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Date: 12-5-05 03:07
From: f1reverb
Subject: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .
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My buddy's the original owner on his essentially mint '74 MGB with 103k miles on it. He didn't drive it much the last few years and it sat in his garage, but he maintained it. He thought he needed new carbs, so he had it flatbedded to Frank Monise in Pasadena, CA, to change fluids, put new carbs on and get it ready to drive around again. He went by when Frank said the car was ready. Mitch picks it up and gets about 1/2 mile away and he gets his recurring problem that he thought the carbs would heal. When the MGB gets warm he looses power and eventually will only idle. Now Frank just told him that a valve job will cure it (why didn't he mention that in the beginning as Mitch told him the problem). Mitch spent 900 on the carbs and a total of 2400 with all the little things he had the guy do.
His problem doesn't sound like valves to me, as Frank didn't even do a compression check, and I'd do one cold and warm to see if there is a difference. Mitch describes the problem as similar to vapor lock. Something's screwy, but it ain't the valves in my opinion. No smoking of any sort, no missing, and it runs normally to a certain point when warm. No rough idle either. Any ideas? I was wondering if maybe the intake manifold might be warped and leaks when warm. Maybe the gas tank or venting, although Frank supposedly cleaned and sealed the tank.
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Date: 12-5-05 04:23
From: Radar
Subject: Dont laugh but.....
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I would bet on a fuel pump. If its an original????? The number of times the fuel pump slowed to a drizzle on the many british cars I ownjed. Is that an oil leak I smell?????? Good Luck
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Date: 12-5-05 05:44
From: SteveJ in Dublin, CA
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .
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"'74 MGB help with problem diagnosis"
The problem is in the first two words...'74 and MGB. ;^)
I would suspect fuel first, then ignition.
As things get warm, fuel can vapour lock, and ignition components could open circuit. I mean, after all, they are Lucas electrics, right?
Any motor is going to need the basics: Fuel, air, spark, compression.
Even with low or no compression in one or more cylinders, the thing should still run, albiet poorly. Test stuff cold, then check it again as it gets warm and see where the change is.
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Date: 12-6-05 05:47
From: Brandon in Western Massachusetts
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .
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It all comes down to the word LUCAS...I'm sure that is contributing to his problems in some way or another..... _________________ Jeremy
'72 2002Tii - Track Car
Need 02 parts? Check out my eBay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/Davenport-Motorsports
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Date: 12-8-05 07:51
From: Guest
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .
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I changed my SUs to a 32/36 weber in my 74 MGB. Cured the problem.
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Date: 1-12-06 10:42
From: Harv in Willoughby Oh.
Subject: Re: Why should...
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I agree. I never got a webber 32/36 to work anywhere as god as a set of SUs. They are the most under appreciated card in my opinion. As you said it's the throttle shafts that wear.
Nothing like a carb that adjusts for altitude by just the simple way it works. I have a single HIF44 (modern HS6) on my 1301 MG Midget and it has been by far the best performance thing I ever did to that motor.
All Hail the mighty SU!
John _________________ I suggest you sit down and dedicate a couple of hours to this thread. OOPS! NEW LINK! TRY IT NOW
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2224141&page=1
#1665778
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