URL:
http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/DGAVtype.html
it is. Much more work to explain than do.
Essentially, you locate the jet holder and unscrew it (accessible from the outside of the carb), then blow through the very small openings (one or two in the sides, one down the centre axis) in the brass jet to clear it.
On a
Weber 32/36, the idle jet holder is on the passenger side of the carb body and may be a plain brass style with a slot head (as #9 on above diagram), or could be an idle-cut solenoid which looks like a 1/2" diameter by 1.5" long aluminum cylinder with a spade terminal on the end. On the stock Solex 32/32, it will be a solenoid - also on the pass side (assuming you are not from England, Australia, New Zealand, India, or Japan, etc). The solenoids are sometimes only hand-tight but usually require a 10 to 13 mm wrench.
In both cases the jet itself might need to be removed from the holder to properly clear it out - usually, you can just pull them apart by hand but sometimes very careful use of pliers is needed. As long as you don't damage the tip or deform the body, a few scratches on the sides of the jet are not a problem. Do not use wire to poke around in the jet's centre orifice - that can damage the calibration.
The solenoid itself could be the issue - check the wire to it and make sure it has power when the ignition is on if first cleaning the jet does not solve the problem. Sometimes, they just die - it should click when power is applied. Repair is by replacement but you can also cut the end off the solenoid's plunger to get you going again in a pinch.
A
Weber idle-cut solenoid is visible in the this pic, just below center and slightly to the left:
The Solex-style is slightly different.
Good luck.
regards,
Zenon
P.S. The fact that you can drive fine at higher rpms but the engine dies at idle indicates there is enough fuel reaching the carb (idle uses far less fuel), so it is very unlikely to be the fuel pump.