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Indicator Stalk And Brake Light Problems Blinker


felix_666

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I have searched extensively and have tried a couple of suggestions but to no avail.

 

My indicator stalk (right hand side) and brake lights aren't responding.

 

As of last week they were, I've not worked on anything electrical since then.

 

Hazard light switch operates the indicators without problem, so I assuming the relay is fine.

 

Headlights, fan, dash all work fine.

 

I pulled the the stalk and everything looked ok. Seems like it has been re-soldered before and there is fair bit of oxidation on one joint - could this be the issue?

 

I have another stalk which needs repairing and once I do this I will fit it. 

 

I'm assuming the brake light switch is somehow related, but perhaps just a coincidence?

 

Thanks for any help, this is one of the last hurdles before putting my car back in the road after 7 years!

 

Will

 

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__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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Will-

 

Blinker switch is a weak point in these cars, in my experience.  They tend to get abused while operating the wipers, I had to repair mine several times.  A repaired switch may solve it, best outcome.  Treat it gently once working, that will serve you well.

 

Your brake light problem is likely unrelated to the other issue.  May be a fuse, the switch, or something else.

 

The brake light switch is operated by a linkage, and mechanicals usually do not fail in these systems. More likely the switch internals, or perhaps it's come loose and has backed out of the mounting in the bracket? Can't recall it the switch closes with plunger in or out, should be obvious when you look whilst pressing the pedal.  Is that the switch above the pedal in the last photo, under the demister hose and just right of the steering column? Can't see the

 

Mine proved reliable once I installed a relay to avoid high currents overloading and melting the contacts.  Of course, I had more than the stock number of bulbs in the circuit, so the relay was more or less mandatory.

 

When you locate the brake light switch, test for voltage at the supply wire (violet/white?) to the switch, or take the wires off and short against each other to bypass.  If your brake lights work, replace the switch. You're done. If no voltage, check the fuse.

 

If voltage is present with key on, and still no brake lights, check the bulbs (I know, simple, should be the first thing you check). Verify reverse lights work, for example, and swap into the brake sockets.  If they work whilst being pressed into the sockets but NOT while sitting on their own, then you have a bad contact, which can be bent from the back side to apply more 'spring force' against the bulb center contact. Some consider this a maintenance procedure, I do this when restoring these lights.

 

If voltage is present and bulbs are known good, check for voltage at the brake light terminals on the light (lower inside on a roundie, bottom on a square light).  The wire to brake lights is typically green w/red stripe.

 

If all is working as designed and you still have no lights - even with voltage and good lamps - then send me a message, I'll go into laborious detail and perhaps help you restore them ... it's what I do.

Edited by MoBrighta

Andy the tail light guy says "Be Seen, and Not Hurt!"  [mailto:mobrighta@comcast.net]

Lighting Upgrades for E3, E9, E10, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39 - front & back
Tail Light upgrades keep them off your tail, out of your trunk;
Headlight film keeps your 'eyes' from being scratched out or broken.

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Brake lights:  of course first check the fuse.  If it's OK, have someone watch the brake lights while you

1. bridge the terminals on the brake light switch--if the brake lights then illuminate, then the problem isn't the wiring, fuse or brake lights themselves.  If they work, then...

2. unbolt the the brake light switch and depress the plunger with a small screwdriver blade and let it snap out to its full stroke.  If the brake lights now work, squirt a little tuner cleaner or even WD40 on the plunger and work it back and forth several times.  If it now functions properly, you've fixed the problem; if not, new brake light switches are not expensive.  Make sure it's adjusted properly so the lights turn off when you release the brake pedal.  

 

Turn signals:  Presume you have the turn signal lever on the right side of the column, combined with the wiper on/off switch, similar to US 72 and 73 cars.  You might try squirting some tuner cleaner down into the switch to clean the contacts, then re-grease with some silicone grease.  If that doesn't work, drop me an e-mail--I did a column on troubleshooting/repairing those combination switches and that may help you find your problem.

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Hey, congratulations, thanks for letting us know.

 

I am always thankful when it's a simple fix.

Andy the tail light guy says "Be Seen, and Not Hurt!"  [mailto:mobrighta@comcast.net]

Lighting Upgrades for E3, E9, E10, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39 - front & back
Tail Light upgrades keep them off your tail, out of your trunk;
Headlight film keeps your 'eyes' from being scratched out or broken.

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