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Date: 8-15-08 09:26
From: instructorbill  
Subject: the m20s, removable nose, rack steering and pedal box blog  
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Okay fine, I'm jumping in-- I was planning on doing the blog thing a little sooner, but I wasn't sure of the direction that the swap was going to take.
In it's most current state. It'll be another m20. The nose needed to be replaced, so it is getting a customized-removable nose.
The nose is off
The brake booster and pedal box have been axed (permanantly, well maybe, we'll see-- I might do master on box)
The fresh air box has been removed (permanantly)
Heater box removed (permanantly)
Steering box removed (permanantly)
The Customized e21 rack is mostly installed. Those who want to do one-- go for it if you have any fabrication skills at all, it's a snap. You will need the e21 rack complete, and the steering column (column only).
here's some help for the squeemish (first with the steering column)
I'm going boosterless, so I have no idea if my recipe will work for your car.
remove the 02 steering column and strip down to tube.
remove steering box, tierods, idler arm, and drag link
place 02 steering clolumn beside the 320i rack, transfer holes for steering lock onto e21 rack
Remove both steering shafts from the columns and place them side by side... you will notice that the steering lock channels are located differently.
Transfer the location of the 02 rack to the e21 rack. With a dremmel, sawzall, or hacksaw cut the weld on the steering lock channel on the e21 rack. once the channel is free grind the weld flush with the steering shaft.
remove the channel from the shaft, flop 180 degrees and re-insert. Line the channel up with the marks transferred from the 02 shaft. The channel ended up being at 5-6 inches on mine with the splines perfectly matched.
Re weld channel.
Further down the shaft cut a two and five eighths inch section out of the steering shaft. get a thickwall tube to slide over the shaft-- I went with about a six inch piece with a continuous channel down it's length
Reweld, penetration is key. Tack first, check for runout and then weld. Welds must be good, or pay for a good weldor to do it for you, you wouldn't want this bugger coming free
reweld the ends and the length of the shaft splice.
Shorten the steering column tube from the bottom end 2 5/8 inches and de-burr
Remove the extra piece from the bottom bracket on the e21 colunm where the turn signal and dimmer mount-- it gets in the way.
Reassemble the steering column and install
I have not yet worked out the horn contact-- shouldn't put up much of a fight.
Let me know if you guys want more.
_________________
Make it different... or just do it differently
Bill in Petaluma, CA
1969 1600 The current distraction
1970 2002 RIP -- crashed then quartered
1971 2002 M20/02 RIP -- nothing but pieces now
1972 2002 gone, but not missed POS
Last edited by instructorbill on 8-17-08 02:21; edited 1 time in total
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Date: 8-15-08 10:31
From: dhs_
Subject: Re: the m20s, removeable nose, rack steering and race brake blog
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great info Bill. Thanks. Sounds easier than what I had been thinking about doing to use the 2002 steering shaft/column.
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Date: 8-15-08 05:09
From: instructorbill
Subject: steering rack part 2
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with the column assembled and installed-- a few quick measurements
the steering lock housing is 3 1/8 inches from the back of the signal/dimmer bracket
in the engine compartment... the steering column tube/bearing sticks out the 02 firewall bracket about 1/2 inch
Time to make a rack bracket
I took a sheet of metal 10guage slightly larger in width than the bracket on the rack itself and about 12 inches deep and riveted (just temporarily) to the underside of the subframe.
I then traced the front of the subframe onto the sheet and placed the rack onto the back of the sheet. Bailing wire helps with mock-up
spacing for me was 7 1/8 from rack body to frame rail on both sides and two inches from rear of subframe to rack bracket (bent down tab.)
Trace the rack bracket onto the sheet. Drill two subframe bracket holes through the existing rack bracket holes( i did two pilot holes, and drilled the larger ones after removing it)
Drill out rivets and cut out the bottom plate. I added an additional inch to the traced profile for bolt holes before cutting. Massaged with a bench grinder, deburred and re-riveted back to the subframe already cleaned and prepped for welding.
Weld bottom plate to subframe accross leading edge, tack rear if you'd like, bolt or whatever.
Make two top brackets or one large one to go between the subframe and the rack bolts that go through the rack bracket. Prep top of subframe for welds install, c clamp down and weld
Clean, prime and paint welds/brackets
The dreaded steering linkage-- the only tough, time consuming task.
with the rack installed, and the steering column in, guestimate the total length... okay don't guestimate (mine is 10.25 inches from the flex coupler to the bottom crotch of the U joint before it makes a turn.
