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Thread Topic: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . . Threaded

   
Date: 12-5-05 03:07
From: f1reverb View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .

My buddy's the original owner on his essentially mint '74 MGB with 103k miles on it. He didn't drive it much the last few years and it sat in his garage, but he maintained it. He thought he needed new carbs, so he had it flatbedded to Frank Monise in Pasadena, CA, to change fluids, put new carbs on and get it ready to drive around again. He went by when Frank said the car was ready. Mitch picks it up and gets about 1/2 mile away and he gets his recurring problem that he thought the carbs would heal. When the MGB gets warm he looses power and eventually will only idle. Now Frank just told him that a valve job will cure it (why didn't he mention that in the beginning as Mitch told him the problem). Mitch spent 900 on the carbs and a total of 2400 with all the little things he had the guy do.

His problem doesn't sound like valves to me, as Frank didn't even do a compression check, and I'd do one cold and warm to see if there is a difference. Mitch describes the problem as similar to vapor lock. Something's screwy, but it ain't the valves in my opinion. No smoking of any sort, no missing, and it runs normally to a certain point when warm. No rough idle either. Any ideas? I was wondering if maybe the intake manifold might be warped and leaks when warm. Maybe the gas tank or venting, although Frank supposedly cleaned and sealed the tank.



Date: 12-5-05 04:23
From: Radar
Subject: Dont laugh but.....

I would bet on a fuel pump. If its an original????? The number of times the fuel pump slowed to a drizzle on the many british cars I ownjed. Is that an oil leak I smell?????? Good Luck



Date: 12-5-05 05:44
From: SteveJ in Dublin, CA View user's profile
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .

"'74 MGB help with problem diagnosis"
The problem is in the first two words...'74 and MGB. ;^)

I would suspect fuel first, then ignition.

As things get warm, fuel can vapour lock, and ignition components could open circuit. I mean, after all, they are Lucas electrics, right?

Any motor is going to need the basics: Fuel, air, spark, compression.
Even with low or no compression in one or more cylinders, the thing should still run, albiet poorly. Test stuff cold, then check it again as it gets warm and see where the change is.



Date: 12-5-05 06:32
From: tkent02 in Littleton, CO View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: His problem is obvious....

He needs a new mechanic. Anyone who would sell him new carbs and then a valve job without troubleshooting anything is a crook.
_________________
Tom
Something always leaks.



Date: 12-5-05 07:41
From: dang in Sacramento, CA View user's profile
Subject: Re: His problem is obvious....

tkent02 wrote:
He needs a new mechanic. Anyone who would sell him new carbs and then a valve job without troubleshooting anything is a crook.


Yes, this is the first thing you need to tell him. Don't ever go back to that "mechanic" again.

I would suggest running the car/engine until the problem occurs, then check fuel pressure at the carbs. My guess is fuel related before anything else (probably the pump, as already mentioned). If a vacuum leak was appearing after it got warm the engine wouldn't run well at all. The only thing that could be happening with the intake system is for the air flow to be getting restricted, but it would typically be restricted all the time, regardless of temp.



Date: 12-5-05 07:44
From: 2002tii72 in Bedford, TX View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: Re: His problem is obvious....

tkent02 wrote:
He needs a new mechanic. Anyone who would sell him new carbs and then a valve job without troubleshooting anything is a crook.


I agree completely. The guy working on the car is just throwing parts and labor at the car without finding the cause.

I also concur on the fuel pump. Tell him to order one of the modern conversion solid state SU fuel pumps that Moss Motors sells and his problem should go away.



Date: 12-6-05 02:34
From: f1reverb View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: An Austin Healey buddy of mine thinks . . .

the SU carb plungers are off-center and not going into the jet properly. He said even new ones need to be adjusted. Sound like a possible cause? Thanks for the info, and I hope I can convince Mitch to listen to me and you and not the mechanic.



Date: 12-6-05 05:47
From: Brandon in Western Massachusetts View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .

It all comes down to the word LUCAS...I'm sure that is contributing to his problems in some way or another.....
_________________
Jeremy
'72 2002Tii - Track Car

Need 02 parts? Check out my eBay store:
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Date: 12-6-05 06:50
From: Marty in Washington State View user's profile
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .

you might try taking the gas cap off next time this happens the vent might be pluged and at some point the vacuum overcomes the fuel pump.



Date: 12-6-05 12:09
From: Delia in "Don't call it 'Frisco'" View user's profile
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .

I had a similar problem with a '74 MGB a few years ago.

The car sat for a number of years (like, about 7) in a field near Atlanta. I spent a few days tinkering with it to get it running. It ran, idled and did everything normally...that is... until I put it down on the ground and drove a hundred yards or so. Then it fuel starved and I had to wait a half hour before I could start it again...the results...same problem.

I dropped the fuel tank, and saw all kinds of rusty crud in the bottom of the tank. The little "sock" on the fuel pickup was completely clogged with rust.

In the end, I replaced the fuel tank, the pickup "sock" and the fuel gauge sending unit...after I replaced the rusted-out trunk floor.

Delia



Date: 12-8-05 07:51
From: Guest
Subject: Re: '74 MGB help with problem diagnosis . . .

I changed my SUs to a 32/36 weber in my 74 MGB. Cured the problem.



Date: 12-12-05 07:15
From: Delia in "Don't call it 'Frisco'" View user's profile
Subject: Why should...

...he buy more carbs (ok, just 'one') after spending so much on a set of rebuilts????

SUs aren't that hard to figure out. And, usually it's just the throttle shafts that wear, and need refitting...

It's something else, Guest.


Delia



Date: 1-12-06 10:42
From: Harv in Willoughby Oh. View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: Re: Why should...

I agree. I never got a webber 32/36 to work anywhere as god as a set of SUs. They are the most under appreciated card in my opinion. As you said it's the throttle shafts that wear.
Nothing like a carb that adjusts for altitude by just the simple way it works. I have a single HIF44 (modern HS6) on my 1301 MG Midget and it has been by far the best performance thing I ever did to that motor.

All Hail the mighty SU!

John
_________________
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