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Overheating, eliminated everything, what next?!


brian2002

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Also, worth pointing out that the L red light on the dash is on, and when I test the batt on idle I'm getting 11.5. Therefore the alternator needs to be refurbished at some point I think. I wonder would this contribute to a dodgy gauge...

 

Before you refurbish the alternator, make sure it has a ground wire. It is needed to charge. I had that problem when I bought my car. The PO had replaced the alternator and regulator and it still would not charge. I added the ground wire and problem solved.

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FWIW, my rebuilt alternator at idle doesnt put out any power. It's gotta be over about 1100 RPM. So keep that in mind.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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FWIW, my rebuilt alternator at idle doesnt put out any power. It's gotta be over about 1100 RPM. So keep that in mind.

 

Cheers, will keep that in mind. I'll get someone to hold at 1100RPM and then I'll test.

 

What should the reading be in that case?

 

And always good to have removed this regardless if it had a bit of life left in her!

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FWIW, my rebuilt alternator at idle doesnt put out any power. It's gotta be over about 1100 RPM. So keep that in mind.

 

Cheers, will keep that in mind. I'll get someone to hold at 1100RPM and then I'll test.

 

What should the reading be in that case?

 

And always good to have removed this:

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FWIW, my rebuilt alternator at idle doesnt put out any power. It's gotta be over about 1100 RPM. So keep that in mind.

 

Cheers, will keep that in mind. I'll get someone to hold at 1100RPM and then I'll test.

 

What should the reading be in that case?

 

And always good to have removed this:

post-47922-0-70873400-1416233108.jpeg

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