I synched the car at idle position, I jsut checked that the pump was on full throttle so was the butterfly, part of checking the linkages.

I would love the PDF

One side of My aircan is off right now, I didnt think It would make a difference, because wouldnt the butterfly control how much air is allowed in. Of course something is iffy so anything is a possibilty,

Just put on the aircan... helped the surging a bit, however It did not solve the misfiring or sudden jerkyness, during the 2k-3k range

email is custom92000@yahoo.com
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1974 tii "Mr. T"

fiftytakedowns wrote:

I would love the PDF

also available from the tii Register
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Colin K.
Malaga '72 tii

you said now and before how you could not remove the linkage because of fear of breaking something -

Place a 10mm open-end wrench between the linkage rod socket and the ball that your trying to seperate, and lever the wrench to pop
the socket off the ball. ADD oil into the socket to free up the
retaining wire inside the socket which is stuck and preventing you
removing the linkages. Once off lubricate the linkage sockets
with a wheel bearing grease, MOLY G paste, antiseize ,
ANYTHING THAT WILL stay in place and not dry out.
Now adjust the rods.

Your close, but as you now see, only one adjustment out of thousands will determine how your car runs.

Get some better spark plug wires/connectors on there and secure them AWAY from the exhaust manifold


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1976 BMW 2002 #2743711(sorry I sold it 12/25/06)
1986 BMW R65 650cc twin 19k miles
1964 BMW R27 250cc single 15K miles
2002 BMW 325xiTouring 29k miles
1984 MERCEDES-BENZ W123 300D Turbodiesel-188k miles fein-DIESEL

The linkage piece that matters most as far as synchronization is concerned is the short one between the vertical throttle body shaft and the injection pump. The length of the other two affect throttle travel only. It's important that the short link has very little or no slop on the pivot balls. Those spring clips help take up the clearance, but only to a point. Also, make sure the vertical throttle body shaft cup is present at the lower pivot. Mine was gone originally and the pivot ball was quite worn as a result.

The short link is nominally set to 85mm (3.346", or 3 11/32", or halfway between 3 5/16" and 3 3/8") in length. You can't get it perfect because you're limited by the thread pitch and having to orient the sockets 90° from each other, so check the length with a tape measure (use calipers if you can, but most people don't have easy access to those) and see if it's close. If you don't like it, turn one of the sockets one full turn so you can see how much it changes, and adjust until you get it as close as you can.

The pump manual is here (hope this link works):

http://www.thetiiregister.com/phpmyfaq/index.php?sid=201045&lang=en&action=artikel&cat=220444&id=14&artlang=en
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Jerry

ok just spent three hours checking and rechecking the linkage...

The 85 MM waas SPOT on the 289 was 4 mm toolong, however both sides would not tighten anymore, so I did what i could and only got it down to 2 mm (did not bend it)

There is only some slop in the MIddle linkage, from the accelorator pedal to the vertical link, but It only slops IFyou push it backwards PAST where Idle would be, and opposite to the way of the accelerator pedal, throught the throttle movement, it does not shift around whatsoever.

Did A DOUBLE check with the propane tank, and NOTHING.

So, I eliminated Linkage, and ELiminated vacuum leaks.

Should I take off the Warm up transmitter and clean it? I read putting it in boiling water can clean it out, and test it... fully extended seemed like 7mm, but It looked as though it could not extend anymore anyways, (screws were touching)

If I were to take it off, how would I do this, disconnect hoses.. (would I have to bleeed coolant?

what should be my next order of business

ALL HELP appreciated!
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1974 tii "Mr. T"

Once the linkages are set and the cold start system is working correctly, synchronize the linkage per the manual. If you don't have the tools, you can rig up your own.

For the 4mm tuna can pin, get a 4mm drill bit (available from Ace Hardware). A 5/32" drill bit is .001" smaller and will work fine.

For the 5mm injector pump pin, shorten a 5mm drill bit and epoxy it at right angles to a piece of stiff wire (coat hanger size). You'll have to cut the drill bit with a grinder or break it off in a vise, it's too hard for a hack saw or wire cutters.

Once you have your "tool kit" prepared, follow the synchronization instructions in the tuning manual at tiiregister.com. Let us know how it turns out.

