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Adding An Aux Fuse Box?


TurkisM2002

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I'm debating whether to add an aux fuse box to support future electrical upgrades while i have the car stripped. I'm also rewrapping the wiring harness and taking care of any bad connections...so now is the time for when I can do it cleanly. 

 

I definitely want to add a stereo system (nothing fancy or booming: HU/amp/4 speakers) and VDO gauges (water temp, oil temp, voltage).   

 

I'm concerned with tapping into existing circuits for switched power and over loading those circuits. I thought adding an aux fuse box would be smart...(or overkill?)  

 

I'm also performing the M20 swap as well. I haven't even yet considered any additional electrical requirements.

 

 

Thanks

 

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How far are you in your m20 swap ??

Not far. I have all the parts and pieces - motor, trans, cooling, drive shaft, 3.91 LSD. Did suspension overhaul first, now body and electrical. Next will be test fitting motor and trans, cutting for radiator, etc. the very last thing will be paint of course. I have a personal blog on here that I don't really keep up to date. Any questions shoot me a message.

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Use an early six fuse box. That would be slick.

I added one under the dash. Amp and fogs.

E21? Well everything else is e21 or e30 so why not. Well I was thinking about sticking the second fuse block under the dash somewhere. Need room to mount the ECU. Is it small? I'd like to have some hot and switched circuits. Hot as in alarm, door locks. Switched for radio, gauges, ejector seat.

Edited by chrisracer79
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It is a hell of a lot of work, (I think it took me over two weeks as I soldered and heat-shrinked everything and which I recommend) but you should definitely go for it. Lets face it, the blade type fuses are far superior to the original, and since you're not staying stock, more the better. I also installed all digital VDO gauges. I went with a generic 18 circuit GM harness. It was nice to have the extra circuits for stereo, heated seats, etc. If you need some help adapting the stock switches over, or anything else PM me.

'76 Inca, restored to a roundie

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It is a hell of a lot of work, (I think it took me over two weeks as I soldered and heat-shrinked everything and which I recommend) but you should definitely go for it. Lets face it, the blade type fuses are far superior to the original, and since you're not staying stock, more the better. I also installed all digital VDO gauges. I went with a generic 18 circuit GM harness. It was nice to have the extra circuits for stereo, heated seats, etc. If you need some help adapting the stock switches over, or anything else PM me.

 

 

brendang, I had thought briefly about upgrading the fuse block to a newer style, but honestly didn't think it was worth the effort. Most of the original harness is actually in good shape, there are some problem areas, but they can be fixed.  If it were a complete disaster, I probably would have gone the GM/universal hotrod harness route.      What was involved with changing over to a newer ATC/ATO style fuse block? Is it just changing the terminal ends? 

 

Anyway just for clarification, I'm looking to add an additional fuse block under the dash, not replace the original fuse block.

 

Thanks

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Pull source directly off the battery.  The original wire is sized tor the amps of the existing circuits and can be "over amped" if a new circuit is piggy backed onto them.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Pull source directly off the battery.  The original wire is sized tor the amps of the existing circuits and can be "over amped" if a new circuit is piggy backed onto them.

 

 

Hi Jim, since I'm locating the batt to the trunk, I'm mounting an E30 batt distribution block to the firewall from which I will draw power from. So yes, straight from the battery.

 

As far as switching source is concerned, any convenient areas I could tap into?   I think my plan is to have a small 6 or 9 gang fuse box under the dash along with a separate set of ganged relays (1 each) for radio, electric fan, and gauges.

 

Other circuits I may consider ... alarm, locks, and perhaps power for the M20 ECU. I have a complete M20/ECU engine harness. 

 

Thanks

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I saw painless has an aux fuse kit. Thought about making it myself. There's one strip for constant power, and one for switched. I'm not sure why there's a relay for the constant powered switch. Any ideas?

 

post-45427-0-38504300-1409074022_thumb.j

 

This kit sells for $175. I know I can build it for pennies on the dollar, but I need some help understand the purpose of the relays with respect to the constant power strip. 

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Chris I would like to see pics of your m20 setup .. I have the blade style fuses under my dash as well to power up everything I got too .., if you have any questions about your m20 swap drop me line since I already have an m20 in mine all done and running as my dd ..

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Hey tony yes I probably have a ton of questions! Right now just sorting out the wiring. Do you have any pics on your fuse box setup under dash? I can't decide what style of fuse block to use. Also did you have to run any wires for the m20 outside of the wiring harness?

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