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Date: 2-5-09 06:05
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: 1975 Verona Sunroof 2002 by Eurotrash
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I guess I will start by saying, HELL YEAH! I finally purchased my first running 2002!
How it began:
About four years ago while visiting my brother (Hi Bryce) in LA, I had a funny little car zip past me and it had me tingling, I HAD to find out what it was.
Being that I had been a hardcore MOPAR 'A' body fanatic for years, it was weird to me that a foreign car would make me react so profoundly!!
I flew home a few days later and almost immediately jumped on the compy and began researching. Within a few months my beloved 340 4 speed 1969 Valiant, that I had built from scratch from a lowly base model slant 6 car to a rough and tumble street racer, was on the auction block. Over time I had become increasingly enchanted with the 2002's mechanics, its perky little stance, and the fact that its a 4 banger!
In the summer of '06 I purchased a non-running 71 parts car with the understanding that I knew NOTHING about these cars. So the logic was, buy a basket case and tear it down. What better way to learn the lay out and details of a car? Later that summer I made the move to buy a car that I would want for my project. And ALAS, I found an orphaned Inka roundie out of LA and had it shipped here to Cincinnati. But, as quietly as it rolled in to my garage, it rolled right back out. Troubled times hit and I sold it to JohnySquare to park next to his cherry poppin' 76 rust rocket. Sad day. But the silver lining is the fact that he and I are now good friends and from what I can tell, we just might be this cities most fervent and active 2002 owners! (While we have spotted a few cars, we have yet to have been approached or contacted by more than one other owner.. helloooooo?!)
So my 2002 habit stagnated for a year or so... until just now! I simultaneously picked up another basket case 1600 to part out as well as my first running 2002!
Out of sunny CA comes my very own San Francisco treat!
1975 Verona #2380399
Sunroof
Auto converted to 4 speed
Weber 32/36
New Bilsteins
Rear strut brace w/ battery tray
De-smogged
Bottle caps
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=49922947251
More later.. _________________ 2002 Newbie -and dead serious about it.
The Deuce
R.G.B. Group!
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Last edited by eurotrash on 2-5-09 06:57; edited 4 times in total
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Date: 2-5-09 11:09
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: Re: 1975 Verona Sunroof 2002 by Eurotrash
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The first thing!? -- the NOS 1600 turn signals I bought over a year ago.
I have lots of ideas and a general plan. I am always keeping my eyes peeled for cars to model after. I like the sportier more aggressive looks. I don't want to mod the body or repaint, but I do want to make some common cosmetic alterations. I have the parts for a bumper conversion, long or short. I have a '71 grill set and a 1600 grill set. I am developing a look in my head.. we will see. I want a new steering wheel, I'm not in love with the later stock piece..maybe the 320is version if I can get my brain wrapped around the conversion before I purchase a wheel. Loose the font shims, at first, then a lowering sport spring set. Wheels, I want either style on the "WHEELS WHEELS WHEELS" sticky, it just depends on the overall look I settle on. I have an image in my head that has a lot of bright work. The polished roundels for the hood and trunk, a slight rake on turbines. -early bumpers. A trunk spoiler.
I have performance ideas as well. The most unusual being that I intend to use Yamaha R1 40mm bike carbs instead of the dual weber set up. Of course I will probably end up with big brakes as well..
Oh, and I have a 5 speed conversion that I just pulled out of a 1600.
- the list goes on.. but it will be tight, tasteful and well done no matter which way I go..
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| Ok, so THIS is the first thing I changed!! |
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Last edited by eurotrash on 4-5-10 06:31; edited 5 times in total
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Date: 2-9-09 07:00
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: Euro turn signal conversion
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I bought NOS euro sigs a while back and nooB nooB nooo, I learned that I had to convert them to American spec 2 conductor light bulbs like the originals. I read a bit and learned some. And then ran with the concept. This is what I did this afternoon.
Its a two part tutorial because I can only attach 5 images at a time..
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| What you're gonna need. Euro sigs, Dorman brand light sockets # 85803, #1157 bulbs, needle nose vice grips, a 3/4 inch socket, and a big C clamp. |
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| You must start by folding back the single spring bulb contact, and rolling back the two bulb ground tabs. Get a good hold and roll them back good, it makes step 5 and 7 a lot easier. |
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| These hurt, make them go away. |
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| Slip wires in through the reflector side and find a starting point for the pressing procedure. You should be able to start this by hand if the two original bulb ground tabs were rolled back properly. |
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Last edited by eurotrash on 4-5-10 06:33; edited 4 times in total
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Date: 2-9-09 07:07
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: Phase 3 Part 2: Euro turn signal conversion (nt)
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Sorry for the break.. what can ya do?
