• Todd2002
      Hi All,
      This is my first post to this forum and first up, I'd like to thank all those that have come before me and shared their tips and tricks for everyone.
      After recently completing the Girling Caliper/ Vented Rotor front brake upgrade to my 74' 2002, I decided to tackle the rear brakes as the shoes were pretty worn and I was at maximum adjustment. I'd read about the fun and games with getting that lower "M" shaped spring back on without losing an eye in the process and was a bit sceptical about tackling it myself! I scoured the internet (including this forum) and couldn't really find a super clear explanation so I set about trying to figure one out. I think I've come up with a pretty safe and easy way to get those springs on and I wanted to share what I learned on here. I actually took a lot of video of the job which I'll turn into a YouTube clip when I get a chance but until then, here is the basic explanation of what I did.
       
      Tools required:
      Large flat blade screw driver
      3 x G clamps
      Needle (long nose) Vice Grip pliers
      40cm long piece of wood (about 4-5cm wide)
      small block of wood (3 x 3cm) See pic.
       
      Once you've removed the old shoes and cleaned up the drum backing plate, wheel cylinder, hub etc. Check everything is in good shape and the cylinder moves freely and the rubber seals are intact. Release both 10mm nuts on the handbrake cables at handbrake inside car. Turn the 17mm adjusting nuts on rear of backing plate to allow for shoes to be as close to the centre hub as possible.
      Install new shoes by connecting the top spring between the shoes, attach the handbrake cable and position ends of shoes in the vertical slots in the wheel cylinder. Its a good idea to take a photo of the brake layout BEFORE removing the old shoes! Once the shoes and top spring are all in position, clamp the long piece of wood across the top of the brakes (covering the wheel cylinder) to the backing plate. This will hold the shoes in position while you're trying to manhandle the bottom spring on. 
       
      Here comes the tricky bit....
       
      Take the big spring and position the LEFT hand end into the hole on the lower left shoe and position the middle of the spring in BEHIND the small central plate. Hold this in position while you clamp the small block of wood over the left hand end of the spring to secure this end in the shoe (see pic). Once the spring is firmly clamped in place, take the screwdriver in your left hand and poke it up behind the hub and onto the top of the small central plate and rest it on the spring. The idea is to apply upward pressure on the screwdriver to firmly hold the middle of the spring from jumping out from behind the central plate. (I used my foot to hold the screwdriver which then freed up both hands to work the Vice Grips)
       
      Be strong...!
       
      Set the Vice Grips as tight as you can get them on the RH end of the spring which is kind of tucked in behind the right shoe at this point. You should be able to get a grip on the lower "U" part of the spring and then gently (and carefully) pull the spring out over the shoe and downwards until it drops into the hole. BINGO! Wasn't that hard was it!
       
      Remove all the clamps and wood etc and check if everything seems to be in position. Slip drums back on and adjust the 17mm nuts on the back of the backing plate until drag is felt, then back it off a bit.
      Road test the car and repeat the brake adjustment. Don't forget to do the handbrake!
       
      I hope this info has helped and look out for the YouTube tutorial in the next few weeks.
      Cheers
      Evan
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      I just ordered a new set of Panasport z-light sport 15x6 wheels for my 1972 2002tii.  Apparently, they don't come with lug nuts, so I need to find some that will work.  I didn't order the ones from Panasport because of the price. Does anyone here know if this will work?  

       

      http://amzn.to/1Z4g54E

       

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    1. So last weekend I tackled the radiator removal. Easy peasy and only 4 bolts, after pulling the hoses. Radiator looks nice and clean but surprisingly there's a radiator shop nearby so I'll be taking it over for an evaluation and maybe a re-core. After that I went after the A/C condenser and fan. I'm going A/C delete on the car anyway so out it came. FYI you have to disconnect the fan from the condenser to get them out, but also, no problem. For those who are counting, they weighed 10.5 lbs together.