I cut the steering coupler in half and spliced in some steering column remnants and sleeved it like the shaft in the first entry in the blog. DONT WELD YET.
Install it, make sure everything is cool, everything bolts up, no binding no issues at all Tack weld, check for runout-- correct if necessary and then weld it all up.
With any luck, I'll get some information about how much to shorten the steering arms on the bottom of the struts and I'll modify those and complete the install tomorrow-- then I suppose I can take a wag at setting the toe.
EDIT the only information I can find on the steering arm length is 130mm
DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THIS IS FROM BALL JOINT HOLE CENTERLINE TO TIE ROD END CENTERLINE? _________________ Make it different... or just do it differently
Bill in Petaluma, CA
1969 1600 The current distraction
1970 2002 RIP -- crashed then quartered
1971 2002 M20/02 RIP -- nothing but pieces now
1972 2002 gone, but not missed POS
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Last edited by instructorbill on 9-5-08 10:08; edited 1 time in total
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Date: 8-30-08 07:33
From: tjones02 in Vacaville, CA
Subject: Re: transmission SCORE! (nt)
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Sorry I missed ya' at PnP Winsor... I was there until about 2:30... Saw the nice 318is w/ 157K on it and thought about trying to make some money on the Motor but was to lazy to do it.... Thanks for makin' it easier since the tranny is out now ;b.... Naw, I' have to much on my pallet as it is.
I did score a set of '94 540i calipers to do a big brake thingy on my 5spd 528e though for $12.98 ea.... and got the center caps off that 318is for $1.24 ea.
Still looking for another E34 or E32 for one more front caliper... _________________ Tom Jones
BMWCCA Life 49246
Vacaville CA
a Wrench @ http://www.ipb-autosport.com/
& http://www.caseymotorsports.com
67 1600-2 Granada
+ 3 more 1600-2's
67 1800A stored
76 2002 F/S soon
86 528e 5sp Mine 372k
86 528eA Wife's
90 CRX HF 50mpg!
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Date: 9-5-08 10:04
From: instructorbill
Subject: supercharger is installed, tensioner rocks!
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took several days of fabrication but it's finally done.
I hope this doesn't throw belts, but I've seen worse work hold up under punishment
I've got the alternator moved to the passenger side running on a v-belt and the supercharger is using a 5 rib belt, an M50 crank pulley, and modified M50 idler pulley adapted to a Subaru EJ25 Alternator/Airconditioner tensioner.
Custom block/supercharger face mount
Looks stock. _________________ Make it different... or just do it differently
Bill in Petaluma, CA
1969 1600 The current distraction
1970 2002 RIP -- crashed then quartered
1971 2002 M20/02 RIP -- nothing but pieces now
1972 2002 gone, but not missed POS
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| here's the supercharger mounted with tensioner |
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Date: 9-6-08 08:06
From: evanc in Augsburg, Germany
Subject: Re: Up next...
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Bill!
How goes it? Well, from the looks of it you are making some awesome progress. The bracket for the super charger looks good. How'd ya come up with the design for that? Dude, seriously you never cease to amaze me with your engineering talents.
Id love to see some more photos if you have any. So last week I was at the bar and met some of my new friends and it turns out that one of the guys brother is restoring 3 2002s. Apparently his shop is about 10km from the center of town. I'll post some photos after I go over to see his shop.
Corb will be super interested to see what you are doing. He supposedly will have his FD finished by the 27th of September for 7 Stock in Orange County. Maybe you can figure a way to put an LS7 motor in an 02.
I'll have a bier for ya.
Keep the posts coming.
| instructorbill wrote: | I'm really attacking this project on two fronts at the moment
Powerplant:
Install 42lb injectors, reinstall fuel rail, mount intercooler, mount bypass valve (buy it first) and E36 throttle body and Idle air control valve.
Engine Compartment:
Brake pedal assembly/pedal box-- Plan is to remote the clutch master up and back 2 inches and to mount two brake masters to the pedal box (I think they'll be tilton units-- but I'm not sure of the sizes yet) Additionally, I need to work out the adaptation of the bubble flares to AN3.
MUST PAINT ENGINE COMPARTMENT NEXT |
_________________ Evan Chong
70/M20 02 (Wrecked)
72tii - For Sale - SOLD
Lemons 76 02 Race Car - 1/7th Owner
Subaru WRX Wagon - For Sale!