If it still doesn't run well, there's more you can do that will get you by until you've saved up for the dreaded pump rebuild. I'm too cheap to get the rebuild, so here's how I got mine drivable:

I learned of this procedure from an old "Shade Tree Topics" article written by Jim Rowe and Jim Blanton. I don't know what publication it came from, my copy has no way of telling that.

It involves deliberately setting the cam in the tuna can to a different position from the factory setting. By adjusting the tuna can mixture screw at idle, you can tell when you've got it pretty close by how the engine runs. Too lean, the engine speed surges - too rich, it runs crappy. Set the mixture screw closer to lean so it runs well.

Adjust the cam position by installing the 5mm pin tool in the pump body to lockup the linkage, loosen the vertical shaft clamp screw(s) (some cars have 1 clamp screw, some have 2), and adjust the cam in small increments using the idle screw as an adjustable stop. Remove the 5mm pin after each cam adjustment. Note taking is a good idea.

Set the mixture at low speed, noting the mixture screw position. I use 1500 rpm. Using the idle speed screw, run the engine speed to 3500 rpm or so and repeat the idle mixture adjustment. The trick is to get the cam positioned so that the "proper" mixture screw setting is the same at low and at high speed. Keep track of the number and direction of turns of the mixture screw that are needed to set mixture for various cam positions. After the first cam adjustment you can tell if you're moving the cam in the right direction or not. Keep changing the cam position in small increments until you get the cam positioned so the mixture screw is set the same at low and high speed. I usually use 1500 rpm and 3500 rpm. Then tighten everything down and set the idle speed.

You should notice quite a difference in how the car runs. I get 20-21 mpg in strictly in-town driving and 25 - 26 freeway. Prior to the adjustment, in town mileage was about 16. I'm pretty sure the car still isn't running as well as it could be, but it's quite tolerable. My next step would be to get the injectors checked out, then the injection pump itself.

I think that if your f.i. system needs to be set a significant amount differently from the factory settings, the mechanical injection parts probably could use some professional attention.
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Jerry

VIOLA!!!

Okay So after re adjustment and adjustment again IT came as an epiphany!

I correctly set the linkages the first, second, and third time, and the butterfly before the linkages

But What I was realizing was that it was running to lean int he low RPMS...

then I was like HMM how can I adjust the butterfly so that it will run rich throughout the entire throttle.

THen I just realized I had to set the butterfly AGAIN, bEHIND the 4 mm drill bit, JUST over the whole... The drill bitcaused it to be lean through the entire throttle, now it doesnt sputter or jerk during partial throttle.

thats a difference between 2 manuals... the TII manual said to go over the whole, while the resto guide said right to the drillbit.


SO THROTTLE PROBLEM IS FIXXXXXXXED!!!

..............BUT NOW............


the car takes a little while to start.... starts up then slowly revs down to a stall, unless i give it some gas for a second... only takes like 30 seconds for to idle properly... but It still means that something is going on...

ALSO.... after cruising for a while... car will rev lower than idle, and sputter for a second, then bounce up to idle again...not that bad, but im curious...

And the car doesnt seem as fast at full throttle, but it is MUCh more responsive at partial throttle.... normal, or am I missing something?
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1974 tii "Mr. T"

the car takes a little while to start.... starts up then slowly revs down to a stall, unless i give it some gas for a second... only takes like 30 seconds for to idle properly... but It still means that something is going on...

It sounds like your warmup transmitter is misadjusted or not working properly.

ALSO.... after cruising for a while... car will rev lower than idle, and sputter for a second, then bounce up to idle again...not that bad, but im curious...

Idle mixture is a bit lean.

And the car doesnt seem as fast at full throttle, but it is MUCh more responsive at partial throttle.... normal, or am I missing something?

Maybe ignition or valve clearance related. Advance weights working well? If your timing mark jumps around a bit, the distributor needs attention. Is it a tii distributor? Follow the steps in the Fuel Injection Manual.

There's something out of wack within your injection pump or with the injector(s), most likely. The best you can hope for is "drivable" until that is addressed. With the "new" cam settings you're pump and engine are a bit out of synch.
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Jerry