       

      After that I went after the gas tank with a Rube Goldberg siphon. Worked like a charm and I got 2 1/2 gallons out of pretty nice gas for the Landcruiser. I then went after the electrical and fuel lines, labeling as I went because, well, my memory and spatial skills are not exactly sharp. The gas tank bolts were quite easy except for (of course!) one, which snapped. Theres's always one. I noticed my immersion tube was plugged by a PO, and posted a WTF on the forum, but no one seems to know why they did this. Pic below? Anyone?

       

      Gas tank pulled fairly easily, although I did have to remove the rubber filler neck to get it past that. Another 2 gallons remained in the tank, which I poured into a bucket along with a slight amount of sediment. I'll be bringing the tank with me to the radiator shop for a clean and seal job, then paint it up after I get it back.

       

      Next was the glass, front and rear windshields. After about an hour and going through 2 razor blades and getting them loosened up, I called a buddy over and we gave them a try. I have to say I was nervous, as it's fairly common in the Porsche world for these things to break. But I was careful, really careful, and made sure they were nice and loose before we gave them a try. OUT THEY CAME! They don't weigh much, so up they went (after getting the bosses approval) upstairs and out of the way for long term safe keeping.

       

      After it was all over I pulled the gauge cluster and some wiring etc and looped them together to get them out of the way for paint. Next up is the engine and subframe, which should take me a few weekends. I'm new at this stuff, so I'm going s l o w l y !

       

      Some progress pix.

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    2. MildSeven
      Latest Entry
      Day ~49 – Few little things and a Paint update (2016-05-23)


      Struts

      I removed the struts from the pit arms, I noticed that on the driver’s side 2 of 3 oem safety bolts had been replaced with standard bolts, so I ordered some. I painted the struts with some of the leftover POR15 I had. I gave it the usual treatment (grind, degrease, metal etch, por 15 coating).

      27167583386_98e84c31ae.jpg

      I couldn’t’ find safety wire locally (without using too much effort), but I did notice that Canadian tire sells stainless steal wire for “Hare trapping,” it does the trick. It was my first time “doing” safety wire. I used standard pliers, didn’t want to waste cash on those specialty pliers for a 1 time use.

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      I (re-)realized that 1 of the 2 Track Rod’s studs, the one which connects to the trailing arm, wiggles. So I got online to quickly ordered a new one, should be delivered this week but I’m in no rush with the front sub frame.

      Brakes

      Since the brake were off the car, I decided that I might as well paint the callipers. I didn’t want them to stand out, so I went with black. I used VHT brake calliper spray paint. I had some left over so, I gave a shot to the rear drums.

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      I also grinded down the brake brackets, used the metal etch and since I was out of POR15 I used some anti-rust spray paint.

      27105051242_6c107b1230.jpg


      Velocity Stacks

      The custom velocity stack “manifolds” were only tack welded. Given they’re tight proximity to their mounting studs/nuts it would be difficult to weld around them without impeding the studs/nuts. I bought a Weber carburetor synchronizer and I feared without the velocity stacks being fully sealed I would receive a false reading. I used some Permatex “Steel Weld” to seal the cracks, it’s similar to JB Weld.

      Here’s a before & after
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      Preppin’ Stuff
      I prepared an old patio table which I purposely didn’t throw out last year to spread parts on for the rebuild. I assembled some of the parts I had previously refreshed (loosely) and tidied up the space.

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      The Big Day (Monday May 23rd, 2016)

      The shell was finally ready to be picked up. I had previously used Burstall towing to deliver the car to the paint shop, for free (but I gave the driver a $20 tip and dropped off a bottle of Scotch for Mike Burstall to say “thanks”) plus I was didn’t want to use another of my father-in-laws “favours.” Frank from the bodyshop told me he had a guy who could do it for $90, it’s a long drive from Montreal North to Dorval. The tow truck driver was nice and the price was right. I’d recommend them to anyone who needs towing services (Remorquage Teo 514-968-6213).

      I’m happy with the paint. I will go pick up the hood and trunk lid once they’re ready, not too soon I hope.

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      I starting washing the dust off the floor pan in preparation for the Dynamat (I went with Dynamat “light” because I want to keep the weight of this little guy). My son decided he was not going to be napping and I had to go “play” with him, so no work was done yesterday.

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      Next steps, applying the dynamat + laying down the wiring.