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Thread Topic: What are the dimensions of the cylinder head studs? Threaded

   
Date: 10-14-05 01:20
From: steve howe
Subject: What are the dimensions of the cylinder head studs?

I was able to cut the nuts with my dremmel and avoid pulling the head. Going to need to replace some studs though and would appreciate knowing the size..thanks



Date: 10-14-05 05:14
From: Tom Winston
Subject: any good parts store will have them. just metric 10mm studs or go to

realoem.com and get the specs!



Date: 10-14-05 05:41
From: Justin in C'ville
Subject: Pretty sure the exhaust studs are 8mm, the head studs

on the other hand should NOT be purchased from any hardware store, to my knowledge ARP is the only supplier for our engines and they can be purchased via summit racing.

a tip on the exhuast studs, your dealer probably has the best price on those.



Date: 10-14-05 05:47
From: Tom Winston
Subject: READ THE FAQ ON HOW TO INSTALL MANIFOLD STUDS! It's no joke... do it

or your manifolds will loosten over time & no one needs that!



Date: 10-14-05 05:51
From: Tom Winston
Subject: REALLY SURE Justin's right - 8mm is correct - Sorry (nt)

(nt)



Date: 10-14-05 06:52
From: matt
Subject: another question on this

I think I have the backing out issue...lets say I hope that is what it is, allowing some oil to seap out around a coupple of the header bolts. I've read the FAQ, but do I just call the dealer and tell them I need the studs for my make model car and they will provide the correct ones? Will those include the nut to tighten the header on? What if you need to remove the headers again, with this loctite it sounds like they are on for good.



Date: 10-14-05 07:23
From: mike
Subject: Dealer hs the studs--all are the same length. I bought mine from

Autohaus Arizona...but your local dealer is most likely closer and not much more expensive. Ya gotta buy the nuts separately--be sure and get the copper plated manifold nuts. Just follow thru with the thorough cleaning before Loctiting...

mike



Date: 10-14-05 07:43
From: Tom Winston
Subject: Using the correct type of loctite is like using the proper knot...

A good knot not only is functional, strong and correct for the application, but it can be untied just as easily as it was tied. (learned that from a boy scout)

Using the CORRECT loctite on intake and exhaust stud bolts will not only keep them in where you want them but it will allow you to remove them easily when you need to. I'd STRONGLY reccomend using the copper nuts as they are much better than steel because of the heat. If you install & torque the proper fastners correctly you SHOULD never have a problem.

Try cleaning out the stud holes with a tap & some brake parts cleaner before you apply the loctite. it will bond & adhere better. It's not the best for the oil but if you run the engine for a little bit & then change it right away you won't really hurt anything.



Date: 10-14-05 08:30
From: John McA
Subject: Don't forget the saturn option - torx head stud worked really well

Of course the purists may wince. I don't recall the size but the length
was a little long at 45mm. I cut them down a bit for my 1600.
Along with the 12mm copper locknuts, they have required no
additional tightening over many years of use.

You can get them from the Saturn dealer parts counter..

good luck
John McA



Date: 10-14-05 08:30
From: John McA
Subject: Don't forget the saturn option - torx head stud worked really well

Of course the purists may wince. I don't recall the size but the length
was a little long at 45mm. I cut them down a bit for my 1600.
Along with the 12mm copper locknuts, they have required no
additional tightening over many years of use.

You can get them from the Saturn dealer parts counter..

good luck
John McA



Date: 10-14-05 01:00
From: oh2fly
Subject: Very important, please read this

2002 heads do not have a blind ho9le for the exhaust studs. That means that if you use the wrong stud or one too long, you can screw it right into the valve springs on the other side. I am not kidding. Take off your valve cover and look for yourselves. Here is the right part # for exhaust studs. #07 11 9 908 317. They have a shoulder with no threads.Total length is 44.50 mm. You install the shorter threaded end with blue loctite in a CLEAN hole and you are good to go. One other thing about too long studs is the hassle of getting the nuts started with cast manifolds=no room. Do it right!



Date: 10-15-05 06:16
From: vintage_car in Nashville, TN View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: Re: Very important, please read this

Thanks oh2fly, that part number is for all studs right?

oh2fly wrote:
2002 heads do not have a blind ho9le for the exhaust studs. That means that if you use the wrong stud or one too long, you can screw it right into the valve springs on the other side. I am not kidding. Take off your valve cover and look for yourselves. Here is the right part # for exhaust studs. #07 11 9 908 317. They have a shoulder with no threads.Total length is 44.50 mm. You install the shorter threaded end with blue loctite in a CLEAN hole and you are good to go. One other thing about too long studs is the hassle of getting the nuts started with cast manifolds=no room. Do it right!




Date: 10-15-05 12:04
From: oh2fly in Eugene, Oregon View user's profile
Subject: Re: Very important, please read this

Yes, all the exhaust studs are the same. Intakes are different.



Date: 10-15-05 03:03
From: steve
Subject: Thanks everyone, job is done and done right!

You guys are great, got the old header off, was able to salvage all the old studs. Happened to have some new copper nuts laying around. Read the article, cleaned the holes, loctited the threads and slapped it back together. Does seem to have a slight increase in HP over the emission style header...thanks again....steve howe



Date: 11-8-05 09:34
From: vintage_car in Nashville, TN View user's profile Send e-mail
Subject: bringing thread back from the dead...

what size copper nut do you need to fit the stud?



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