c1cc wrote:

I bet if you looked some more you could find one with minimal rust, runs, but pay twice as much and still come out ahead. My 2 cents.

Agree.....Run away from it, you can do better.
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Steve

1974 Inka 1802 Touring, New Daily Driver
1976 Inka 2002 Original Owner
My Roundies are bigger than yours

Dfor:

I'm a newbie as well, so I will leave technical information/advice to the more experienced brethren/sisteren on the FAQ.

What I can tell you is this: I have recently purchased a pair of 2002's in the $1000-$2500 price range ($ each, from different sellers).

One car is a midwestern rust bucket--- but it has new brakes and tires, a weber carb, and it starts every time (even in winter, even being outside in the rain for a week). It's in good mechanical condition, but cosmetically and structurally in one of its last seasons on the road due to rust.

The other is a California car that is virtually free of rust, with some minor body damage and original paint with some overspray. It's got just about all the pieces, including two engine blocks and other extras. It does not run (no engine in the car) and will need some time to get it on the road.

What strikes me about your potential purchase is that it fails on two counts: It's rusty and it doesn't run. If it was one or the other, the price would seem better to me. That said, they are a lot of fun and if you have the time/resources it could be a great project.

I'd recommend posting more precise information on the vehicle-- multiple paint jobs? condition of rockers? floor pans? frame rails? interior? etc.

Have fun.

jb

I'm with Steve and c1cc on this; spend a little more in the beginning, come out ahead in the end. Better to buy a car for $5000 that runs well and is tight than spending $1000 on a rust bucket that doesn't run; chances are you'll put in a lot more money just getting this up to par with a slightly expensive car. RUN!

$.02!
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Sean
'76 Jadegrun '02

Daily driver and ONLY vehicle! It must be love...

Hmm thanks everyone for your suggestions, I'll stay away from it for now unless he sells for ultra cheap.

Definitely makes more sense to buy something for a bit more but in way better condition.
Thanks again, I'll be seeing you guys here more often hopefully!

A not so great price on a 2002 that does not run and is rusty!!!???

I think we have been over that one a few times.

Pay 3 times as much for a much better value.
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75 2002

Sounds like a $500 (maybe) parts car IMHO...

I agree, pass. I bought mine almost literally rust free with great paint and a motor burning oil for $2800 knowing that I was going to put in a motor it was a perfect deal.
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DforDendetta wrote:

Hmm thanks everyone for your suggestions, I'll stay away from it for now unless he sells for ultra cheap. Definitely makes more sense to buy something for a bit more but in way better condition. Thanks again, I'll be seeing you guys here more often hopefully!

Good man.

I've seen a bunch of cars like the one that you're describing, and they were all worth $300 maximum.

Keep an eye on Craigslist a eBay. You should plan on spending at least $4K on a running car and hold $1K in reserve for minor repairs when it's in your driveway. Check out the Buyer's Guide here:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/80/32/
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ClayW
1976 Fjord 2002 Sunroof

Project Blog

"Finish the thing, do it right the first time and drive the son of a bitch!"
-Gray Baskerville on hot rod advice

Key rust spots on an '02 are rear wheel arches (inside the trunk), inner rocker panels and floorpans/front frame rail extensions. Other rust can be expensive to repair but isn't necessarily structural.

A bellhousing lurking in the trunk is puzzling as 2002 trannys don't have separate bellhousings; they're part of the main transmission case. Of course if there's just a hole in the tranny tunnel inside the car where the shift lever should be, then there's no tranny.

Depending on what you want, your skill level and your patience to take on a project that might take awhile, I'd inspect VERY carefully for rust in strategic (and cosmetic) spots--make a list--insist that the owner get it to start and run for you (at least--driveable would be better) and see what is and isn't working (wipers, heater, instruments, suspension/steering etc).

If the seller can do this, it actually runs (and stops!) and the body isn't hatefully rusty, then you might have a project car--but don't pay the asking price--make an offer.