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Date: 9-12-08 11:35
From: instructorbill
Subject: Rear Disk Brake Plates
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I used 1984 scirocco front disks, 93 Audi A4 rear calipers, a stock 02 hard line like you'd use on a front brake caliper to strut tube a single bubble to bubble flare coupler and a custom fabbed bracket
Not sure about how I'll do the ebrake cable--, I'll probably make a new stationary bracket for the sleeve and use the stock 02 end. _________________ Make it different... or just do it differently
Bill in Petaluma, CA
1969 1600 The current distraction
1970 2002 RIP -- crashed then quartered
1971 2002 M20/02 RIP -- nothing but pieces now
1972 2002 gone, but not missed POS
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| you too can make your own! |
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| cutting 3/8 aluminum with an old assed mitre saw-- carbide works fine |
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Date: 9-15-08 03:28
From: evanc in Augsburg, Germany
Subject: Re: Rear Disk Brake Plates
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Bill,
Nice work and looks great too. I think that everyone will agree, but dude thanks for documenting this stuff. I know I wont be back for at least a year, but Im already excited to start rebuilding at some point. Havent made any headway with the insurance, but that will eventually happen.
Are you going to have to run a proportioning value for the brakes? I think I remember some folks having one inside the car. Actually I think Moe has it in his.
How about the dif? I remember talking to someone about how someone had made a custom rear sub frame to take an e30 diff. That would be perfect for all that new power you'll have eh.?
Keep up with all the photos!
Evan
| instructorbill wrote: | I used 1984 scirocco front disks, 93 Audi A4 rear calipers, a stock 02 hard line like you'd use on a front brake caliper to strut tube a single bubble to bubble flare coupler and a custom fabbed bracket
Not sure about how I'll do the ebrake cable--, I'll probably make a new stationary bracket for the sleeve and use the stock 02 end. |
_________________ Evan Chong
70/M20 02 (Wrecked)
72tii - For Sale - SOLD
Lemons 76 02 Race Car - 1/7th Owner
Subaru WRX Wagon - For Sale!
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Date: 9-15-08 11:54
From: !nstructorbill
Subject: proportioning valve?
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| evanc wrote: | Bill,
Nice work and looks great too. I think that everyone will agree, but dude thanks for documenting this stuff. I know I wont be back for at least a year, but Im already excited to start rebuilding at some point. Havent made any headway with the insurance, but that will eventually happen.
Are you going to have to run a proportioning value for the brakes? I think I remember some folks having one inside the car. Actually I think Moe has it in his.
How about the dif? I remember talking to someone about how someone had made a custom rear sub frame to take an e30 diff. That would be perfect for all that new power you'll have eh.?
Keep up with all the photos!
Evan
| instructorbill wrote: | I used 1984 scirocco front disks, 93 Audi A4 rear calipers, a stock 02 hard line like you'd use on a front brake caliper to strut tube a single bubble to bubble flare coupler and a custom fabbed bracket
Not sure about how I'll do the ebrake cable--, I'll probably make a new stationary bracket for the sleeve and use the stock 02 end. |
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I'm really not sure if I'll have to do the proportioning valve. I won't need to change the bias adjustment on the fly, so the bias rod between the master cylinders ought to take care of the fine tuning anyhow.
As for the e30 rear end, we'll see how long I can make an e21 LSD last. After I blow it up, I'll work on a fix-- so to speak. Was it the e30 subframe modified to fit the 02 or the 02subframe modified for the E30 LSD... I'll have to search for that one.
The ebrake cable was quite simple really, some 3/8id and nut all-thread lamp parts and a 3.25 inch length of 1/2 conduit did the trick. Threaded end goes through the VW/Audi bracket hole, conduit slides over that, whole cable assembly is threaded through. All slack is removed at the handbrake lever and I'm good to go on the ebrake. Ya gotta love the self adjusting rear brake.
I've discovered my pictures were too small. I'll change it up in the future.
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Date: 9-15-08 05:33
From: tjones02 in Vacaville, CA
Subject: Re: E30 Diff
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Haner used to modify '02 rear subframes for E30 diffs. But I think he wanted $750 to 1K for them. I have also heard of people mounting E30 subframes into '02s. This one is what you'll find info on in searching the FAQ.
HTH _________________ Tom Jones
BMWCCA Life 49246
Vacaville CA
a Wrench @ http://www.ipb-autosport.com/
& http://www.caseymotorsports.com
67 1600-2 Granada
+ 3 more 1600-2's
67 1800A stored
76 2002 F/S soon
86 528e 5sp Mine 372k
86 528eA Wife's
90 CRX HF 50mpg!
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