OK this is going to be a LONG reply but hey I took the time to do this so you better read :-)
Don't mind CD - he can come off harsh but he extremely knowlegable and has access to dealer info - and he's owned & worked on our cars for possibly longer than you have been alive...
I think that you got yourself a good deal. I am in Boston so it's hard to find a rust free car. Some will come down on the interior but it's unique so don't worry about it. Also... LOL... that yellow air cleaner adds 5hp just because it's yellow! Don't fall into that trap of MUST HAVe WEBER 32/36!!! - I like my single bbl solex on my 71 better than my weber 32/36 on the 74 I owned. Just get it running and drive it for a while before you start thinking about performance upgrades. Focus on safety first, get your manuals and books, do LOTS of searching and research on the internet and buy the 2002 Restoration guide (read it every night before bed for a week) and you'll be on track. Your car has some problems & some rust and I'm sure there is more under that somewhat shotty respray but you could be plesantly suprised... Here goes nothing... I stole your pictures and did some editing to make things easier...
This makes me feel like your car has never been hit. The curved circles on the sides of the radiator will usually be bent up and mangled if the car has ever rear-ended someone. They look really good... (I like red... too bad they painted it... :-( ) The rust in the circle by the left front blinker speaks for itself - you'll want to get that taken care of sooner or later. Don't worry about it - it is common and you can still get new or used fenders cheap if you wait for the right time. I'd check under the passenger side though - could be something that you could put a stop to before it gets out of hand. Pull the blinker(Carefully) and take a look under there. Leave the driver's side for now - it will just fall apart if you try to take it apart...
Check out your rear window gasket. it's going to be REALLY brittle, probably leak in the rain and need replacing. You can tell from the browned lock strip that has shrunk back. Also you will probably notice it's cracked and split up top and down bottom... Eventually - not needed ASAP but something to do soon as well. Rust can lurke under the rear corners.
GOOD NEWS!!! rear shock towers look A-OK. When you get the time pull the back seat and check from the inside. They can go from the inside too but usually if they are that clean out back they should be pretty solid from the inside too. Nice job getting clean towers. more evidence of a shotty paint job is the green circles by the trunk gasket (paint chipping off) and by the rear window - I wonder what that line is... I hope not a bondo line under paint...
This picture is interesting. You should have verticle holes where the red lines are that the front bumper mounts go into. Does the PO have the bumper with the car (hopefully)? Also I don't see tow hooks (where the circles are).. they should stick out from the ends of the subframe just under the valance - strange... possibly just the light. That front valance (the black part) usually rots out pretty badly. It's possible that it has been repaired or that the car had hit something due to the lack of tow loops, bumepr mount holes and the nice front valance but it will take more inspection. Climb underneath and look for the back side of the holes. Look on the web for photos of what I mean by bumper mount holes. If that is all clean metal up there then you have another very good aspect of the car.
The arrow points to the subframe carrier mounts. Judging by your front strut tower mounts I'd say that you'll want to replace your carrier mounts ASAP as well... They are the can looking things that are oversprayed...
Look for rust under the paint where the circles are. more up front in the wheel well than in the rear. that area above and around the carrier mounts and in the rocker (the black panel that runs under the door) are known for getting really rusty. Yours looks good - but it could be paper thin bondo... Only jack the car up and place jack stands on the subframes and avoid the front frame rails until you do more inspection.
Look for rust under the gas pedal. Don't pull it up off the balls - it may not go back on... look from underneath for rust along the frame rail and in the pedal box. Also look right below the hood latch where the floor meets the kick panel on the side (where a left foot dead pedal would go). There is usually rust here...
Look for bubbles or little rust spots along the base of the rear window under the open/close latch. They all tend to go here and if you have a respray it may bubble up soon. Also look for rust along that rocker panel under the door. they go all the time and are always neglected. yours could be solid but you won't know until you get in there and start digging. Start up by the front fender and work your way back. Look for bondo, fiberglass or any holes. New rockers are pretty cheap but it's a BIG job. - save for later - just assess the situation and know for now.
Look at the base of the window gasket, under the blinkers and at that front valance for rust.
#1 - you have a header under there... SCORE! that's a cool little add on. Not sure what kind it is... Look at where the 4 tubes come together (by the collector) and check for a stamp like Ansa, Stahl, etc. and also measure the primary tubes and post that up. See the cracks in the strut bearings??? that is very bad... just don't drive it a long distance... they are about $30 each and should be replaced ASAP...
Anyone know what those little hoels are for? I thought washer nozzle holes but they are somewhere else...
notice the tape or bulge in the wire going from your coil to the distributor? That's bad and should probably be replaced unless the picture just looks funny... Also look under the carb at the fuel pump (circled)... looks like there are no fuel lines hooked up from the fuel pump to the carb or the fuel line (from the tank) to the pump... It looks really clean and really stock under there. Might be a good time to replace the ignition system with stock points, condensor, replace with new BMW coil and replace plugs and wires... Bet it would fire right up... Pull the valve cover (the 8 or so bolts on top) and take some pictures of the rockers and cam. We'll be able to tell more about the motor that way. You could have a cam under there with that header...
Hope this helped... Welcome to the maddness.... they are fun little cars and if you know how to turn a wrench then you'll be all set. I'd take CD's advice and DO NOT SELL YOUR e36... Once you start digging into this you'll be happy to have reliable transportation through the initial refreshening process that this car will need.... Also look at the flexable brake lines - they tend to bulge up and be dangerous. Stock replacements are cheap - under $50 for the car while SS braided lines are ~$100 for the car.... Good luck!!!
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BMW-Yachtsport
'07 Accord DD
'83 e21 - DD (work in progress)
2574356 - sleeping in need of restoration
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