.... "A HAPPY VALVE IS A TICKING VALVE" .
Really

no ticking means zero clearence - BAD

to much tapping means too much clearence,
worn rocker shafts , worn rocker arms,
or other valve gear wear, worn out chain
tensioner not holding tension ?

double check your adjustments COLD
set to 0.006"
_________________
1976 BMW 2002 #2743711(sorry I sold it 12/25/06)
1986 BMW R65 650cc twin 19k miles
1964 BMW R27 250cc single 15K miles
2002 BMW 325xiTouring 29k miles
1984 MERCEDES-BENZ W123 300D Turbodiesel-188k miles fein-DIESEL

c.d.iesel wrote:

.... "A HAPPY VALVE IS A TICKING VALVE" . Really no ticking means zero clearence - BAD to much tapping means too much clearence, worn rocker shafts , worn rocker arms, or other valve gear wear, worn out chain tensioner not holding tension ? double check your adjustments COLD set to 0.006"

Hi C.D. I have read that it is better to go with 0.008" on the clearance as it requires less re-adjustment than 0.006". Is there any merit to this?

Thanks.
_________________
www.sfrecording.com

Give me a call, i'm in peekskill(northern westchester)
Larry
914 844 1082

The noise I am referring to is a ticking sound. I understand a slight ticking sound is normal but after I adjusted them the noise seemed much more pronounced. I went for a short run to check on performance but in all honesty I couldn't tell one way or the other. I believe the engine was not running as smooth at idle after the adjustment.
The FAQ write-up didn't specify any specific cylinder order. I started on the exhaust valve of #1 and then did the intake after rotating the crank until the cam lobe was 180 from the valve stem (if I'm explaining properly).
On the plus side, valve train was nice and clean with no build up of any kind!
_________________
74 Tii
01 S2000
06 Tacoma
"Why Johnny Ringo, looks like somebody just walked ova your grave" -Tombstone-Val Kilmer

When I adjust my valves, I generally put the car in 4th (or 5th) gear and roll it back and forth, checking/adjusting valves as a particular cylinder comes into equilibrium (both valves closed, rocker arms resting on the low side of their cam lobes, well away from the high side. This indicates that cylinder is on the power stroke. As I adjust the valves, I either wipe the oil off the rocker to show I've adjusted that valve, or mark it with a magic marker (it'll wash/wipe off easily). That way I know I've done all the valves, and it's easier (less work pushing) than trying to do the cylinders in order.

To make sure I get the adjustment right, I use two feeler gauges: a .007 and a .008. If the .007 goes in and slides out with just a little resistance, and the .008 won't go at all, then I've got it. I tend to split the difference between .006 and .008 (the range the manual gives). You can also buy feeler gauges that are stepped--they're called "go-no go gauges" but two feeler gauge leaves work just as well.

As CD said, a little noise is OK. Tight valves burn. If you have more noise now than you did, you may have gotten one just a little too loose; go back and check your work. And you also may have worn eccentrics or worn rocker arms/shafts. You can buy new standard sized eccentrics for the former problem, and Ireland makes oversize eccentrics to compensate for worn rockers and shafts.

cheers
mike
_________________
'69 Nevada sunroof--"Wolfgang"--bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-- "Ludwig"--mine since '78
'87 eta E30 coupe--"Johannes"
+ Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette)...
and Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

mike wrote:

To make sure I get the adjustment right, I use two feeler gauges: a .007 and a .008. If the .007 goes in and slides out with just a little resistance, and the .008 won't go at all, then I've got it. I tend to split the difference between .006 and .008 (the range the manual gives). As CD said, a little noise is OK. Tight valves burn. cheers mike

I used a standard type feeler gauge which was a bit difficult to maneuver due to the space constraints. Wondering if there is another type that might work better. I suspect I may have adjusted them a bit loose as I went with .008 and had difficulty with the feeler gauge due to accessibility.
_________________
74 Tii
01 S2000
06 Tacoma
"Why Johnny Ringo, looks like somebody just walked ova your grave" -Tombstone-Val Kilmer

Sarki wrote:

I used a standard type feeler gauge which was a bit difficult to maneuver due to the space constraints. Wondering if there is another type that might work better. I suspect I may have adjusted them a bit loose as I went with .008 and had difficulty with the feeler gauge due to accessibility.

I suspect that you're too loose if you were using an .008. You should go back and do as Mike says, use a go/no go technique. Yes a regular feeler gauge may be moderately difficult to maneuver, but you should be able to get them right. I suggest that before you change anything, Start by checking them all using the go/no go technique. Keep trying bigger feeler gauges until you can't get one in. Then you'll know exactly where your and which need to be adjusted.

Take your time. It just takes a little practice and patience. Always double check after you tighten the nut.
_________________
John Capoccia
Sierra Madre, CA
'70 Granada megasquirt, 5 spd, 3:91
'74 Golf tii stock