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| Slip the 3/4 inch socket over the end of the light and hold it tight to the chassis of the sig. |
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| Using all four appendages, form a press with the C clamp and gently tighten until the clamp touches the reflector. **you may need to use a shim on the light socket side to get the proper depth of press. I used a small block of wood.** |
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| It should look like this when you are done. Not a bad conversion for under 10 bucks! |
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Last edited by eurotrash on 4-5-10 06:39; edited 2 times in total
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Date: 2-22-09 08:23
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: Restuffing rear seats
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So I took possession of the car with a back seat that has no rips or tears, but was literally vinyl on springs. Today I re-stuffed the base. Pretty easy process. Not bad for my first time.
I spent $96 and change on the following supplies, enough for the back and base..
2 yards of denim for a base on the springs
120" of 1" thick, 25" wide high density foam
3/8" batting doubled over the foam
Spray adhesive
Here is the seat base top ready to strip down. It is so very in need of some love..
On the drivers end of the seat base was an interesting sticker..
And the ratty under side.. Almost no horsehair left..
After peeling back, to a vertical position, all of the rusty little tabs, and opening the hog rings, I removed the vinyl and got down and dirty. I traced the vinyl seat bottom onto the denim loosely, and cut this out to form a spring liner. I traced this piece onto the 1" foam and cut this out. I traced the foam onto the batting and yes, I cut that out as well. BUT I cut inside the line an inch or so to form the seat top. The foam and the denim will wrap around the seat frame to emulate the shape created by the former stuffing.
Using 3M spray adhesive, I glued all the pieces together to look something like this..
Once the glue dried, I rolled the padding over and set the frame into place on the denim side. I then used an upholstery needle and thread to anchor the pad to the frame.
I set the cover on the floor and worked the frame and pad into place, SEAT FRONT FIRST. Wrap the edges up and over the frame and try to hit the same holes for the tabs as were originally used. Have someone on tap to compress the seat springs to provide slack where needed.
Badda Bing! Better than new..ish. And ready for a good scrub!
[/i]
The back was a bit more tedious. I need to re-work it ot get the waves out. But over all its a huuuuuge improvement!
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Date: 2-27-09 08:30
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: 320is steering wheel conversion
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Guys, this is stupid easy. I read the article ( http://www.bayarea02.com/techtips/320_wheel/index.html )and was nervous about it. No, seriously. Its easy. And should be the same process for any year car that has the stamped steel turn signal cancellation tab. I believe that would be ALL years..
I would have taken more photos, but it went so fast that I didn't think to.
1. On the new wheel. Gently removed the horn/signal cancellation ring via the three mounting holes on the wheel side of the hub. (See above picture) This takes the longest, if you care to save the item for reuse later. It requires 4 hands, a pair of needle nose vise grips, a flat head screw driver and some patience. If you don't care to save this, whack off the locking..nubs (?) on the wheel side of the hub and discard.
2. Snag the old horn plunger from the stock wheel. Extend the wire a touch with a piece from the original horn mini-harness with a spade on it. Put a few layers of electrical tape around the plunger and back it into one of the three holes from the original horn/sig ring.
3. Position the stock stamped steel signal cancellation piece centered on the switch in the column. Explore, you'll get it.
4. Make a spacer to bring the wheel out 1/8" so the cover will clear the column pads and bolt it on!
Not hard at all. And its a huuuuuge difference both for looks and handling. It minimizes the perceived slop at the wheel.. I love it.
Last edited by eurotrash on 5-5-10 08:17; edited 2 times in total
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Date: 3-16-09 07:12
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: Big Bumper Nip/Tuck
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Went for it. Started at 8am and finished at 1pm. As usual, not as bad as it seems when studying up on the process. -amazingly simple really.
Basic tools.
Drill w/ 1/8 bit
Phillips screw driver
10mm socket and wrench
13 or 14 mm socket
22mm socket
Tin Snips
Piece of card board.
Five old body screws
FRONT:
Remove the battery to get to the left side shock bolt.
Disconnect the accordions at the bumper via 2 each 10mm bolts.
