Hi,

I do not think that you can use any of the roundies kidneys.

Check out this picture (taken of Heino Stolle's site link )


The left kidney is the earliest model and as far as I know it is to be used on the 1600-2.

The second kidneys from the left is for the chrome grilled 1602 and 1802.
The third from the left is for the chrome grilled 2002 (incl. TI and tii) and and the most right kidney is for the plastic grille models.

Regards,
Edwin

I would try a product called either 'goo-gone' or 'goof-off'. Both of these are available at hardware stores and most grocery stores and it works great at getting glue off of things....I've used it on dried glue before and took it right off.

I'm curious, how did you get those black slats off the grill without damaging the grill itself?
_________________
'72 2002Tii - Track Car
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WD40 dissolves most glue

(nt)
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Paul in Richmond
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having (tried) to do this,

heat helps.
It sofens the stuff, and preps it for chemical stripping.
Chemicals don't seem to make much of a dent on their own..
I had (some) luck with aircraft stripper,
and then decided that life was too short.

bah.

t

thanks for all the advice. the silicone sealer remover sounds the most promising....i've used wd40 and goo gone in the past, but this seriously old and dry stuff seems pretty ridiculous.

as for removing the slats, a few of em were already oretty loose, so i managed to gently work in a thin, screwdriver like tool i had (think mini pry bar), wedged it straight down, and was careful to apply pressure only to the black slat part. it bent pretty easily. i just did that all the way down, you can literally hear the adhesive POP as it breaks free. some of them came almost immediately off, others took a little massaging.

on the underside of each slat (on either end as well) there is also a little dimple /dent where you can also wedge the tool in to pry it away. the slats are pretty soft (softer than the actual grill slats beneath), so it comes off fairly easily. the first grill took me about 45 minutes, whereas the second one only took about 20 minutes as the glue had less hold, and i was a little more confortable with the process.

the trick now is to remove the nasty dried glue!

from the picts of the grills, it appears that any of the first 3 should physically fit. does anyone know if a '68 1600 should have the earliest grill shown on the far left?

thanks again!

alan

FYI my 1600 has a late kidney in it. and a middle/late grill, assuming it was a PO's repair from fender/grill damage. the kidney is a bit loose from top to bottom, but you cant see the space it seems to float in. I found this thread in search of a way to remove the dried gunk myself, having pulled the slats, and finding that nothing seems to take it off. not goo gone, not brake cleaner, chemtool- B12 on a Q-tip (I was afraid of striping the clear coat in the front)seems to almost work but evaporates way to quickly to get anything done. Maybe I'll just bathe the whole thing and wind up re-polishing and clear coating it. If I do find something before then, I'll be sure to repost it here for the rest of you.


-update- NOTHING seems to take effect with removing the dried up glue! I found a simple solution though, I put mylar trim tape over my slats & just put them back on & re-crimped the indents with some electrical tape wrapped needle nose pliars (for scratch prevention) with a bb in the tape on one side for the indenting. the "chrome" tape is pretty cheap, and is a perfect match to the polished aluminum on the grill. looks nice. I'd recomend just doing the tape rather than removing the slats and dealing with the glue. if the tape fades in 10 years, redo it. The tape is also great for re "chroming" the silver strip on the inner door panels too, that was tape to start with anyways. also good for... behind your light reflectors. I did the inside of the gauge lighting areas and the heater vent lights & it made everything SO much brighter, I just might use it on my external lights too.
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Tim. 2 daily drivers
His: 68' 1602-
Hers: 76' 2002 auto-