I thought that as long as you had matching transmition and rear end, any speedo would work. Am I not right?

John
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"Chicken make no good house pet!"

"Less brake, more accelerator"
#1665778

BLUNT wrote:

i want to use a late cluster for the 3.91 speedo but dont want the wood.

Ohhh, yes. Someone please clarify if this is true. This would be the easiest route for me to go too. thanks
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Ray
73 Chamonix-S14 powered

I'm sure you can just swap the face housing. I'm not sure the faces of the gauges are the same.

John
_________________
"Chicken make no good house pet!"

"Less brake, more accelerator"
#1665778

the final drives (notice I didn't say rear ends) that they're meant to go with. There's a stamping on the back of the speedo unit (W=X.XX) that tells you which is which. Thus 1600s with a 4.11 final drive have a different speedo unit from most 2002s (3.64) which in turn are different from a 76 USA '02 which has a 3.90 final drive. A much rarer unit is an early tii which had a 3.45 final drive. Turbos were 3.36.

Someone on the board will know the ratio numbers. The 3.64 speedo is marked W=1.27 I think...

mike
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'69 Nevada sunroof--"Wolfgang"--bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-- "Ludwig"--mine since '78
'87 eta E30 coupe--"Johannes"
+ Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette)...
and Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

i removed the plastic overlay and the base cluster is the same less the plastic rings from the older style. im just going to use the late model speedo cluster and swap face plates. it looks simple enough. im scrapping the carbon fiber idea as i cant get the brake light thingy out without damaging it. has anyone ever zero'd out a speedo? it cant be that hard. i have a few to play with. maybe ill tear one down and try it.

The tachometer circuit is also better in the 75-76 clusters. the circuit is totaly different and uses better components.


Pat Allen

you're gonna set the speedo so it reads accurately at any given speed) is to get the needle off it's shaft without damage. If you can do that, the quick and dirty way to correct the speedo reading is to

1. Note how high (or low) the speedo reads now.

2. VERY carefully pull up on the speedo needle so it clears the 0 mph stop peg and let it come to rest. Note that point with a light pencil mark, piece of tape etc.

3. Even MORE carefully remove the needle from its shaft, and reposition it at a point X mph higher or lower then where it came to rest in step 2-- i.e. where you want it to read.

4. Press needle back on its shaft, then carefully pull up the needle so it clears the stop peg and is now resting against the peg as it originally did.

Note that if you're running a 3.90 rear end and a 3.64 speedo, this'll mostly correct the speedometer error, but won't do a thing for the odometer reading.

JUST BE CAREFUL REMOVING THE NEEDLE!!! That's the hardest part

mike
_________________
'69 Nevada sunroof--"Wolfgang"--bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-- "Ludwig"--mine since '78
'87 eta E30 coupe--"Johannes"
+ Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette)...
and Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

To zero an odo, pull the speedo, there are several black plastic geared number wheels with a grey diecast one to the left, with a tooth pick or drill bit (blunt end) push out the shaft supporting the numbers from left to right (to disengage the grey wheel) spin the numbers around to 00000 push the shaft back in ( right to lrft pushing the tooth pic/drill bit out). Job done. Good luck, remember it is, in theory, illegal to zero an odo, but you have been warned. Beaner7102
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1971 - 2002 RHD VIN 1653940. Agave (stock with Pertronix & 32/36 Weber) - "Cactus"
1972 - 1602 RHD VIN 1554408. Fjord (with 2L motor, Weber 40/40 and 5speed - LSD to come) - "Bluey"