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Date: 5-13-08 08:35
From: aspire2002
Subject: Re: Greetings and 2002a Questions
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Date: 5-13-08 09:19
From: mike in Beavercreek, OH
Subject: I've owned '02s for many years, but had never driven an
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automatic until a couple of years ago. They're not the fastest thing when you let 'em shift themselves, but if you hold the tranny in second, let the engine wind up a bit and manually shift to third, they're quite spritely. I just found myself groping around for the clutch pedal with my left foot--force of habit.
While there are those who'll disagree, it's generally conceded that the late 72s and the 73s are the best '02s...if you replace the original Solex carb with a Weber (most have that already). They have the original round taillight styling, have less emissions stuff (those cars have no air pump) and are several hundred lbs lighter (and 9 inches shorter) than 74-76 cars. The later cars do have sturdier bumpers, all the better if you have braille parkers around.
BTW, if you have arthritis in your shoulders/elbows, leave the original "bus" steering wheel on the car; don't use a smaller aftermarket wheel. With no power steering, it's gonna hurt.
welcome to the 02 fraternity/sorority
mike _________________ '69 Nevada sunroof--"Wolfgang"
'73 Sahara sunroof-- "Ludwig"
'87 eta E30 coupe--"Johannes"
+ Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette)...
and Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite
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Date: 5-13-08 10:53
From: ClayW
Subject: Re: Greetings and 2002a Questions
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I recall someone on this board that installed an automatic transmission from an `84-85 (I think) 318i. It was a more modern trans that handled highway speeds a little better. _________________ ClayW
1976 Fjord 2002 Sunroof
Project Blog
"Finish the thing, do it right the first time and drive the son of a bitch!"
-Gray Baskerville on hot rod advice
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Date: 5-15-08 08:22
From: aspire2002
Subject: Re: Greetings and 2002a Questions
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Date: 5-19-08 09:22
From: ClayW
Subject: Re: Greetings and 2002a Questions
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I'd guess that you should feel good paying anything less than $10K for that car. It looks to be in great shape and well maintained. I've never been a fan of that color, but it's nice!
To cue ot you the market price of 2002 cars, here's the long and the short of it:
Free-$1500: Junk/Parts Car. Rarely will you find a car in this price range that isn't more trouble than it's worth to fix.
$1500-$3000: Beater. Usually running but with no really nice features. Be prepared to do a major repair or two; usually body/paint or motor/transmission.
$3000-$5000: Driver. Good condition with no major problems, but expect a few smaller repairs like radiator replacement, tune-ups or brake-work. Usually a good value.
$5000-$10000: Nice Car, Man! You might be lucky enough to get working A/C (don't be fooled by "just needs a recharge!"). Should have little to no rust or paint issues. Might need a tune-up or tires, but nothing more than routine auto maintenance.
$10000 And Up: Awesome Condition and/or Rare. You should be able to immediately take one of these on a cross-country roadtrip. Unless it's an ultra-rare (Alpina, Voll Cabriolet or Turbo), mortal 2002 cars should be in fantastic shape and of the color that you want to pay this much. The air conditioning should work. Many have topped $20K, but they tend to be prictine cars of considerable value. If you want a worry-free car in next-to-perfect condition, plan on $15K.
Overall, the question comes to, "What can you handle?" A $5000-6000 car would suit most of us VERY well. Hell, I bought my `76 last year for $1200 because it had a blown head gasket. But then, I didn't mind swapping out my spare motor, either!
Happy Hunting! _________________ ClayW
1976 Fjord 2002 Sunroof
Project Blog
"Finish the thing, do it right the first time and drive the son of a bitch!"
-Gray Baskerville on hot rod advice
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Date: 5-19-08 12:32
From: ClayW
Subject: Re: Greetings and 2002a Questions
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I forgot to mention a basic list of options that make the price of a sub-five-figure car go up.
1. Sunroof: Not a huge upgrade, but it's worth a few hundred buck more for the car that has a working, non-leaking one.
2. Working A/C: Again, don't be fooled by "just needs a recharge." There's a HUGE gap between almost non-working and working A/C. MANY cars have the parts and consoles for A/C, but few work. Since BMW didn't design or install these units (dealer installed kits), there's no "official" BMW way to air condition these cars. Behr and Frigiking seem to be the most common, but they all pretty much require newer style compressors. Since refurbishing an existing system starts at around $1200 (new compressor and drier) and the price goes up from there, finding a car with a solid, working A/C can be worth an extra $500 to 1500.
3. Pre-1974 cars: Those of us with `74-76, square-taillight cars don't mind the square taillights as much as we hate the US-only 5-MPH, "diving board" bumpers (though, they do make nice benches). Anyway, a 1968-73 car with smaller bumpers or a nice conversion back to Euro-bumpers on a square-taillight car is a plus. It's not so much an option as it is an area of taste. The 1974-76 cars are valued a tiny bit less because of those bumpers, however.
4. Recaros: Nice seats from E21 (3-series 1977-83) "s" cars are the standard upgrade seat. They look period correct and are getting harder and harder to find. If you find a car that already has them installed and in good shape (and matching the interior color), they will up the car's value at least $500. Since they go for $500-$2000 a pair, it's nice to find a car that already has them.
There are other upgrades that are commonly done such as an E21 overdrive five-speed, limited slip differentials and upgraded brakes. These are all of value to whoever cares. Some like things completely stock, others will upgrade if possible. It's all up to how much you want and how much you want to pay for it.
Good luck! _________________ ClayW
1976 Fjord 2002 Sunroof
Project Blog
"Finish the thing, do it right the first time and drive the son of a bitch!"
-Gray Baskerville on hot rod advice
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