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Accelerator firewall linkage return spring question


Gil. H.

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So this weekend I take off the carb (32/36), clean and blow out everything, put it back on and enjoy how well everything is working. I forgot to reattach the accelerator return spring on the firewall and noticed how "easy" the pedal travel was and how responsive the carb was.

After reattaching the spring, all is back to normal, but this got me thinking how much I enjoyed driving it without the spring. Has anyone replaced the stock spring with a less "strong" spring to get easier (faster) pedal travel? I know that it's not good to run without the spring attached as this will eventually impact the springs on the carb, but if there's a replacement spring that you guys are running, let me know. Or other impacts I may not be aware of.

Thanks.

Gil. Hernandez
'73 2002 - Fjord Blue
Austin, TX

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If you examine the bellcrank on the carb linkage, you'll notice two holes for the spring to fit.  Using the hole closer to the shaft will stiffen the linkage, using the further hole will make it softer.  

 

I'd be leery of driving without any return spring at all; it's there for a reason.  You can take your old spring to a hardware store and find a softer one that will fit if you want less tension.  And when fitting the spring, be sure and install the end that's VERY close to the heater hose so (1) the spring doesn't rub on the hose and (2) the hook end of the spring doesn't touch the hose.  Either situation will eventually wear a hole in the hose and/or cause the accelerator linkage to bind.  Come to think of it, that may be your problem now. 

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Thanks Mike.

I'll check the current spring setup and verify the proximity to the heater hose.

I may work on finding a softer spring, the return using the pedal box and carb springs only was surprisingly good, but way too soft and agree with you that the spring is an integral part of the linkage, so it's back on.

Gil. Hernandez
'73 2002 - Fjord Blue
Austin, TX

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Gilbert,

I have an assortment of return springs in my garage. Stop by and we can see which one works best. Or stop by any decent auto parts store, look in the section with the generic replacement screws, fasteners and such. That's where I found a package with about 6 different return springs to try when I was putting together my sidedraft setup.

A spring with too much tension can induce premature wear on the carb's throttle shaft, resulting in a vacuum leak. At the same time, it should reliably snap the throttle closed when you take your foot off the pedal.

Ed Z

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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  • 2 months later...

Funny, I took my spring off last week when I was messing with the wires that run behind it and I forgot to put it back on.  I noticed it yesterday and went into the shop to try and find a suitable substitute, while mentally composing a 'parts wanted ad' to get another OE part.  I installed a smaller one I found and it seemed to fit fine.  As I was closing the hood I looked down and the original had been hung up after falling out!  I put it back in and now realize what inspired you to post this thread.  The pedal felt STIFF after running without a spring.  I decided to use the smaller one for now and put the original in the 'parts department'.  It is a small change for such a huge difference in how the pedal feels.  

 

When I say 'pedal', I am actually using a roller I made.  I think the small contact point might make the spring difference more noticeable.  ( I put the roller on as a temporary fix until I put a hinged pedal on the floor, but have grown to like it.  I think I will make a rubber pad for it out of a piece of hose. )

 

002.jpg

 

005.jpg

 

Yep, that is corrosion on the pedal shaft.  I have a replacement, which I bought off another FAQ member.  My car apparently had a leaky clutch master cylinder for some time, as there was a lot of rust in the pedal box and that part of the floor pan.  The part of the pedal shaft that goes through the plastic bushings is thin as well.  That slop was the main reason for finding a replacement.  That thin shaft is 'compromised' and bends easier than the new one will... I am going to check and make sure I am still getting FULL throttle and give it a little bend up, if not.

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Funny, I took my spring off last week when I was messing with the wires that run behind it and I forgot to put it back on.  I noticed it yesterday and went into the shop to try and find a suitable substitute, while mentally composing a 'parts wanted ad' to get another OE part.  I installed a smaller one I found and it seemed to fit fine.  As I was closing the hood I looked down and the original had been hung up after falling out!  I put it back in and now realize what inspired you to post this thread.  The pedal felt STIFF after running without a spring.  I decided to use the smaller one for now and put the original in the 'parts department'.  It is a small change for such a huge difference in how the pedal feels.  

 

When I say 'pedal', I am actually using a roller I made.  I think the small contact point might make the spring difference more noticeable.  ( I put the roller on as a temporary fix until I put a hinged pedal on the floor, but have grown to like it.  I think I will make a rubber pad for it out of a piece of hose. )

 

002.jpg

 

005.jpg

 

Yep, that is corrosion on the pedal shaft.  I have a replacement, which I bought off another FAQ member.  My car apparently had a leaky clutch master cylinder for some time, as there was a lot of rust in the pedal box and that part of the floor pan.  The part of the pedal shaft that goes through the plastic bushings is thin as well.  That slop was the main reason for finding a replacement.  That thin shaft is 'compromised' and bends easier than the new one will... I am going to check and make sure I am still getting FULL throttle and give it a little bend up, if not.

 

 

Cool stuff - reminds me of the roller pedals available for old VW's.

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Thank you.  I have seen those as well.  They are a fairly large diameter, which might not work here.  I checked and am getting full throttle with it pressed against the carpet.  I also went ahead and put a piece of rubber hose over it.  UPgrade!  

033.jpg

 

For the sake of the original topic, I snapped a photo of the spring I am using, along with the original hanging next to it, for comparison.  The smaller one does clear the hose behind it, but not by much.  EDIT: Back on the stock spring.  Turns out I like a more pressure under my foot.  Tiring trying not to step on the gas otherwise.

034.jpg

Edited by '76Mintgrun'02

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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