Original tii fuel pumps are at least 33 years old and either failing in our 2002s or ready to fail. Rebuilt pumps are proving to be questionable as they are installed in our cars. However, Bosch now has new tii fuel pumps available for over $400.00.

With rebuilt pumps being a crap shoot, new tii pumps pricey, there are at two other options a tii owner can consider when the old pump quits pumping.

Both options violate the originality or the car, the tii owner loses that familiar whir of the original pump but may gain some dependability.

Keith Kreeger outlines the installation of the e-28 pump installation. He uses it on Stella and is happy with the performance.

Here is the link to his well written and documented process to install the e-28 pump.

http://www.my2002tii.com/tii-fuel-pump_how-to.htm

The other option that reportedly works and I am trying on P2, the new little yellow car, is the in-tank pump from an e-30. The e-30 pump is a drop in pump and sender that fits into the sender hole of a tii tank. The advantages are reduced cost, newer dependable technology, less noise, all under-body components are removed and it is relatively simple to convert.
May 2008 update - the yellow car is running fine with this set-up.


e-30 fuel pump/sender installation tips:


On the left is the stock tii fuel sender.

On the right is the e-30 pump (edit - Thanks Kris) 16 14 1 179 992, the sender 16 14 1 152 266, the o-ring between the sender and the pump 16 12 1 150 391 and the O-RING that goes between the tank and the sender/pump unit 16 11 1 744 369. All of these components now cost about $400. Close to just the replacement cost of a tii pump. But if you have to replace the tii fuel level sender and the bracket/cannister, the original set-up obviously costs more. Rarely do all three original components need to be replaced at the same time I admit. You need to make the decision on which of the three options you want to go with.



The e-30 unit replaces the tii bracket, expansion tank 16 12 1 111 591, the fuel pump 16 12 1 107 414 and the sending unit 62 16 1 354 267.
(About $600 if you order all three parts)


Just for reference - these are the reading I get for my tii sender when full and empty. These readings are needed when diagnosing a faulty fuel reading.



The e-30 pump and sender must be separated when installing into the tii tank. The e-30 pump will fit through the opening but wiggling the filter is tedious. Properly align the o-ring and tighten the pump in your favorite manner.


Insert the sender into the pump and tighten the 4 M5 nuts. You need to order these if you do not have them in your stash.



The harness for a e-30 makes wiring simple. All you need is the part that connects to the tank and enough of a tail to splice into the tii wiring.

On the e-30 unit, the power to the pump and the wires to the fuel gauge on the dash are accessible on top of the e-30 unit.

On the e-30 harness there are five wires, two larger gauge and three smaller gauge wires. The larger go to the pump and the smaller to the sender. You only use two of the smaller gauge wires for the American tii unless you want to get creative and wire in a low fuel warning light. (some Euro models have the low fuel light option that lights up the brake light on a low fuel condition)

Pump wiring:
Bring the wiring from the bottom of the car that did go to the original tii pump into the trunk. Disconnect it in a manner in case you do want to go back to the original set up. You should have a green white and a brown wire. Green white being the power and brown is always a ground.

Splice the two wires from the pump from the tii to the larger wires on the e-30 harness, brown to brown and the green-white to large green wire.

Now, you need to do a little electrical testing to determine which wires go where. You need to identify the ground on the sender, the connection to the fuel sending unit and the connection to the low fuel light indicator. I think the connection to the left (looking into the connection) is ground, the middle on to the fuel level sending unit and the right to the idiot light. Now with the harness, use a n OHM gauge to determine which connection on the plug is connected to the wire. Ground is the brown wire and I believe both other wires are brown with a green tracer. Determine which one is which and use the one to the middle connection.

Make those connections with your favorite method, solder, butt connections, spade tips. Secure and protect with tape and hook up the harness.

The fuel supply line now runs from the e-30 pump, through the hole in the support frame to the steel line. You can use the smaller fuel supply line (8x13 or 8x12 16 12 1 108 711 that is suitable for fuel injection) making the passage through that hole much easier. (The picture shows the supply hose not having a clamp, this picture was taken before I installed the clamp. It does need a clamp.

The return line maintains the stock set-up. Plastic return line to the smaller of the two bibs on the pick-up unit.


Let's hope it works, I will report back later. I posted this FAQ in the UNDER CONTRUCTION area and hope to gain some feedback from others who have tried a similar solution.

2 June 2008 UPDATE
I have ran P2 with this set-up with only a slight blip, the electrical connection to the pump loosened twice. I now have that solved.

The rest of the set up is performing well, good pressure, the level reading seems to be the same as the stock unit.

459
_________________
"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."
1972 2000tii Touring #3422489
1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680
FAQ member #5


Last edited by BillWilliams on 11-13-11 03:56; edited 9 times in total