If the pad behind the starter doesn't have a clear stamping on it,
I bet it's a factory rebuild or replacement.

What series (121, E12, E21, 1.8) is the head?

With rebuilds, it's always a crapshoot as to what's in the block-
I've found all different compression ratios.

t
_________________
I have a car disease. There is no cure.
I'm not even managing the symptoms very well...

TobyB wrote:

If the pad behind the starter doesn't have a clear stamping on it, I bet it's a factory rebuild or replacement. What series (121, E12, E21, 1.8) is the head? With rebuilds, it's always a crapshoot as to what's in the block- I've found all different compression ratios. t

It's a 121 head. O2 salvage said it came out of a wrecked car, but as far as they knew it was stock. I tell you, for $700 this thing is looking pretty sweet after just two cans of Gunk and some brushing.

Benz02 wrote:

Hey all, I'm trying to figure out what year it is. The head is stamped '83, it's the block I'm wondering about. The VIN stamped on it says 1255223 (which doesn't seem to correspond to the production Vin numbers), however there are other numbers in a circle, and a number 73. Just above the starter mounting point, there is a blank spot, looks like it should have a VIN stamped there, but only has a small "X" and some other little weird symbol...

At risk of putting words in your mouth, let me guess at what you really saw & what it means..

The first "VIN" you saw "stamped" was neither stamped or a VIN. This was no doubt the raw casting number that appears (cast) above the rear freeze plug on the right hand side. You can see the same last six digits in the photo I've posted below. This 1255223 is not a BMW part # or a vehicle identifier, but my photo does happen to be from a 1973 block.

If you want to know the year, at least the year the block was cast, that was the "73" number you found. Of course, that block could have been used originally in either a 73 or 74 model year car when new. At some point your engine got a later head. It may be a factory rebuild, but it could just as well be the salvage dealers erasing any traceable link as default protection from insurance recovery.

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Yup, the WAG-o-meter agrees-
you've got a rebuild, and with no vin (and the x) I guess that you have
a factory rebuilt motor. Which is good. They did (do) good work.
What's in it, though, is going to have to be either a mystery or a research
project, as you could order lots of compression ratios in your rebuild.

Drop in and find out how much oil it burns! And how well it goes...

I'm also running a mystery motor right now, and it's got good zip
(and some blue smoke, but not bad...)
which is cool for a freebie...

t
_________________
I have a car disease. There is no cure.
I'm not even managing the symptoms very well...

Thanks for the info guys. Do you know what the numbers in a circle represent on the block?