Step1; Open door and hood, remove moulding starting at rear. Your goal is to chip the paint as little as possible if you’re not repainting. This job is usually done in conjunction with repaint so you need to remember when prepping for paint to minimize paint thickness in these areas. Thick paint chips more easily. Sand the primer-filler till you see bare metal before application of final sealer and color.
Step2; To install all you need is a common welder’s clamp, a towel, and a little caution. No hammer, no hand strain. Adjust the clamp so that it's 1.5 times the width of the moulding. Hold the moulding against the drip rail with the horizontal and angled parts parallel. This step is to visualize where the center of the curve is. Start the install at the center of the curve and work outward in both directions. It will twist into position with the greatest of ease if the starting point is centered in the curve.
Step3; Be sure the hood is adjusted so the gap matches the trunk gap. If it's pushed back to match the fender to door gap, the new moulding will suffer, as will the hood paint.

Photos;
Pic 116; Welder’s clamp. This one is adjusted for display, it must be much looser in use so that it pushes in on the bottom corner of the moulding.
Pic 142; Correct hood gap, and damage done by too small of a gap.
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