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Frame Rail Repair

Frame Rail Repair

A while back I found a lot of rust in my drivers side frame rail. It seems that at some point in its life the car had a brake fluid leak around the master cylinder or reservoir area. The fluid entered the frame rail from the top and the rust process began.

The frame rails for our beloved cars are still available, but at around $300 each. Or you can find some solid ones of the cars that were crashed or rusted out in other areas. The other option is making a patch as described in this article.

The procedure is not too complicated if you know how to use a grinder and a welder. A little muscle is required to bend the metal and swing the BFH. Required Materials:

  • 16 to 20 gauge sheet metal
  • Cardboard
  • Undercoat Paint
  • Rust Neutralizer

 

Required Equipment:

  • Air hose or compressed air in a can
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Grinder
  • Welder
  • Vise
  • Angle Iron x2
  • 2x6 Piece of wood
  • Clamp
  • BFH*
  • Small Hammer
  • Metal Sheers

 

Optional Equipment:

  • Plasma Cutter
  • Second Pair of Hands

 

 

Frame Preparation

Clean the frame rail from most of the rust and undercoat paint by using the grinder. Make sure to wear eye protection. Find out how far your rust goes. If rust extended to the reinforced section above the front subframe patching the frame might not be a good solution and a replacement frame rail should be in order. After you are done grinding and polishing hit the frame with a hammer a couple times to loosen the rust and dirt inside. Not too hard, you don’t want to bend it. Get an a air hose and blow the dust out of the rail. When it nice and clean spray the frame with rust neutralizer. Try to get some inside the frame too. If the holes in it are as big as they were in mine, you should have no problems doing it.

Template

While the neutralizer is drying you can start on the patch. Grab a piece of cardboard, a pencil and a pair of scissors and start cutting. The plan is for you to make a patch out of cardboard that will look exactly like the one you’ll be making out of that sheet of metal.

 

Patch

Once the template is complete and you are satisfied with the fit it's time to move on to the fun portion of this program. Trace the template on the metal and cut it out. Make sure you are tracing all the cuts and the bends on the inside. This way you won't get confused later on.

 

Place the future patch in the vise at the bend line between two pieces of angle iron. Remember which way it needs to be bent and use the BFH* and a 2x6 pound it to correct shape. Do one bend at a time. It will not be perfect but it will be pretty good for a banged up job. Make sure to have long enough cuts to allow for a good 3D bend.

 

Once you are finished with the patch place it on the frame rail and with a help of another person finish the bends for an almost perfect fit.

   

Weld the patch in its place. Do a couple tack welds first. This will allow you to bang it a little more into a better fit. Remember, the better it fits the stronger your frame rail will be. After the tack welds are done and the fit is good finish welding the rest of the seams.

 

Let it cool and spray with the undercoat. You are done! Give your helper a hi-five and another beer. Grab one for yourself.

 

*BFH = Big Fucking Hammer

Thanks to Rob Torres, Jr. of 2002 Haus., who did all the actual work on this frame rail.

If you have any questions, feel free to post them to the Message Board!

 

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Edited by steve k.


steve k.
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A while back I found a lot of rust in my drivers side frame rail. It seems that at some point in its life the car had a brake fluid leak around the master cylinder or reservoir area. The fluid entered the frame rail from the top and the rust process began.

The frame rails for our beloved cars are still available, but at around $300 each. Or you can find some solid ones of the cars that were crashed or rusted out in other areas. The other option is making a patch as described in this article.

The procedure is not too complicated if you know how to use a grinder and a welder. A little muscle is required to bend the metal and swing the BFH. Required Materials:

  • 16 to 20 gauge sheet metal
  • Cardboard
  • Undercoat Paint
  • Rust Neutralizer

 

Required Equipment:

  • Air hose or compressed air in a can
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Grinder
  • Welder
  • Vise
  • Angle Iron x2
  • 2x6 Piece of wood
  • Clamp
  • BFH*
  • Small Hammer
  • Metal Sheers

 

Optional Equipment:

  • Plasma Cutter
  • Second Pair of Hands

 

 

Frame Preparation

Clean the frame rail from most of the rust and undercoat paint by using the grinder. Make sure to wear eye protection. Find out how far your rust goes. If rust extended to the reinforced section above the front subframe patching the frame might not be a good solution and a replacement frame rail should be in order. After you are done grinding and polishing hit the frame with a hammer a couple times to loosen the rust and dirt inside. Not too hard, you don’t want to bend it. Get an a air hose and blow the dust out of the rail. When it nice and clean spray the frame with rust neutralizer. Try to get some inside the frame too. If the holes in it are as big as they were in mine, you should have no problems doing it.

Template

While the neutralizer is drying you can start on the patch. Grab a piece of cardboard, a pencil and a pair of scissors and start cutting. The plan is for you to make a patch out of cardboard that will look exactly like the one you’ll be making out of that sheet of metal.

 

Patch

Once the template is complete and you are satisfied with the fit it's time to move on to the fun portion of this program. Trace the template on the metal and cut it out. Make sure you are tracing all the cuts and the bends on the inside. This way you won't get confused later on.

 

Place the future patch in the vise at the bend line between two pieces of angle iron. Remember which way it needs to be bent and use the BFH* and a 2x6 pound it to correct shape. Do one bend at a time. It will not be perfect but it will be pretty good for a banged up job. Make sure to have long enough cuts to allow for a good 3D bend.

 

Once you are finished with the patch place it on the frame rail and with a help of another person finish the bends for an almost perfect fit.

   

Weld the patch in its place. Do a couple tack welds first. This will allow you to bang it a little more into a better fit. Remember, the better it fits the stronger your frame rail will be. After the tack welds are done and the fit is good finish welding the rest of the seams.

 

Let it cool and spray with the undercoat. You are done! Give your helper a hi-five and another beer. Grab one for yourself.

 

*BFH = Big Fucking Hammer

Thanks to Rob Torres, Jr. of 2002 Haus., who did all the actual work on this frame rail.

If you have any questions, feel free to post them to the Message Board!

 


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I just had that sad moment the other day. I rented a neighbors garage 8 years ago to have a spot to assemble my 2002. the car sat Dry inside untouched, except where I dinged the nose cramming my dirtbike past it. The car was very rust free when stored. I go in the other day to pull it out. I notice a slight discoloration in my drivers rail and my clutch is unresponsive, leaking clutch master. It looks perfect just a hint of rust at the seam. I know better, and squeeze the rail between thumb and forefinger. The rail crumples. If you have not pulled up the tar and inspected your floor pan, I recommend it. Welding with the tar above the rail will be a mess and you will likely encounter some more rust. I am currently trying to sort, do I just patch the compromised area or go with a section of rail that I have? I'll post what I come up with. Do you have some pics of what you are up against? Lisa has some photos of her restoration. They are helpful. The strength of the rail comes from the boxing of the sheet metal. To make the edge of the rail on the rocker panel side is some work. The frame rail meets the inner fender. That will be tight to weld in. I'm curious to see how you tackle it. I am no authority on this subject. I did put a rail in a car 15 years ago. The floor pan was also shot on that car allowing more access to weld. Surprisingly the floor pan in my current car is very good? I almost wish it was worse I would just cut it out then weld in the rail. I would be grateful to hear how others tackled this issue.

Thanks

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