IMHO it's better to start with a running car that needs cosmetics (not serious, structural rust repair) vs the other way 'round. A runner you can drive while you make it look pretty. A non runner can exhaust your patience before you get it running, and make you give up the project.

Remember, all you west coasters and desert dwellers, those of us in the rust belt don't have nearly the selection that y'all do...and may not have the wherewithall to import a rust-free CA car...

cheers and good luck; don't get buck fever and buy the first '02 you look at...

mike
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'69 Nevada sunroof--"Wolfgang"
'73 Sahara sunroof-- "Ludwig"
'87 eta E30 coupe--"Johannes"
+ Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette)...
and Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

if you can turn up a very solid, complete car with very good to excellent cosmetics that doesn't run for one reason or another (long term storage, engine/clutch/trans problem, etc), you could also have an acceptable car to start off a project with.

In many cases, mechanical work is easier and cheaper to get done than extensive cosmetic work, and can usually be completed much more quickly - rust repair is usually hideously expensive, a decent repaint (with NO body work or rust repair) will generally start somewhere well north of $2000, and replacement trim and plating work isn't cheap either.

One other thought - depending on how much time you have, your "adventure quotent" and whether or not you have a mechanically competent co-adventurer available, you might want to consider looking for a western/southwestern car that can be "vetted" by a reliable shop in the seller's area, fly out and drive it home. Especially if this is your first foray into the world of "collector cars", it's usually best to start out with the best car you can afford - you'll almost always wind up spending less $$ in the long run.

It's pretty short notice, but it might be worth it for you to try to make it to Vintage at the Vinyards (http://www.vintageatthevineyards.zoomshare.com/) on May 25th - I'm on the the other end of the country (northern CA) so I've never been, but I understand that there's a pretty good sized contingent of '02 folks that attend - would give you a good opportunity to talk '02's with some knowledgable folks, and might give you some leads on solid cars not too far away from you.
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Barry Allen
'69 Sunroof
'82 E21 (daily driver)
'82 633CSi (wife's driver)
'65 El Camino (yard & parts hauler)

I've said it before but....I've fallen time and time again for the cheaper car with a little rust...That's stupid.. I keep doing it too.... Don't buy the cheap one. In the long run it'll either cost you more or you'll never make it right.

My car's not that bad (and it was $4500), but if I could do it all over again I'd buy one for twice that amount with ZERO rust and be far far ahead...

You're better off buying a clean 02 with no motor than one with even one rust bubble ! ;-) Body work and paint is expensive these days, and what you see is generally the tip of the iceberg !

Thanks again for all the info guys, seriously it's been ridiculously helpful.

Just to let you all know, I saw it at a junkyard that sells cars that can sorta/maybe run. And while I did find a bell housing in the trunk, there was a gearshift that was shiftable so I'm not too sure as to what that thing was doing in there, but regardless I'm gonna pass this car up based on your cumulative excellent advice.
Thanks again! Have fun with your cars for me, haha.

I find that the best thing to do is get teh money ready and be patient. Before you know it, you'll find a deal that you're comfortable with.

Impatience got me an overpriced, rusty and bondo'd absolute scam car from a douchebag in Dallas, TX a few years back. I'm still paying off the personal loan that I got for it.

Patience got me my current 108K mile `76 2002 for $1200 + shipping from Kansas. She had a blown head gasket, but everything else was great. A little rust underneath it, but nothing structural.

When I found the shoddy work and huge rust holes under the first car, I wanted to strangle the guy. When I find little bits of rust under the `76, I just smile because I got an otherwise great car for so little.

Keep looking and Good Luck!
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ClayW
1976 Fjord 2002 Sunroof

Project Blog

"Finish the thing, do it right the first time and drive the son of a bitch!"
-Gray Baskerville on hot rod advice

Thanks for the link, I'll definitely be checking them out.