1a. it is pretty simple, just a piece of flat aluminum with a slight bend that attaches to the two water pump bolts. The bend just lines up the sensor with the center of the wheel. It is pretty slight, just a few degrees. Bracket is 1/8" aluminum. There is a pic below which shows it pretty good.
1b. See below.
2. Yep, it runs much better. Much better/smoother performance, but especially at idle, and you can use the ignition map shape to help stabilize the idle speed. Better part throttle cruise - can jack in much more advance to eliminate 'trailer-hitching' and get waaay better highway mileage. I'm getting about 30MPG at 75 MPH now. And much more accurate and stable timing across the board, but especially at high RPM. I haven't done any high RPM performance measurement to quanitify power gains, but it sure feels better.
The COP coils are not required to get these benefits, the ford coilpack will give you all of this. I did the COP thing for the cool factor, and because I want to play with some advanced ignition ideas in the future.
*Wheel fabrication process*
I used a EDIS wheel from an early '90s Ford Escort with the 1.9L SPFI engine. I got the entire front pulley from the junkyard. The toothed wheel is the largest diameter part. I put it in a large vise so it was only supported by the toothed wheel at the top of the vise. Then I tapped the center part a few times with a hammer and it came right off.
I bead blasted the 2002 front pulley to get it good and clean, then made a 'dam' from duct tape around the outside diameter of the big front-most (on the engine) groove.
Fill the area around the middle groove with J.B. weld, let it harden, remove tape:
Chuck it up in your neighbor's lathe and turn it down to the EDIS toothed wheel inner diameter, centered over the middle '02 pulley groove. There's a drawing on the megasquirt site of the EDIS wheel dimensions somewhere. J.B. weld machines like butter, any small machine shop can do this for you if you don't know someone with a lathe. It machines so easy, I'm sure a better MacGyver than I can figure out a way to do it without a lathe.
Wheel and pulley ready for assembly:
And assembled:
I buttered up the mounting area with some more JB weld, and assembled the toothed wheel. Then I added another fillet of JB weld on the 'back' side of the pulley.
And mounted to the engine:
The pulley was painted before assembling it to the car for good. I also added timing marks to the pulley for TDC, since my front cover has a pointer on it still.
HTH,
Tim
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1973 '02 w/megasquirt-II and COP EDIS ignition
http://www.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002.html