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A COMPLETE Guide to Megasquirt on the 2002


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I've started putting together a step by step guide to running megasquirt. I shall include settings data for pretty much everything I can think of and will include my personal experiences where applicable with the goal of giving megasquirters a solid foundation to work from. Feedback is appreciated!

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EGO CONTROL

Ego Sensor Type: Single Wide Band (assuming you are using Innovate LC-1)

1st Ego Sensor Port: Local

Ignition Events Per Step: (Cruise RPM divided by 120) For a 5 speed this would be approx. 25

Controller Authority +/-%: This is how much the LC-1 can adjust AFR Mixture.

Active Above Coolant: I set mine to 150

Active Above RPM: I prefer 500

Active Below TPS: Some people do not like to have the wideband adjust the AFR at WOT or even near it, so set it at a percentage that you feel comfortable with. I do 101% and let it make adjustments.

Active Below MAP: Same as above.

Active Above MAP: You may filter out wideband inputs at low MAP settings such as under decal.

Algorithm: PID

PID Proportional Gain: 20

PID Integral: 100

PID Derivative: 0

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The below settings should work for a stock displacement M10 running 24lb injectors.

I use and recommend the follow injector:

Bosch part number 0-280-150-947 / Ford Motorsport part # F1TE-D5A

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3456-bosch-24-lb-fuel-injector-blue-top-bosch-0-280-150-947.aspx

These are a little bit pricey but work very well for an N/A motor even with high compression and an aggressive cam. If you are turboing the car, you might want something with a higher flow rate.

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Below are the appropriate settings for a Ford EDIS set up. There is much confusion about the "going high" setting but I can assure you that these are the correct settings for megasquirt II or III.

You can get a Tach signal by tapping a wire to your 2002 tach input from PIN 2 on the EDIS module. If you want to smooth out the tach motion, try putting a 2200uF cap or 3000uF cap in the line.

I also recommend using the Accel 140028 coil as it allows the use of the stock style 2002 plug wires (Ireland Engineering also sells a very nice set of silicone wires that may be used).

Coil is available here for a very good price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N8DHPE/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

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Again these are the correct settings for an EDIS configuration. You can play with the cranking advance for a better start, I am actually running 5 degrees of advance now on my car. I arrived at 5 degrees by dividing my idle speed by the amount of idle advance that I was running so 5 degrees would be the same fraction if it is advance over cranking speed.

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General Settings / Lags

For the input smoothing factors, a setting of 100 means that there is no "smoothing." This gives you more response, but if you are experience noise issues you can dial it back to get a cleaner, more steady signal. I have found the TPS set at 100 to be very helpful so you get a quick throttle response, the MAP I dial back a bit so it doesn't modulate too much and the RPM I just dial back to 90.

I like the LAMBDA at 90 as well, and that seems to work well with the LC-1. If you use this in conjunction with the PID settings that I posted it should work pretty quickly and smoothly.

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EGO CONTROL

Ego Sensor Type: Single Wide Band (assuming you are using Innovate LC-1)

1st Ego Sensor Port: Local

Ignition Events Per Step: (Cruise RPM divided by 120) For a 5 speed this would be approx. 25

Controller Authority +/-%: This is how much the LC-1 can adjust AFR Mixture.

Active Above Coolant: I set mine to 150

Active Above RPM: I prefer 500

Active Below TPS: Some people do not like to have the wideband adjust the AFR at WOT or even near it, so set it at a percentage that you feel comfortable with. I do 101% and let it make adjustments.

Active Below MAP: Same as above.

Active Above MAP: You may filter out wideband inputs at low MAP settings such as under decal.

Algorithm: PID

PID Proportional Gain: 20

PID Integral: 100

PID Derivative: 0

A word about PID:

It is really much better than the "simple" algorithm. As I understand it, it calculates how far off the LAMBDA is and tries to correct by as much.

From the following link:

"PID (Proportianal Integral Derivitive) is a control method widely used in industry to control systems in a closed loop setup. It starts by calculating an error between its current position and the target position, in this case the AFR target value and current value. There are 3 parts to the control system:

P (Proportianal Gain): Determins the reaction to the current error calculated.

I (Integral Gain): Determins the reaction based on previous calculations.

D (Derivitive Gain): Alters the reaction based on how much the error has changed.

A bit of trial and error is needed here, but generally 10-20% is good in Proportianal, 60-110% is good in Intergral and I leave the Derivitaive at Zero."

http://www.extraefi.co.uk/ego_sensors.htm

I have found that increasing "D" to 20 helps to smooth the corrections so that it does not oscillate quite as much. Perhaps try starting at 0 and then increase it 1 increment at a time until you have a smooth response on your AFR corrections.

I found that getting the PID settings right were quite helpful in getting smooth running and idle.

I have also found that with good PID settings you may increase the ego correction limits. As you may have noticed mine is set to 20%. I have noticed that even with a fairly "tuned" map there are instances where the AFR does require nearly 20% correction. I can see no reason not to allow this other than the fact that before I switched to PID it would cause surging.

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Wow!! Awesome job!!! I have been looking this stuff up for months and not anyway near. Thank you so much!

FOR SALE-----74 2002tii 2782194 Turkis, Megasquirt, Korman road sport springs, Bilstein HD shocks, 13" FPS Bottle Caps

 

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i keep burning up EDIS-4 Coil packs (the motorcraft type) iv ordered a ACCEL coil pack and a set of NGK plugs Iv herd that Motorcraft EDIS_4 coil packs dont like bosch spark plugs that "could be my issue" kinda strange lots of 02/EDIS-4 users claim to use all oem stuff (meaning all from 1990-95 ford Escourt) the idea of putting a motorcraft spark plug in Bimmer is like eating the cheepest hotdog and then washing it down with most expensive wine available.

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i keep burning up EDIS-4 Coil packs (the motorcraft type) iv ordered a ACCEL coil pack and a set of NGK plugs Iv herd that Motorcraft EDIS_4 coil packs dont like bosch spark plugs that "could be my issue" kinda strange lots of 02/EDIS-4 users claim to use all oem stuff (meaning all from 1990-95 ford Escourt) the idea of putting a motorcraft spark plug in Bimmer is like eating the cheepest hotdog and then washing it down with most expensive wine available.

I ran an OEM coil pack with NGK plugs for years and didn't have a problem. Are your dwell settings correct?

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Which unit are you using? Could you post pics of your PCB front/back? I've got MS1 with the green PCB, but I bought it off a volvo guy a while ago with the understanding it was ready to go. I noticed it's been modified though, I believe just a boost related modification, but I'd like to get it back to OEM if possible for one less possible problem.

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