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How To Store Engine Blocks, Cranks, Etc


dasfrogger

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I've got a few m10's and m20's in various states of disrepair in my workspace and it's time to pick a few to keep and put them in storage. I plan to store everything in my basement and will need to make everything look neat and tidy to make the wife happy. It's probably worth noting that these blocks/cranks haven't been freshly honed or machined, but just pulled and degreased.

 

What's the best way to store everything and keep it from rusting etc? I've heard of folks coating bare engine blocks with anything from WD-40 to gun oil, ATF, Cosmoline, Crisco, etc. Anyone here have a preferred product?

 

I'd like to wrap the block in kitchen plastic wrap after and stick it on a shelf - mostly because i think it'll look better (and keep the wife happier) than double black trash bagging it. any reason to go for cling wrap over trash bags or vice versa?

 

Same process go for the cranks - coat in WD-40 or some other goo and saran wrap? I understand cranks should be stored sitting on their ends instead of their lobes.

 

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I can't see how plastic wrap will enhance the appearance of the block, but if it pleases your wife I guess that's what matters. I don't know that I would coat the block at all, but if I did it would just be to spray grease or cosmoline on machined surfaces.

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We did this not too long ago....

 

I grease the machined parts (bores, bearing saddles, etc) then oil the rest, with engine oil,

and put it in a clear heavy trash bag.  Then put another clear trash bag over that.

 

That seems to work.

 

If it starts rusting, you can see it through the clear bag.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Not trashing anyone's techniques, but if it's put in a sealed plastic bag I would be concerned about condensation. Maybe that's unfounded concern.

You are correct, dessicant bags should be in the bagged part to absorb the moisture.  If opened, the dessicant bags may need to be replaced, because they may already be saturated.

Usually covering the machined areas with grease is enough and leave the bag open to the atm if in a bag.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Agreed about something for a dessicant, but I never seem to have it when I bag things up.

I DO heat them a bit, then draw as much air out as possible, and try to keep the bags closed because:

 

storing metal things in unheated buildings around here guarantees a ton

of condensation anyway, so if I try to get a 'mostly dry' bag, I get a LOT less

water than if it's open to atmosphere.

 

It's only partly successful no matter how I do it, it seems.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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