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Severe Overheat. Easier To Replace Engine?


chance.hughes

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Initially that probably sounds excessive, but I'm pretty sure I did more than get a blown head gasket. Also, I managed to find a running M10 engine for a good price. The big difference is that I'll be going from a carb to fuel injection with a turbo charger.

Does anyone know anything about the bosche fuel injection pump, which is what came with the "new" engine?

And I'm not sure where the best place is to put the intercooler?

And as a side note, any recommendations for a replacement clutch?

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Coupla clarifying questions:

 

1.  Confirm the engine now in your car is not the original engine--the car's VIN and the engine number should match.  If your current engine has a number between about 25847xx and 2593703 it's from a '73.  Post the number so we can confirm.  If you have matching numbers, it's to your advantage to at least keep the old engine for a future owner.

 

2. The engine you're considering:  what's it from?  Is the fuel injection mechanical (i.e. from a tii) or is it Bosch Jetronic from an E21 (320)?  Or is it from an early E30, which uses an entirely different (and better) EFI/engine management system.  Regardless, the turbo is an add on (unless of course it's from a 2002 Turbo, which is very unlikely) so you're gonna want to know what kind of turbo, was it a kit or did someone shade tree engineer it.  

 

3. Until we know the source/VIN on your replacement engine, it's gonna be impossible to tell whether it'll need a 215mm or 228mm clutch.  If your current engine is really from a roundie (numbers would be in the 166xxxx-167xxxx, or 257-259xxxx range) then it has a 228mm flywheel and clutch.  The only squarelights with that size clutch were '74 tii's.  And IIRC all E21 and E30 M10 engines used the smaller clutch.  

 

Lotsa turbo info in the Board's archives, including places to stash the intercooler...

 

Let us know whatcha have for further guidance.

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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The severely overheated engine probably just has a warped head and other possible head damage like broken rockers.  I don't think you could hurt the bottom end at all.  Many years ago I stupidly didn't fix my temp gauge, and killed my head real good.

If you're lucky, you could just pull the head and have a quick machining and inspection, and put it back together and have it running for years to come with just a few hundred bucks.

It just depends on which bottom end is in better shape, and what work you want to do.  If both bottom ends are in comparable condition, I'd just do the headwork myself. it just depends on your preference for the work involved.  Personally, I'd rather not mess with pulling the engine and dealing with everything involved in that.  Some guys would rather dig deeper to fix more things and spend more money, though.

No matter what you do, I'd still go ahead pull the head off that engine thats in it, and that'll give you the chance to have it inspected and take a look at the cylinder walls for wear, and then help you make a better decision.

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Second try on this reply.

So I've been getting some additional information on what I have. I'm open to rebuilding the engine I have and adding the fuel injection manifold and maybe the turbo. I'm not sure which would be a faster job.

1. The vin on my 2002 is 2373054, though I didn't confirm if that matches the overheated engine or not.

2. The turbo kit is definitely shade tree, Garrett turbo with an inter cooler. Photo attached.

3. The Bosch fuel pump/ air flow meter has an attached picture.

4. The number I found stamped on the "new" engine is +5472703+, and it looks like "20 SB" is stamped on there also.

post-47611-0-54297100-1409349007_thumb.j

post-47611-0-59564300-1409349024_thumb.j

post-47611-0-13531600-1409349079_thumb.j

post-47611-0-98224100-1409349100_thumb.j

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According to realoem.com that engine is from a 1977 E21 320i automatic.

Edited by GreenSwede

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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Okay, that's good to know.  Thanks for the link GreenSwede.  From what I gather the jetronic isn't the best setup out there, but would you recommend that or the Weber 32/36 carb that is currently on my overtemped engine?

 

When I got my 2002 the owner said the engine and transmission were rebuilt, and the transmission was a replacement.  I'm assuming the engine isn't the original either, but if it is I will hang on to it as recommended, mike.  I'm finally going to get some time tomorrow and the next few days to start really working on this project.

 

I'm in San Diego, CA.  Any recommendations for local parts suppliers?

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Why dont you pull your head and see what a machine shop thinks? It could be cracked if rightly toasted get them to pressure test it and if its ok skim it if needed. If its a fresh engine Id be in no hurry to bin it. M10s are great but costly to rebuild properly (Its why there great I suppose!)

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Well I got the head off but the whole engine is going to need some work.  The #1 piston did not survive and took with it the cylinder and valves.  I'll attach a couple pictures here to see what you think.  

 

So I have a decision to make. Here's what I have.

 

1: M10 with shot piston, blown head gasket and potentially more.

 

2: M10 (cost $300) with antifreeze and thick brown oil in the sump and a corroded valve compartment (unknown condition of the pistons and cylinders).

 

Should I get my $300 back, or break down both engines and see if I can make one work, or look for another cheap engine to buy that actually runs??

 

 

post-47611-0-30162200-1410066577_thumb.j

post-47611-0-86539400-1410066588_thumb.j

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Did the valves stick openor did something drop in there, like a nut or something Im trying to understand why the piston is so damaged? Are the valves bent I cant see the head damage from the shot. I would imagine that the cylinder wall is in need of a rebore but couldnt be sure. With the hammering ist appeared to have gotten your crank could also have been damaged.

The engine you say you have as a replacment has a corroded valve compartment?? How do you know this if you havent had its head off?

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The exhaust port on the number one cylinder doesn't close all the way.  When the #1 is TDC the rocker arm for the exhaust port doesn't rest all the way against the cam shaft and the rocker has a little play in it because the valve isn't coming all the shut.  I can't tell if it was like that before or if the aluminum speckling built up on the valves has caused it to stick open.

 

On the second engine, I pulled the valve cover and there is a lot of build up from water being present in there for probably a long period of time.  I couldn't tell if there was any rust pitting, so it could just need a full breakdown and hone job to clean things up.

 

73touring thanks for the advice.  

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