Thanks for the comments. I didn't realize that moving the alternator to the rear diff would make that much of a difference. Obviously as you pointed out not a streetable mod :) So, here is the progress so far. I've installed the bock off plate and everything seems to be working nicely. I currently have about 1.5" to the radiator core from the block off plate and about 1" to the crank shaft pulley. Now all I have to do is plumb it up. Anyone know how to get a hold of Tommy? I wish you could PM in here. Here are some pics.



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- Jonathan

Just curious. Have you looked into belt driven water pumps mounted on the side of the block?
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The only belt driven water pumps I have found are electric motors which drive your current water pump. Is this what you are talking about? This wouldn't really get around the problem I was having with water pump clearance as you need the bearing attached. I plan on mounting my new water pump where my battery used to be, or possibly up by my horns. I like the idea of cleaning up the engine compartment.
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- Jonathan

No no - I didn't say moving alternator and changing water pump would make that much. They were just things that were also changed. I don't even remember but you can read it from my blog "Goodfellas project". You also see my water pump solution, I just used electric motor to run the original pump.

Your solution looks nice. If you can still mount the pump so that the original routing of water flow will stay the same I'm quite sure it will work. Or are you leawing thermostat out an use only the electric controller? Maybe that works too.

You can mail me - tomi.heinonen(at)konecranes dot com

Tommy
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Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

So I think I've sorted our all of my connections with exception to the intake manifold coolant return hose (the second hose that connects to the water pump) I cant just hook it up because I will be pushing water into it now that my water pump is not centrally located between the two hoses. I'm thinking of routing it back up to the temp manifold. Anyone see any problems with that? Thanks in advance.
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- Jonathan

I received my Davies Craig electric water pump today. It's surprisingly small. I plan on mounting behind the passenger side front grille right next to the horn. I've decided to get rid of the Stock thermostat as the electronic controller has a remote thermocouple that I will mount near the coolant return hose. I plan on mounting everything up on saturday. Hopefully have it running by the Sunday. Here are some pics.






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- Jonathan

It's taken me a while to get some time to get under the hood to wrap this up but i found a break in the weather yesterday. The plumbing was by far the most difficult part of this project, which was to be expected.

This is a picture of the hose I used for the plumbing. It was purchased at parts plus for $16. with this hose you should be able to make the 2 hoses you need that your bimmer can't provide. cut it in half and you are golden. Part number 71320


In order to keep the thermastat I needed to make a mod to it. I needed
to change the direction of flow from the heading to the engine to heading
out the rear of the nose clip. In order to do that i had to grind off the 45 degree bend at the top of the thermastat. This is really the only part about
the whole build i'm crossing my fingers on.

Plenty of room between the horn and the headlight for the new waterpump

Holes were drilled with a 1 7/8" holesaw, por15 on the open wound
then put a grommit in each hole






The final thing to do was to plug the 2nd intake hole on my old waterpump as well as my manafold water outlet. I took the old hose cut 2 inches out of the middle and inserted alluminum plugs at the ends. This will not be an issue when I megasquirt. more photos to come...
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- Jonathan

with the pump control why do you still need the thermostat?

seams redundant?

is that how intructions say it should be?
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68' 1602
98' ///M3 Sedan

88' ///M3 Sold *
06' ///M3 Competition Pkg Sold *

http://www.bmw1602.com/

The instructions suggest you dump the thermostat. But they are assuming you have a standard internal thermostat. Since the M10 engine is designed to always have water running through it, I'm fearful of hotspots. So I did not have the nerve to cut the thermostat out of the equation...yet. I did rig the pump up in a way where i could pull the thermostat out once everything is up and running. This way the plumbing is basically exactly how it was with the manual pump. The plumbing was a bit simpler with the thermostat in as well. With all the projects I'm taking on at once with this car, simpler is better. Now I just need to find a clever place to stick the thermocouple.

(ADDED)
So, I've been doing more reading before I finalized this project. I have come to this conclusion via info on the Davies Craig site and installation instructions. If you plan to dump the thermostat you need to obviously block off the bypass return hose. This can only be done with the controller. If you do not want to use the controller you can leave the thermostat in place (as I did) and just use the thermostat. This seems really obvious when I when I finished typing this, but everything was confirmed by digging through the literature. Now, I probably would not have purchased the controller if it weren't included in the EBay auction for free. So what I now plan to do is run the water pump without the controller and use the controller for my fan which uses the exact same motor. I can think of situations where I would like my fan to not be running, but I'm pretty set on a steady flow of water throgh my engine. If anyone reads this and see's red flags please respond. I'm pretty new to this.
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- Jonathan

So, after several months of delays I have finally finished my coolant project. I'm very very happy with the result. I finally decided to dump the thermostat and block off the heater bypass hose so water is constantly flowing through the radiator at a steady rate. Instead of connecting the electronic controller to the water pump i've decided to connect it to my new 12" hayden fan. I needed to put a resistor in line with the thermocouple in order to drop the temp of the controller, but the result is awesome. Very quite running machine. The beauty of the controller is that I can set the engine temp to whatever i want and it stays rock steady, wether it be mid winter or mid summer. I also relocated the battery with parts form an 2001 318. I'm happy with the clean looking distribution box. My next project is to install the Crane 3000 electronic ignition. I cant imagine my car running any smoother than it is, but i suppose there is always room to grow. Thanks for the help and input on this. The total cost ended up being $458. Seems like a lot but that includes the new ireland radiator and the ebay sourced Davies water-pump and fan. so actually not too bad. Well worth it.
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- Jonathan