Remove 22mm shock bolts.
Pull bumper off.
Lay bumper on its bottom, punch drill bit through card board to prevent getting squirted in the face by pressurized goo. Drill shock tubes and compress. Remove the shocks from the bumper w/ 13 or 14mm socket. I can't recall which..
Remove the shock covers from the body and trim approx. 1.5" off of the front with tin snips, and notch out the center for clearing the head of the shock t- bumper bolt.
Slip compressed bumper shocks into place. Hold covers up to body/shocks and eyeball a cut around the mounting bolt heads.
Remove shocks.
Reinstall covers.
Reinstall shocks onto bumper.
Remount bumper and just flex the accordions out to get bumper in to align the 22mm bolt holes and install bolts.
Align bumper. Compress as needed. -make measurements, whatever.
Drill up into the shocks through both layers and drive in an old body screw. Tighten until the head twists off so the rubber sleeve can cover.
Cut accordion ends at the bumper in the first valley and reinstall onto bumper ends.
Eyeball and trim accordions in the first valley that overlaps the end cap.
Use a nice new tube of black silicon with new tip for control and gingerly fill the gaps in your cuts.
BACK:
Its the same basic process with the obvious deletions, and a few additions.
No need to remove the shocks.
Trim the points off of the rubber filler shelf.
If you have been holding out. I suggest you go for it. Nerd factor is reduced by 75% for free..
Much Better. These photos are pre-silicon so you know..
Still some heavy parts though. If you suffer at all from upper body atrophy, you will feel the days work. A great argument for the early rear bumper and front air dam move..
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Date: 3-20-09 05:04
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: First Good Bath
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Date: 3-29-09 08:22
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: Eibach Lowering Springs.
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Well, thanks to some wheelin' -N- dealin' with Brad T some Eibachs came in the mail this week and yesterday was "Stop, Drop, and Roll" day for myself, my friend Mike, and my son Henry.
Yeah.. He's 2.
A before picture, for reference..
Front before..
Rear before..
Fun 10mm wide angle shot.
Stock.
Ohhhh Yeahhh.
If you have replacement bolt in ball joints, this is the way to go.
3 Strut bearing bolts under the hood, the strut nut, 3 ball joint bolts, Steering linkage, 2 caliper bolts, and 1 bolt brake line support and its on the ground.
And a crappy 'after' picture from my cell this morning..Doesn't really do it justice... more later
In the back, I initially removed the bottom pad and used tubing, but I didn't like the look, too low compared tot he front.. So we popped the bottom pad back in. The front has very thin pads, and I wish I could have gotten 1/2 more drop there. But over all, its better than before!
Totally pleased with the results. Huge gains on the performance level so far, the firmer springs are a very nice addition.. I could go for a lower stance even yet. But it looks much more put together. IE sway bars next...
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Date: 3-30-09 01:20
From: manimal in Eugene, Oregon
Subject: lock
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what is the lock cylinder protruding below the drivers side rear running light locking?
Car looks good so far, I wish I could hammer stuff out that fast with mine. I've got such a back log of stuff to do 5spd, LSD, rear disc conversion, euro signals, pass side mirror, door panel backs, 635csi rear seat, spare gas tank to seal and install, defrost rear windshield, console to finish, all just sitting in the garage.
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Date: 3-30-09 05:39
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: Re: lock
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| manimal wrote: | what is the lock cylinder protruding below the drivers side rear running light locking?
Car looks good so far, I wish I could hammer stuff out that fast with mine. I've got such a back log of stuff to do 5spd, LSD, rear disc conversion, euro signals, pass side mirror, door panel backs, 635csi rear seat, spare gas tank to seal and install, defrost rear windshield, console to finish, all just sitting in the garage. |
Oh, I have a back log myself. Believe me.. But I like to start small to build momentum. I have that 5 speed waiting etc, etc. Just start small..
--That tumbler is from an old security system.
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Date: 4-23-09 06:16
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: RB/Yokahamas
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Thanks Karie!
Love this.
Now to cut the front springs a turn and take those back pads back out. And some lip rollin' too I fear.. _________________ 2002 Newbie -and dead serious about it.
The Deuce
R.G.B. Group!
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Date: 4-24-09 08:21
From: eurotrash in Cincinnati, Ohio
Subject: 320is Diffy
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Uht ohhhhhHH.. Dropped some LSD.
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