands without replacing.  I did one side of my '69 by MIG welding in a heavy plate on the inside, then reinforcing the spring perch inside the wheel well.  It's been doing just fine since I fixed it back about 1986.  Repairing the subframe mount wouldn't be terribly difficult if you can find a sound replacement from a nice CA or AZ parts car.  Make a cardboard template from the sound left side, flip it over and you have a template to locate your repair piece.  

 

Welding both places is more "agricultural" -- strength is more important than beauty, so a commercial welding shop (vs an auto body shop) would be a more economical.  I had such a shop repair a rusted frame on my Nissan truck some years ago, and they did a great job very reasonably.  And you can always check out any vocational schools in the area--either to take a welding course yourself or whether one of the classes there would take on welding up your car.

 

So my vote would be--get it running and price some welding repairs--or sell as is body-wise but running/stopping.  Nice steering wheel, BTW.

 

cheers

mike

 

PS--someone with a 68 or 69 is gonna want to trade you for those red center lenses....they've been  NLA since about Sept 1969...

Edited by mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've already bought the car; I just don't have it at my house yet. I'm looking for opinion on a) whether rust that has caused one of the rear subframe mount points to break away from the body clearly puts the car into parts car territory, and B) whether it's reasonable to think that I can yank it back from that fate to the side of the living by learning to weld it myself. 

 

I've already given it something of a stay of execution -- I've decided to get it home, see if I can get it running, and examine the full extent of the rust before I start pulling parts off it to satisfy the eager masses.

The new book The Best Of The Hack Mechanic available at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0998950742, inscribed copies of all books available at www.robsiegel.com

1972 tii (Louie), 1973 2002 (Hampton), 1975 ti tribute (Bertha), 1972 Bavaria, 1973 3.0CSi, 1979 Euro 635CSi, 1999 Z3, 1999 M Coupe, 2003 530i sport, 1974 Lotus Europa Twin Cam Special (I know, I know...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And after you've honed your welding skills on the (formerly-Inka) '73, Rob, you'll be ready to tackle this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161620821343?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It's been repeat-listed at least 6 times, achieved a high bid of $3,350, but still has a reserve hovering, I suspect, somewhere north of $8,000.

Good luck on this project: I'm hoping you pull it back from the parts-car precipice!

Regards,

Steve

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems to make sense to first see if you can get it running and stopping reasonably well, in addition to doing an inventory, of sorts, on the rest of the needs the car has. If you want to learn to weld, I'd say go for it. Buy a MIG welder, do some practice on some similar gauge sheet metal, and then take a stab at the easiest parts first. I'd imagine that, at the very least, you could fix the rear arches functionally. If it's butt ugly and you just decide you don't want to tackle the bigger stuff, then you can still always sell it at that point or pay someone else to finish the welding. I took a similar approach when starting work on my Alfa and have really enjoyed the process of learning to weld and my skills have improved over the last year. Go ahead, just try it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...