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EARLY o2 MVP Nose installed


rabbit

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Just a few comments of my experience with MVP nose that I just had installed on my 73 o2 stock. The Fab RestoShop in San Martin Ca did the work and paint.

After looking for a good condition used nose and saw the prices of good ones going for top dollar and rust I went with MVP. To my knowledge these are manufactured in Taiwan not China (although Taiwan could be taken over by China, it has not last I checked this am). Nose fit perfectly as far as sizing. No problem on install. I asked what did the shop think of the gauge and strength compared to NOS... their opinion was great. IMHO it was better than putting on a rusty labor intensive used part of nearly 50 years old. A few issue now that I'm piecing the AC back in and the rest. The headlamp Buckets have 4 screws on the back that mount to the new nose, the holes are much too large on the new nose. The metal tabs that the wiring harness lays in just behind the top of the radiator are non existent. ( appreciate anyone with a better idea than drilling holes and zip ties to remedy this). And the support bracket where the hood hinge attaches has no lower holes where the AC lower fan bracket mounts. Heard the grills are a little loose but in this but not there yet. I did notice there are no holes drilled to attach the grills Land R.  

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I bought a replacement nose panel from BMW in 2010 and had to drill holes for the left/right grilles. AFAIK, 02's never had factory AC, so perhaps the holes drilled on your original nose were modified from the dealer.

 

Those holes for the headlight buckets look comparable to the stock '67 nose panel I just cut off. I'm actually about to install my new MVP nose panel this week. 

 

The fit of the new nose panel looks great. Love the color!

- Project 67' 1600-2

- Pig Cheek 71' 1602

 

 

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Thx! Was thinking how to work around that wire harness that passes behind radiator. Found these as a possible solution. Will you pre drill holes for a wire loom before paint? Any ideas for this post paint?

Y the fit is really good. :)

30D25FCD-C9BA-4A2D-90EE-A670D906FEFE.jpeg

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Thx for the input!  Looks like those work by attaching to car by drilling a hole? Unless I’m not seeing this correctly.  I should have spotted this problem before painting. I could of then had 

holes drilled and surfaces sealed. 

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1 hour ago, rabbit said:

Thx for the input!  Looks like those work by attaching to car by drilling a hole? Unless I’m not seeing this correctly.  I should have spotted this problem before painting. I could of then had 

holes drilled and surfaces sealed. 

you could still drill holes and just use a Q-tip to Dab some paint in the hole to seal it up. Let it dry and the. Use the plastic clamps. Put masking tape where you’re going to drill so the bit doesn’t slip and you don’t crack the paint, use a new sharp bit 

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Edited by CoastalCrush
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Max-

73' BMW 2002

Member # 2329

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This is why a '100 point' restoration costs 6 times what a 'good paint job' does-

 

the half- million dollar car gets put together at least 3 times before it gets paint, and probably

twice after.

 

The rest of us use zip ties.

 

t

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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5 hours ago, Mike G said:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8O7HM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

I’ve used these for routing an air line in an area I couldn’t fit a drill. A smaller one would work fine for wires so long as you routed them out of sight. 

 

Is that $30 for one?!

John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

bmw_spin.gif

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